• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

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I love the "overkill" build!
Beautfull amp!

Previous RH84 amps I built sounded very good, which prompted me to build one with reasonably nice parts throughout... No electrolytics in the PS – Solen and ASC caps instead, Mills and TKD resistors, Elna Cerafine for the EL84 bypass, TKD 2CP-2511 volume pot, Transcendar 10W output transformers, Edcor power transformer, Hammond choke and filament transformer... Two 6AX4 chosen for rectifier duty mainly because of vinylsavor and his interesting web pages... Still not done completely – filament voltage feeding EL84 and ECC81 is slightly higher and couple other subtle revisions need to be done, other than that it's been finished...
Was it worth spending all that money? This one's a keeper, I'll only say that much...
 

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Can you answer my question?

Hi!

Here you are a few pics of my current (In constant evolution) system.

The Power amp is a highly modified OddWatt. I have two sets of tubes:

a) TungSol 6SL7 + Raytheon 6550 [ non-electric Jazz ]
b) RCA 6SL7 + GT KT88 [ Rock ]

The Pre-Amp is a highly modified blue-velvet Preamp directly connected to the output pin of the CD player's DAC chip.

Enjoy!

--Rodrigo.

What mean with non-electric Jazz and Rock?
Availability in electric diagrams?
 
Stereo Class A Ultralinear Power Amplifier - 6G6G + 807

First idea: what to do with an old (1942) destroyed radio?

Maybe remove all rusted components inside and build a new stereo amplifier? :)

Let see...

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First idea with 6SN7 driver


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Some original 1942 sockets recovered.

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Final version with 6G6G penthode driver


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The speaker is not connected :D

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The glass in front of the tubes is the old tuning-dial cleaned.

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Simple SE

This is my Simple SE (Tubelab PCB) with Gold Lion reissue KT88's and 12AT7 driver... Edcor transformers. I had the front bezel lasered at work. I haven't wired the CFB switch yet and I don't know that I will unless I decide to sell. UL is switchable though for more juice. Approximately 6-7 watts in SET and 8-9 in UL before any serious distortion occurs. Love the sound... detailed, clean, warm... only the music gets through. Thanks to George at Tubelab for all his hard work in bringing excellent sound quality to the laymen!!

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This is my Simple SE (Tubelab PCB) with Gold Lion reissue KT88's and 12AT7 driver... Edcor transformers. I had the front bezel lasered at work. I haven't wired the CFB switch yet and I don't know that I will unless I decide to sell. UL is switchable though for more juice. Approximately 6-7 watts in SET and 8-9 in UL before any serious distortion occurs. Love the sound... detailed, clean, warm... only the music gets through. Thanks to George at Tubelab for all his hard work in bringing excellent sound quality to the laymen!!

Very nice build bermtoog!
 
I recently caught the DIY audio bug. At 52 years old I'm finally getting back to really listening to music. Here's my first project. Its a 3W cathode follower from Transcendent Sound, a TS grounded grid and Tang Band W8-1772 based bass reflex speakers. Phono preamp coming soon.
 

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Disabled Account
Joined 2004
This is my Simple SE (Tubelab PCB)

Hmm, this may be off topic but I can't help wondering what's going on here. I have noticed that people who build George's amps generally (almost all of them) take good pictures of their amps. When I say good pictures I mean kinda artistic pics. I find this interesting and curious. And not only the pictures, chassis are also above average build quality. There must be a reason behind this but I can't quite figure it out.
 
Hmm, this may be off topic but I can't help wondering what's going on here. I have noticed that people who build George's amps generally (almost all of them) take good pictures of their amps. When I say good pictures I mean kinda artistic pics. I find this interesting and curious. And not only the pictures, chassis are also above average build quality. There must be a reason behind this but I can't quite figure it out.

Mmmmh, good point.
Maybe people who spend time thinking about looks and taking their time in carefull construction also spend time looking into amp design before buying "just another kit".
That's why they end up with George's well documented and thought through designs?!?
Just a thought...

Cheers,
Martin
 
Maybe people who spend time thinking about looks and taking their time in carefull construction also spend time looking into amp design before buying "just another kit".
That's why they end up with George's well documented and thought through designs?!?
Or, they listen to it during the final check up and realize that it deserves the chassis that matches its sound. :scratch2:
 
I have noticed that people who build George's amps generally (almost all of them) take good pictures of their amps.

I think people are just able to produce better pictures nowadays. The quality per dollar of cameras has improved tremendously. Additional factors are better access to information about lighting setup as well as retouching software becoming easier to use. For example, it took me all of 1 minute to retouch this photo using iPhoto software and the procedure was simply pressing the mouse button over each screw.
 

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Mmmmh, good point.
Maybe people who spend time thinking about looks and taking their time in carefull construction also spend time looking into amp design before buying "just another kit".
That's why they end up with George's well documented and thought through designs?!?
Just a thought...

Cheers,
Martin

Yes, you have something there. I did almost 200 hours of research on this (before and after someone on this forum told me about Tubelab) before I purchased.
 
I think people are just able to produce better pictures nowadays. The quality per dollar of cameras has improved tremendously. Additional factors are better access to information about lighting setup as well as retouching software becoming easier to use. For example, it took me all of 1 minute to retouch this photo using iPhoto software and the procedure was simply pressing the mouse button over each screw.

To an extent, yes. But I see terrible pics all the time taken by people with $1800 cameras and expensive lenses. I didnt spend much time taking these but I usually *try* to make sure the highlights and shadows are natural and that the color balance isn't totally wacked. These two things are the most difficult for any photographer to master. Vignetting just adds a little pizzaz and thats it for editing these particular pics.