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Twisted Pear Superior quality electronic kits

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Old 15th October 2018, 09:21 PM   #801
itsikhefez is offline itsikhefez  United States
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Introducing the Buffalo III-SE-Pro 9028/9038
Originally Posted by barrows View Post
I prefer to use connection scheme number 2 above, this conforms with AES guidelines for wiring "balanced" connections, and I wire all my components this way. Keep the pin 1 to chassis connection as short as possible. I run a short wire from ground of the Mercury to the chassis, and make sure that all chassis panels are electrically continuous, which may require removing some anodizing or paint. Essentially this scheme assumes that your XLR cable is wired "correctly", that is with a twisted pair (or perhaps quad) for pins 2, and 3, and that pin 1 is connected to a full coverage braided shield, ideally with no drain wire. Here is a great paper on grounding, differential signaling, and balanced connections from Bruno Putzeys
Thanks alot Barrows, this is exactly what I was looking for.
I hooked up my XLR cables a while ago. I used Mogami 2534, and believe I combined 2x clear to pin (2), 2x blue to pin (3), and shield to pin (1).
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Old 15th October 2018, 09:42 PM   #802
bkdog is offline bkdog
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: in a house
Introducing the Buffalo III-SE-Pro 9028/9038
Sounds good! (sic) That Mogami cable is quad star with is worth the extra in my experience, although I prefer the Canare equivalent. As well as the excellent article by Bruno Butzeys that Barrows pointed you to, there's an excellent article on the Rane site on the Pin 1 Problem, and an equally excellent article on the Linear Audio site about how the pin 1 to chassis fix has corner cases that still allow problems. In practice, I have found the advice in the Race article to work in all cases so far.
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