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#21 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Vancouver, BC
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I used 120R on each leg but I needed to take down the voltage quite a bit. In fact I ended up at closer to 290V; gets me more life out of the tubes.
In your case why not just increase the "R" in you RC filter to get the B+ down to at least 300v as per max specs for voltage? |
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#22 | |
diyAudio Member
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No particular issue in increasing except some laziness as the chassis resistor is mounted with thermal epoxy glue. That said, if it were absolutely needed I'd do it.
That value was chosen during the mockup phase for about 315V B+, which results in minimally above 300V across the tube. It's also below George's target voltage for the SPP, 320V. The Russian 6P14P-EV can handle way more than that, but from what I've read, this is also fine for most EL84's out there. Quote:
The only change I will do is replace the CL-140 across the mains (good for 1.1A steady state current) with a CL-90. This will add some resistance across the primary and reduce some of the B+. It will also likely last longer than the CL-140 there. Lastly, I was able to run some measurements with both the 6P14P-EV and Hammond labeled Amperex Austria tubes. ECC81 are Mullards Blackburn. Wired as triode, still with gNFB from when it was wired as UL. Max output was around 5W, frequency response pretty flat. Attachments are FFT at 1W, 5W and FR at 1W output (2.83V across 8ohm resistor) |
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#23 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Vancouver, BC
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I wonder if you can rerun the FFT's with no feedback (in triode) for my own curiosity? I am not set up to do such tests and to me no feedback sounds better.
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#24 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Vancouver, BC
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#25 |
diyAudio Member
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cnau, sorry for not responding sooner.
If no physical changes to the board are needed, I wouldn't mind running it. I'm not sure if having the feedback caps in the board affect anything if wiring the OPT directly to the binding posts. That said, it's great that you are setting up for this. For measuring at 1W (2.83V) it only really requires a soundcard/interface and software. |
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#26 |
Spreading triode love.
diyAudio Member
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If you can test with the loud speaker under power, you can put a small resistive divider on the sound card input to measure higher power without needing giant resistors.
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Ask me about PCBs and kits for DIY tube projects. |
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