When I was a schoolboy, I used to paint paths on PCBs with varnish using a sharpened match. I remember how my mom scolded me for the red traces of chlorine iron everywhere.
After a while, I started making printed circuit boards using a laser printer and an iron, and I used ammonium persulfate to etch copper.I agree about JLPCB, but only when you order printed circuit boards with a size of 100x100mm. And then, when you do something yourself, you enjoy both the process and the result.I think auto tracer is a great thing when you need to make a PCB for a computer motherboard. I don't see the point of using an automatic tracer for a ten-parts PCB. And again, where is the pleasure of the process?
Yes that's right
Such components are still being manufactured, but I, as an individual, cannot purchase them. I am using my old stock extracted from faulty equipment.
Yes, EF94 works in triode mode. You can read about parallel feedback in this document, although it is in Russian. Its author is Oleg Chernyshev
I once bought a cardboard pox with a pallet of components, All unsorted stuff. it took me weeks to sort.. At the end i found original ceramic IC”s that literally where made for fighter jets. They came with a-label that read something like original general dynamics F16 spare parts.. Also hand selected LM399 with a four digit code on them
@ Professor
Hi, your multi-ply Amp is an absolute beauty !
Could you share a bit about the board construction ?
I would like to do this style instead of installing turrets, but how did you actually
secure the terminals?
Are the eyelets just press fit, or is there a ring hammered onto bottom side, and
if so, how much longer than board thickness does eyelet need to be to make the
mechanical connection ?
The Ebay link shows a supply of eyelets only, so I wonder how you did this.
TIA !
Hi, your multi-ply Amp is an absolute beauty !
Could you share a bit about the board construction ?
I would like to do this style instead of installing turrets, but how did you actually
secure the terminals?
Are the eyelets just press fit, or is there a ring hammered onto bottom side, and
if so, how much longer than board thickness does eyelet need to be to make the
mechanical connection ?
The Ebay link shows a supply of eyelets only, so I wonder how you did this.
TIA !
Hi! I use rivets 1.5 ... 2 mm longer than the thickness of the board. To make the boards, I use FR4 with a thickness of 2 mm and a rivet length of 4 mm. The diameter of the rivets is 3 mm, the hole in the board should be such that the rivet enters tightly. This length of rivets allows you to install, for example, two eyelets and make a grounding star. For riveting, I use a few center punch tools and a hammer.
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My sweet plywood amp
Lovely workmanship! What are the six metal cans at the very back, are they shields over the RCA sockets?
I finally finished my amp. Based on the Glasshouse 300BSE
This is my first project where I didn't use any kit parts or boards. I designed all the boards (except for the heater supplies, those are Pete Millett's) and the chassis myself. Really happy how everything turned out and how it sounds
The wood is African Padouk, metal work was done in China, knobs from Italy, and all the iron is Belgian so it's a very worldly amp
This is my first project where I didn't use any kit parts or boards. I designed all the boards (except for the heater supplies, those are Pete Millett's) and the chassis myself. Really happy how everything turned out and how it sounds
The wood is African Padouk, metal work was done in China, knobs from Italy, and all the iron is Belgian so it's a very worldly amp
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RapidDirect made al the alu panels. I have to add that I had some issues, probably due to communication/language, but they where very helpful and in the end it all turned out nicely.
It definitely is different than dealing with a "western" company.