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26th September 2003, 12:07 AM
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#21 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Splendid stuff! I'm particularly impressed by the coil winding machine.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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26th September 2003, 07:01 PM
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hemel Hempstead
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Proposed 6072A Line amp
Some of my ideas on how to finish my amp. So far I build a prototype with junkparts, but am planning on how to build it and lay-out the parts. The top and rear will be from black chromed steel plate, with a satin finish. The sides possibly from a darker type of wood, wild cherry maybe.
Please advice on improvements. Top: |
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26th September 2003, 07:24 PM
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#24 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Won't you want more than one input? Do the components you're going to connect between the valves mean that they need to be spaced that far apart? You won't be able to see the volume setting when seated. A steel top plate might couple the leakage field from the mains transformer into the signal valves. They're all fairly minor points.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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26th September 2003, 07:25 PM
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#25 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
If possible I'd advise to mount the RCAs on the front, this way they and the attached interconnects: a) don't disturb the nice look of the pre. b) put much less strain on the cables. Other than that it looks very good. Cheers, 
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Frank |
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26th September 2003, 08:15 PM
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#26 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hemel Hempstead
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Quote:
Thanx for other advice. Quote:
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26th September 2003, 08:19 PM
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#27 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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You want something conductive, so that means a metal. You don't want it to be magnetic, so that excludes most steels (some stainless steel is non-magnetic, but it's tough to work). Aluminium is the most popular choice, followed by copper, and silver for the crazies.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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26th September 2003, 08:29 PM
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#28 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
I've used 3 mm thick circuit board for that, copperfoil side facing upwards, grounded and finished with sprayed on varnish. Looks good, sounds good and is cheap... If it needs to support somme heavy stuff such as xformers you may need to reinforce it from underneath to prevent sagging. Cheers,
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Frank |
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26th September 2003, 08:39 PM
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#29 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hemel Hempstead
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Quote:
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26th September 2003, 11:00 PM
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#30 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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A run on 3mm copper-clad board
Quote:
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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