Hi guys!
For a long time now I have been looking for a reasonable project for a poweramp and setteled for the one Claus Byrith made for Lundahl, here . As always money is a factor and to soften the blow I started to look for special deals and such. It might take some time but it could be worth it. Accually, it isn't the amp itself thats the problem but rather all the other small projects around it
.
Anyway, I found an old add which had been out for almost a year and sent the guy a mail asking it the stuff was still avaiable, which it was. "one pair of Andersson60 irons, 4pc of new tubes and 7 old ones suitable for testing" he said....
Now it so happend that the "old" tubes where old but not in the sence of them being used up, just old. The seven old ones where all Philips miniwatt made in GB, the ones with a metal base and dual halos. I think it was XF2 and atleast one of the tubes says "by mullard". I can't remember for sure since I left them at another place for the week.... Clever as I am...
Well, I had them tested and all tested 72mA or higher. If it is of consiquence there are no original boxes and the printing is worn but readable.
Now, here's the thing. These are suppost to be really good tubes but I do not wish to use them myself since I with all probability wouldn't dare to play with them. And since they are rare and thus probably valuable these could help finance this expencise hobby for a while.
What I'm getting at is that I could use some help setting a price for the tubes If I now decide to sell them. I feels kind of cheap starting a thread about it but what can you do??
I hope that you guys have some advice in this question.
Kind regards
For a long time now I have been looking for a reasonable project for a poweramp and setteled for the one Claus Byrith made for Lundahl, here . As always money is a factor and to soften the blow I started to look for special deals and such. It might take some time but it could be worth it. Accually, it isn't the amp itself thats the problem but rather all the other small projects around it
.Anyway, I found an old add which had been out for almost a year and sent the guy a mail asking it the stuff was still avaiable, which it was. "one pair of Andersson60 irons, 4pc of new tubes and 7 old ones suitable for testing" he said....
Now it so happend that the "old" tubes where old but not in the sence of them being used up, just old. The seven old ones where all Philips miniwatt made in GB, the ones with a metal base and dual halos. I think it was XF2 and atleast one of the tubes says "by mullard". I can't remember for sure since I left them at another place for the week.... Clever as I am...
Well, I had them tested and all tested 72mA or higher. If it is of consiquence there are no original boxes and the printing is worn but readable.
Now, here's the thing. These are suppost to be really good tubes but I do not wish to use them myself since I with all probability wouldn't dare to play with them. And since they are rare and thus probably valuable these could help finance this expencise hobby for a while.
What I'm getting at is that I could use some help setting a price for the tubes If I now decide to sell them. I feels kind of cheap starting a thread about it but what can you do??
I hope that you guys have some advice in this question.
Kind regards
With some consideration to what they might actually be worth on a good day I would probably put them up on eBay, but you need to find someone to test them properly and post the measured transconductance, (Possibly at a specified plate current even better) no gas, no shorts for each tube you sell. This will allow the prospective buyer if savvy to gauge how much life is left in these tubes.
You might sell them as unmatched pairs with the extra odd one thrown in for good measure or sell them as a lot.
Make sure to make the usual disclaimers, sell as is, but tested good. Selling tubes on eBay has become something like opening pandora's box, everyone expects perfection from 40 yr old used components, and sometimes the prices reflect this fact. Incidentally Far East customers are by far the fussiest, but most interested buyers I have encountered.
Reserve price auctions cost a lot, and seem to often result in no sale, and sometimes by just a couple of $ so I don't recommend them at all.
One question you need to ask is whether or not you can get enough for them to make it worth your while to sell them at all, unless you get top dollar a quartet of current production tubes may run you a substantial portion of what you get for these.
I'm not sure what these are worth, I would just take a look at eBay and see what others are selling comparable used mini-watt and mullard tubes for.
That said I don't use EL34 in any of my current designs, and am not in the market for same..
JMTCW.. YMMV.. etc..
You might sell them as unmatched pairs with the extra odd one thrown in for good measure or sell them as a lot.
Make sure to make the usual disclaimers, sell as is, but tested good. Selling tubes on eBay has become something like opening pandora's box, everyone expects perfection from 40 yr old used components, and sometimes the prices reflect this fact. Incidentally Far East customers are by far the fussiest, but most interested buyers I have encountered.
Reserve price auctions cost a lot, and seem to often result in no sale, and sometimes by just a couple of $ so I don't recommend them at all.
