Thanx Russ.
I already guessed that getting to root cause of this was a bit ambitious
For now I've added 4% more output to the right channel by changing the balance in the Windows volume settings.
Correcting the issue this way doesn't feel quite right (because it's an hardware issue) but it's the easiest way and does the trick.
...I guess this issue gives me a good excuse to go for a BIII
Cheers
I already guessed that getting to root cause of this was a bit ambitious
For now I've added 4% more output to the right channel by changing the balance in the Windows volume settings.
Correcting the issue this way doesn't feel quite right (because it's an hardware issue) but it's the easiest way and does the trick.
...I guess this issue gives me a good excuse to go for a BIII
Cheers
I've had a stereo buffallo ii / ivy iii / placid / placid bp setup for a couple of years. Recently it became intermittent (audio either dropping in volume by 6dB or so on both channels or cutting out entirely), and has now stopped outputting audio entirely. I'm not using any external control.
The outputs of both power supplies seem fine (went through the setup procedure again just to check) and the AVCC module seems to have the correct output voltage. (~3.6V)
The lock LED comes on when a valid SPDIF signal is present and goes off again when it isn't. The IVY seems ok (connecting its outputs to an input on my sound card and tapping the IVY's inputs with a multimeter probe sees some audio pops coming through on whichever channel I tap)
I've tried a different SPDIF source and cable just in case it was that, but no joy (also tested the source on the input of my sound card, it comes through fine)
Other symptoms:
The MUTE LED never lights. It does seem to switch but only ever gets 0.7V across it so doesn't actually come on. I took it out and the LED is still fine. I've a feeling it hasn't been coming on for a while, so possibly not relevant (it's hidden away in a rack so i'm not 100% sure. It definitely wasn't functioning when the unit was still working but intermittent.)
When I turn the unit off there's a sort of squeak on the left output, like a quickly rising sine tone. Its not particularly loud but clearly audible. I'd also heard this before things went awry.
Any ideas where I should start looking for issues?
The outputs of both power supplies seem fine (went through the setup procedure again just to check) and the AVCC module seems to have the correct output voltage. (~3.6V)
The lock LED comes on when a valid SPDIF signal is present and goes off again when it isn't. The IVY seems ok (connecting its outputs to an input on my sound card and tapping the IVY's inputs with a multimeter probe sees some audio pops coming through on whichever channel I tap)
I've tried a different SPDIF source and cable just in case it was that, but no joy (also tested the source on the input of my sound card, it comes through fine)
Other symptoms:
The MUTE LED never lights. It does seem to switch but only ever gets 0.7V across it so doesn't actually come on. I took it out and the LED is still fine. I've a feeling it hasn't been coming on for a while, so possibly not relevant (it's hidden away in a rack so i'm not 100% sure. It definitely wasn't functioning when the unit was still working but intermittent.)
When I turn the unit off there's a sort of squeak on the left output, like a quickly rising sine tone. Its not particularly loud but clearly audible. I'd also heard this before things went awry.
Any ideas where I should start looking for issues?
Best place to get 3.3 volts from Buffalo II with Tridents?
I am using the Amanero USB to i2s, and am adding an i2s isolator to the Amanero. The input side of the isolator uses the 3.3 volts from the Amanero, but the output side needs 3.3 volts from somewhere else. Is there a place you would recommend that I tap one of the 3.3 volt supplies on the Buffalo II with Trident 1.1's? Or should I pick up another Trident and power the isolator with it? What would be the best solution?
Thank you for your help.
Aaron.
I am using the Amanero USB to i2s, and am adding an i2s isolator to the Amanero. The input side of the isolator uses the 3.3 volts from the Amanero, but the output side needs 3.3 volts from somewhere else. Is there a place you would recommend that I tap one of the 3.3 volt supplies on the Buffalo II with Trident 1.1's? Or should I pick up another Trident and power the isolator with it? What would be the best solution?
Thank you for your help.
Aaron.
