Heres an interesting shot.. I took it with 15s exposure time in totally dark room.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ragnwald, I suppose you're not coming to the DIY-summit in Gothenburg this Saturday (19/4). I will be there and I will do my best to documentate all nice projects (including mine, if I am ready in time ...
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For the rest of you, read all about it HERE . Well it's all in Swedish.
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For anyone interested, the address is Svartedalsskolan, Hisingen, Göteborg, Sverige.
).For the rest of you, read all about it HERE . Well it's all in Swedish.
.For anyone interested, the address is Svartedalsskolan, Hisingen, Göteborg, Sverige.
thanks, I have seen here nice chassis toobasstard said:
I don't know the exact name in english, but it should be something like etched copper sheeting. Not the common brown plate, but seems like glass fibre, or something like it, when I brake the plate. Well I found it in the local shop, and looked interesting. Gonna buy same next time.
Hope to show everyone one new chassis soon. Have a great idea
Thanks you for your kind words I uploaded some high-res pictures to my google web album, althought they arent really great quality. I wish i had better camera..maybe some day
To the web gallery!
I uploaded some high-res pictures to my google web album, althought they arent really great quality. I wish i had better camera..maybe some dayTo the web gallery!
mindutis said:
thanks, I have seen here nice chassis too
I don't know the exact name in english, but it should be something like etched copper sheeting.
doesn't really look like copper,,, it's not that I don't believe you, I'm interested in new board types cos I ain't that satisfied with the boards I'm using now,,,
is the copper on the side that's not visible in the picture?
Yes, the copper is on one side: http://aycu05.webshots.com/image/35164/2000537406886628899_rs.jpg
The good quality copper covered board should be white. The glass fibre is mixed with glue, and if they use bad quality glue, the board became darker. The best board should be almost transparent. It was used for high frequency electronic.
The good quality copper covered board should be white. The glass fibre is mixed with glue, and if they use bad quality glue, the board became darker. The best board should be almost transparent. It was used for high frequency electronic.
Audio Augustus Imperator (AAI)
Here is the latest fine product of Ranch Rodango - the Audio Augustus Imperator or AAI for short. It is the most fantastic sounding amp I have ever heard, due mainly to the Coveted Clandestine Cochraine Circuit (C4). My implementation is nothing short of extravagant! From the Soviet mil-spec teflon coupling capacitors (imported especially for this amp) to the mil-spec wiring and no concern for cost approach to construction.
The tube complement is as follows. First are a pair of '59 Soviet Svetlana 6C3S rectifuers which, by the way, are the toughest 5U4Gs I have ever seen. Regular 5U4Gs will arc-over in this amp. Next are a pair of '50 Raytheon 6J5G preamps followed by a pair of '44 Sylvania JAN CHS 6SN7s and into the JJ KT88s.
I used no cheap parts at all. The cathode resistor bypass caps are Solen fastcaps, all of the resistors are metal film and at least 1 watt. All of the tube sockets are gold plates and all of the wiring is silver plated mil-spec. It has 4 chokes, two outputs, a CG UTC power transformer and weighs in at 97 pounds.
The results? Utterly awesome! It actually sounds clearer and more real than my 300B SET amp! And about 10 times the power.
Here is the latest fine product of Ranch Rodango - the Audio Augustus Imperator or AAI for short. It is the most fantastic sounding amp I have ever heard, due mainly to the Coveted Clandestine Cochraine Circuit (C4). My implementation is nothing short of extravagant! From the Soviet mil-spec teflon coupling capacitors (imported especially for this amp) to the mil-spec wiring and no concern for cost approach to construction.
The tube complement is as follows. First are a pair of '59 Soviet Svetlana 6C3S rectifuers which, by the way, are the toughest 5U4Gs I have ever seen. Regular 5U4Gs will arc-over in this amp. Next are a pair of '50 Raytheon 6J5G preamps followed by a pair of '44 Sylvania JAN CHS 6SN7s and into the JJ KT88s.
I used no cheap parts at all. The cathode resistor bypass caps are Solen fastcaps, all of the resistors are metal film and at least 1 watt. All of the tube sockets are gold plates and all of the wiring is silver plated mil-spec. It has 4 chokes, two outputs, a CG UTC power transformer and weighs in at 97 pounds.
The results? Utterly awesome! It actually sounds clearer and more real than my 300B SET amp! And about 10 times the power.
Good work Rod, .Since no expense is spared ?: Be interested if you swap the JJ88's for other brands and discover any sonic differences.
I found the JJ88's rather shrill, typical of a frame grid application.
What is the anticipate spec of the Imperator ?
From family history, the name of your amp was also the same name of a large German ocean liner, 52,116 tons. British seamen called it the "Limperator" as it was found to have an inbuilt list. After 14/18 it was renamed Berengaria. My grandfather tried to sink it !
No discouragment!
richhj
I found the JJ88's rather shrill, typical of a frame grid application.
What is the anticipate spec of the Imperator ?
From family history, the name of your amp was also the same name of a large German ocean liner, 52,116 tons. British seamen called it the "Limperator" as it was found to have an inbuilt list. After 14/18 it was renamed Berengaria. My grandfather tried to sink it !
No discouragment!
richhj
With those AB figures, then it looks like around 50W per ch. I think you meant V cathode = 58V, not Vg1. If Rcath = 1K seems a trifle high. What is the power rating of those cathode resistors ?
I know the JJ88 bias is 20% lower than other 88's so if you swap'em , you might have to check the output stage is running correctly.
As Ragnwald mentions, you have to drop B+ way down-- as with my amp I am just skimming class A at 265V B+ using UL parallel pairs. Iq = 90mA, Ifload =110mA. Pout LS = 25W. With such conditions, the performance is exemplorary.
richj
I know the JJ88 bias is 20% lower than other 88's so if you swap'em , you might have to check the output stage is running correctly.
As Ragnwald mentions, you have to drop B+ way down-- as with my amp I am just skimming class A at 265V B+ using UL parallel pairs. Iq = 90mA, Ifload =110mA. Pout LS = 25W. With such conditions, the performance is exemplorary.
richj
Yea I had to go 1K on the Rks because I was getting over current popping with my 820 ohm Rks. It was running about 65ma and with the 1ks it's running about 55ma now on my set of SEDs. The Rks are 10W.
Perhaps I'll put the thing on my variac and idle it down to about 60% and see how it all sounds. Of course I'd need to rebias to do it right.
I need quick change Rks.
Or I could just leave it all too... That idea sounds best to me!
Perhaps I'll put the thing on my variac and idle it down to about 60% and see how it all sounds. Of course I'd need to rebias to do it right.
I need quick change Rks.
Or I could just leave it all too... That idea sounds best to me!