One question you need to ask is whether or not you can get enough for them to make it worth your while to sell them at all, unless you get top dollar a quartet of current production tubes may run you a substantial portion of what you get for these.
I'm not sure what these are worth, I would just take a look at eBay and see what others are selling comparable used mini-watt and mullard tubes for.
That said I don't use EL34 in any of my current designs, and am not in the market for same..
JMTCW.. YMMV.. etc..
Personally I consider the Mullard EL34 a great valve...but for guitar amps.. Due to the smooth sound and harmonic signature it produces....
For Hi-Fi audio applications I use the Sylvania 6CA7, which I belive sounds cleaner and tighter and more robust than the UK made EL34.... The 6CA7 is the US equivalent... it is fairly close in terms of plate resistance and gm....
Chris
For Hi-Fi audio applications I use the Sylvania 6CA7, which I belive sounds cleaner and tighter and more robust than the UK made EL34.... The 6CA7 is the US equivalent... it is fairly close in terms of plate resistance and gm....
Chris
Oh, thanks for the replys and advice.
I had them tested with an Avo MkIV according to some specs the tester had. I myself don't know which but He said they where ok. They should measure 75mA for optimal as I understood it, these measured 76, 72, 82, 82. The two mullards had black base.
The day after my first post (i think) one single philipstube went for 125$. Now theres a pair of Telefunkens that are higher than that!
I took a picture of them, heres one of them:
I had them tested with an Avo MkIV according to some specs the tester had. I myself don't know which but He said they where ok. They should measure 75mA for optimal as I understood it, these measured 76, 72, 82, 82. The two mullards had black base.
hehe, thats for sure!
The day after my first post (i think) one single philipstube went for 125$. Now theres a pair of Telefunkens that are higher than that!
I took a picture of them, heres one of them:
Attachments
To specify a bit more:
Valve 1: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57E. Measured 76mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 2: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57E. Measured 82mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 3: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57D. Measured 82mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 4: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57E. Measured 72mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 5: By Mullard, black base made in great britain. XF2. Double halos. Measured 81mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 6: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57E. Measured 78mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 7: By ??, black base. Double halos. Measured 90mA with AVO MkIV. (same as Valve 5?)
Valve 8: Siemens black base measured 65mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 9: Siemens black base measured 66mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 10: Siemens black base measured 75mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 11: Siemens black base measured 95mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 1: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57E. Measured 76mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 2: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57E. Measured 82mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 3: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57D. Measured 82mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 4: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57E. Measured 72mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 5: By Mullard, black base made in great britain. XF2. Double halos. Measured 81mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 6: Philips Miniwatt, Metal base made in holland. SY1 57E. Measured 78mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 7: By ??, black base. Double halos. Measured 90mA with AVO MkIV. (same as Valve 5?)
Valve 8: Siemens black base measured 65mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 9: Siemens black base measured 66mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 10: Siemens black base measured 75mA with AVO MkIV.
Valve 11: Siemens black base measured 95mA with AVO MkIV.
You've got some really nice ones for sure. The metal based ones whether mullard or mini-watt will sell for really big bucks. These are perhaps the most sought after and desirable of the lot.
I disagree with another poster here and have found the various incarnations of mullard/valvo/mini-watt EL34's to sound better in my designs than anything else I have tried. U.S. made 6CA7 aren't even close in my estimation, but again this is my opinion.. It is probably a question of design, component quality and system matching issues.
I would consider keeping a quartet of these, I think you'll really regret selling them later. No current production tube is close to these in performance or sound quality imho.. Just slow down and save your pennies - hard to do and I am not a good taker of my own advice..
I would keep all of the mini-watts and sell the rest. Siemens are also a trendy type and should fetch a good price.
I disagree with another poster here and have found the various incarnations of mullard/valvo/mini-watt EL34's to sound better in my designs than anything else I have tried. U.S. made 6CA7 aren't even close in my estimation, but again this is my opinion.. It is probably a question of design, component quality and system matching issues.
I would consider keeping a quartet of these, I think you'll really regret selling them later. No current production tube is close to these in performance or sound quality imho.. Just slow down and save your pennies - hard to do and I am not a good taker of my own advice..
I would keep all of the mini-watts and sell the rest. Siemens are also a trendy type and should fetch a good price.
Hi Kevinkr,
So far the 6CA7EH sounds the best in my Eico HF-87, IMHO. Haven't tried anything from JJ yet.
