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Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"
Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"
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Old 6th March 2018, 02:19 AM   #71
jackinnj is offline jackinnj  United States
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Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"
The "Engineers Amp" is now my "go-to" amplifier. Use it every day for hours. There is just something very pleasant about the sound.
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Old 6th March 2018, 02:25 AM   #72
M3Roc is offline M3Roc
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The "Engineers Amp" is now my "go-to" amplifier. Use it every day for hours. There is just something very pleasant about the sound.
Do you think it has to do with the TV sweep tubes? I would imagine they would have a characteristic sound of their own.

In other news, as I learn more about good and bad tubes, I am realizing that the modern reproduction tubes mabe by Gold Lion in Russia are garbage. Noisy noisy junk! I should have known better. A single NOS Genelax sells for around $500 and difficult to find. My primaluna amp is back to the factory tubes which are not the best but at least they are quiet. I wasted $180 on ebay believing the snake charmers and their trickery, never again!

I found a mentor recently. He's an old time electrical engineer, he was working the lines in the hey day of tubes. He's been teaching me the ropes. He's also got a warehouse full of thousands of tubes. Did I say thousands? He's got a lot. He kindly sold me some Philips NOS JAN 12ax7 and 12au7 tubes at a very reasonable cost. I bought all he had lol. So hard to find good NOS tubes these days, the reproductions are absolute junk! No QC and no pride in their work.

I will hopefully have more updates on the Engineers Amp in the coming weeks as I'm waiting for more parts to arrive.
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Old 6th March 2018, 05:46 PM   #73
cgnman59 is offline cgnman59  United States
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I found a mentor recently. He's an old time electrical engineer, he was working the lines in the hey day of tubes. He's been teaching me the ropes.
Like you I found a mentor to be invaluable. I have been involved in international radio program development for years but never on the technical side. After discussing the idea of building an amp kit and learning from the experience, one of my engineer friends said he would help out. We selected the Engineers Amp. I had some starts and stops and my friend pointed me down the path but I had to do the work. I would encourage anybody who, like me, has little technical knowledge to find a mentor. Some people can read books and "get it." I found it more helpful to have my friend explain things to me as we went through the process. Best of all I have a great amp I enjoy listening to for hours at a time. I'll probably build Tubelab's SSE for my next amp project.
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Old 6th March 2018, 06:11 PM   #74
M3Roc is offline M3Roc
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That looks like an interesting amp. The next DIY amp that i'll build will be point to point and the tube sockets will not be mounted on the PCB. Not that there is an inherent issue with it but I want to separate the heat from the tube away from the PCB.
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Old 6th March 2018, 06:42 PM   #75
Lingwendil is offline Lingwendil  United States
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I prefer running wires from the PCB to the socket, and keeping AC heaters (when used) tightly hugging the chassis and sockets. Keeps the small signal circuitry cool and hum free. Also a good trick for swapping to different tube types that need different style basing.
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Old 8th March 2018, 03:40 AM   #76
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"
Given a choice I'd use a PCB with mounted sockets for every tube project I make from now until forever... It's just to convenient to not have and with a little attention the heat isn't a big deal.

YMMV
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Old 16th March 2018, 09:39 PM   #77
spaceistheplace is offline spaceistheplace
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Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"
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Can you elaborate on your techniques to handle heat on PCB mounted tube sockets?

I agree on the convenience.

Also, wear and tear on the pcb mounted sockets Iíve found can be an issue.

Usually after I am sure I wonít be dismantling I use 100% silicone squirted into the sockets.

Iíve also seen the same method used on the ends of carbon comp (and some others, I think Kondo does this throughout?) resistors to reduce drift. I think this has more to do with moisture, but I guess moisture and heat are obviously related.
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Last edited by spaceistheplace; 16th March 2018 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 16th March 2018, 09:44 PM   #78
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Build Log: P Millett's DCPP "Engineer's Amp"
As stupid as this may sound, the sockets and tubes (and PCB itself) are made to get hot. The heat radiates up and out - it's why tubes are best mounted pointing up.

Wear and tear is more of a function of how the PCB is mounted than the PCB or sockets themselves. And, how gentle you remove and insert tubes.

Modern PCB are really, really good. There are whole generations of DIYers who think that the boards in a Dynaco are indicative of all PCB from then until now. Nothing could be further from the truth. Yes, the old boards sucked, but materials have come a long, long way.
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Old 16th March 2018, 10:23 PM   #79
audiowize is offline audiowize  United States
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If you're going to put silicone on anything like this, be sure it's something like RTV from the auto parts store and not bathroom caulk.
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Old 16th March 2018, 10:47 PM   #80
Lingwendil is offline Lingwendil  United States
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I wouldn't put anything in the socket that isn't recommended by the manufacturer, especially working with high voltage, where things can easily burn up from pulling through the higher resistances, or arc as the silicone (grease, I assume?) attracts dust and dander from the room.
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