Another option would be to use some coax with a PE (NOT FOAM) dielectric. Something like RG-58 would be a nice size. If you ground the shield, then you have some shielding (that may or may not matter) and an additional safety feature. Otherwise, strip the outer jacket and the shield off and use the inner conductor and dielectric as HV wire. Not sure about RG-58, but RG-213 with a solid PE dielectric can take something like 60 kV without arcing over. I think it's rated for like 10 or 20 kV, but lots of companies use it for HV power supplies.
Perhaps
Mythical copper microdiodes will do NOTHING to sound, even if they exist, because each and every one of them will be surrounded by ... um .... "copper", so it ill be shorted anyway.
It's close to being over spec but: 600VAC cable is rated to 1000V DC (or Peak) (at least here 600V AC cable is rated 600V/1000V and US spec "Tri-rated" is similar IIRC.
CAT III DMM cable, also silicone, also the same story 600VAC/1000V DC or peak.
That being said, I have experienced insulation 'leakage" with CATIII wires and probes when measuring 550V DC + half wave rectification garbage, sparking probe tips at 100Hz!
So with that in mind, a "belt and braces" approach is always worth it. (Just not 10kV magnetoflex or anything carbon based, unless you are planning to heat the cable enough so that its resistance becomes acceptable)
Solid PE innercable of RG213 is fine for high voltage. RG213 with the copper shield started buzzing with 9KV in one of my PSU’s many years ago, but never burned or sparked. I also made small high frequency capacitors, using 5 to 10 cm of RG213. These were OK for very high RF voltages (it’s hard to find a ceramic alternative). For voltages below 1000 VDC I would recommend the PE innercable of RG58.
Regards, Gerrit
Regards, Gerrit
There must be a high voltage project fad amongst nerdy tech hobbyists these days, 10, 20 and 30 kV silicone wire is very cheap and plentiful on Amazon. Depending on the hole size on my top caps I'll probably get a few rolls of different diameters of this. Around .50 cents a foot.
My earlier post had a link.
My earlier post had a link.
A coat of paint will stop 300V. "Any" plastic will stand more, SHORT-term.
Insulation breakdown is really a gradual thing (unless you go crazy with voltage). All insulators WILL break down, some day. Faster with more voltage. "600V" wire is good for appliance or building for decades. If you use it in a 400V amplifier, it will last longer than you, even if it kicks to 800V on musical peaks. And Hi-Fi does not kick that high ALL the time. (Even overdrive guitarists take breaks.)
I am never sure of insulation.
Example, I will not wrap my hand around an active spark plug wire.
I do not want to test the insulation.
But even more than that, I do not want to test the action of the capacitive reactance as it charges up during a very fast rise transient.
How many have ever tried that?
Example, I will not wrap my hand around an active spark plug wire.
I do not want to test the insulation.
But even more than that, I do not want to test the action of the capacitive reactance as it charges up during a very fast rise transient.
How many have ever tried that?
One has to consider aging, too. Plastic insulators can become rigid and brittle after the plasticizer components evaporate after a couple of years. Heat and UV radiation will speed up this process. If you bend such cable, there will be cracks on it, and the conductor will be exposed.
Silicone is an exception, and teflon also (I think). I use a teflon insulated silver plated copper wire, pulled in a transparent teflon tube.
Silicone is an exception, and teflon also (I think). I use a teflon insulated silver plated copper wire, pulled in a transparent teflon tube.
I would not consider any thermoplastics for top cap wiring - this includes PVC and the various forms of polyethylene. The heat from the tube will accelerate their aging. Rubber test probe wire, though admirably limp, does not age very gracefully. The only things I would consider for top cap wiring insulation are PTFE and silicone. As far as voltage rating, I don't go crazy about it, but make sure that points of maximum voltage stress (like the chassis pass-through) are protected. I use a rubber grommet to provide insulation, strain relief, and abrasion resistance. I've seen silicone grommets floating around, but I usually use the standard black rubber grommets.
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