The amp also measures better with these (6CA7EH) tubes. THe amp was rebuilt to original spec. using film caps (nothing special) just so you have an idea. Metal Oxide resistors for the most part.
-Chris
So far the 6CA7EH sounds the best in my Eico HF-87, IMHO. Haven't tried anything from JJ yet.
That is a certainty. I would probably find the opposite true in a European amp. I can tell you I would have a very hard time justifying the prices some of these tubes go for. (as I breathe a sigh of relief)
The amp also measures better with these (6CA7EH) tubes. THe amp was rebuilt to original spec. using film caps (nothing special) just so you have an idea. Metal Oxide resistors for the most part.
-Chris
Hi Anatech,
I was actually thinking of vintage 6CA7 of U.S. manufacture, it is quite possible that your EH ones sound better than is typical of the GE (?) type I am familiar with.
One thing I am pretty sure of is that the old Dutch, German and UK made EL34 were far better sounding than almost any of the current production items based on extensive listening experience in a variety of different amplifiers.
I agree with you on the price issue, and I imagine a lot of old tv/radio repairmen, not to mention the marketing and sales people from the old majors would be rolling over in their graves if they knew what those tubes go for today..
I was actually thinking of vintage 6CA7 of U.S. manufacture, it is quite possible that your EH ones sound better than is typical of the GE (?) type I am familiar with.
One thing I am pretty sure of is that the old Dutch, German and UK made EL34 were far better sounding than almost any of the current production items based on extensive listening experience in a variety of different amplifiers.
I agree with you on the price issue, and I imagine a lot of old tv/radio repairmen, not to mention the marketing and sales people from the old majors would be rolling over in their graves if they knew what those tubes go for today..
Hi Kevin,
You may be right about the US 6CA7's sound, but they seem to take punishment better.
I for one, am rolling, not in the grave yet. I used to work at a parts jobber. Then we had real garbage if someone wanted it. "Original Equipment" and "El Menco" (used to be a good name I think) were two of the worst I saw. Sylvania made lousy signal tubes, but okay power tubes. GE, RCA, Westinghouse and Tung Sol seemed to be the best brands back in those simpler times. KT-88's were expensive as sin, but not compared to today. I should have bought a bunch in bulk!
The older guys I knew would be flipping in their graves for sure!
-Chris
You may be right about the US 6CA7's sound, but they seem to take punishment better.
I for one, am rolling, not in the grave yet. I used to work at a parts jobber. Then we had real garbage if someone wanted it. "Original Equipment" and "El Menco" (used to be a good name I think) were two of the worst I saw. Sylvania made lousy signal tubes, but okay power tubes. GE, RCA, Westinghouse and Tung Sol seemed to be the best brands back in those simpler times. KT-88's were expensive as sin, but not compared to today. I should have bought a bunch in bulk!
The older guys I knew would be flipping in their graves for sure!
-Chris
Guys, can someone enlighten me, what the appropriate Test-Values are for 100% ?
I get different data here, to get to 100mA:
- Mullard specifies 250V on the Anode and G2 and -Ug of -12.2V
- Philips specified Va=250V (Anode I guess), but Vb at 265V (is this g2? is Vb defined as g2-voltage ???I thought it is "Betriebsspannung", so HV+ basically) and -Ug of 13.5V ??
I get different data here, to get to 100mA:
- Mullard specifies 250V on the Anode and G2 and -Ug of -12.2V
- Philips specified Va=250V (Anode I guess), but Vb at 265V (is this g2? is Vb defined as g2-voltage ???I thought it is "Betriebsspannung", so HV+ basically) and -Ug of 13.5V ??
Er - mmmm - since the discourse includes me(!!!) (Chris, I am one of the oldies, likely the oldest guy on this forum
? - but not yet rolling neither horizontal yet, also not tubes ....)Point, somewhat OT: I fear I have a grim outlook regarding modern tubes. Having tested dozens of 6L6GCs, EL34s and smaller signal tubes, I find a depressing spread of characteristics. By which I mean, easily +/- 20%, and several by as much as +/- 50%, particularly with small-signal tubes. (I hesitate to mention brands.)
Not to dishearten anybody (perhaps the yield your way is better), but perhaps just to warn. Here I am speaking mainly of Russian and Far-Eastern brands (are there any others these days?). Back in 'the day' we returned tubes exceeding some +/- 12%; then mostly UK and USA brands; and not that many returns.
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