Hi. I finally resumed my Buffalo-II project. I bought the parts years ago. It is running right now but I have a problem that I doesn't seem to be able to solve. My current setup is:
-Buffallo-II with Trident Shunt Regs. The Volumite is on order. The Buffalo is stacked over the MUX. I'm using the I2C interface between both. I'll supply the Volumite directly from the Buffalo.
-LCDPS Supply: One side adjusted to 5.25V (Buffalo-II is using the Trident). I bypass the first R1 CRC resistor to get more current as instructed into the integration guide. Other side adj. to 5.0V, supply the MUX.
-2 Counterpoint ver2 I/V converters. Power supply from one Placid BP (one supply for the two counterpoints. Supply adjusted at +/-15V.
-Ballsie SE converter. This is a custom version made by myself that includes the Legato Ballsie section with buffers (to drive headphones).
The problem I have is a random hiss noise sound, very disturbing with the headphone.
This noise comes and goes. It depends of which parts I touch on the Counterpoint. If I touch some capacitors such as C5 the noise almost disappear. I connected the Buffalo AVCC voltage to the Counterpoint AVCC input.
The noise comes and goes. Very frustrating. Any idea what can be the problem?
-Buffallo-II with Trident Shunt Regs. The Volumite is on order. The Buffalo is stacked over the MUX. I'm using the I2C interface between both. I'll supply the Volumite directly from the Buffalo.
-LCDPS Supply: One side adjusted to 5.25V (Buffalo-II is using the Trident). I bypass the first R1 CRC resistor to get more current as instructed into the integration guide. Other side adj. to 5.0V, supply the MUX.
-2 Counterpoint ver2 I/V converters. Power supply from one Placid BP (one supply for the two counterpoints. Supply adjusted at +/-15V.
-Ballsie SE converter. This is a custom version made by myself that includes the Legato Ballsie section with buffers (to drive headphones).
The problem I have is a random hiss noise sound, very disturbing with the headphone.
This noise comes and goes. It depends of which parts I touch on the Counterpoint. If I touch some capacitors such as C5 the noise almost disappear. I connected the Buffalo AVCC voltage to the Counterpoint AVCC input.
The noise comes and goes. Very frustrating. Any idea what can be the problem?
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I think I found the problem. I have just one Placid-BP to supply both Counterpoint and Ballsie Buffer, total supply current +-290ma. I used an external lab power supply to supply both Counterpoint/Ballsie and now the noise is gone, rock solid.
The Placid-BP was designed to supply about 200ma max. I think my Placid was starving on current and couldn't supply all the needed current and/or regulate correctly.
The Placid-BP was designed to supply about 200ma max. I think my Placid was starving on current and couldn't supply all the needed current and/or regulate correctly.
I bet a lot of you might be interested in this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/250583-every-pi-better-pear.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/250583-every-pi-better-pear.html
It mystifies me as to why anyone would take steps to ensure as accurate a signal as possible, then pipe it through a 1950's distortion device, but I guess there's some things I will never get.
You might want to look here. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/232772-adding-output-tubes-stage-buffalo-2-a.html
You might want to look here. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/232772-adding-output-tubes-stage-buffalo-2-a.html
It mystifies me as to why anyone would take steps to ensure as accurate a signal as possible, then pipe it through a 1950's distortion device, but I guess there's some things I will never get.
You might want to look here. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/232772-adding-output-tubes-stage-buffalo-2-a.html
Want listen to music instead of digital sound ?
Yes, hence the A part of DAC
I prefer it to sound as close as possible to the way it was recorded. Crazy I know.
Anyway, this is not the place to debate the pros and cons of adding distortion.
The HCF has a high input impedance - but it can probably be lowered. I would ask the tube guys.
Hi Russ,
Is it possible to use attached schematic from Pedja
before the tube input stage?
Is there any DC offset to deal with?
Thanks
Attachments
Certainly, but the fun of DIY is not there.
So the schematic can work for Buffalo II.
Please tell me will it also deal with the DC
offset.
Thank you.
Audiohifi
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