Hi everyone,
I will have this two peaces working within 1 month. What kind of Flack/Mp3 player do you suggest i use. I think it's a pity to use an Iphone or something like that...
Please help.
Thanks, Best Regards,
Triolé
I will have this two peaces working within 1 month. What kind of Flack/Mp3 player do you suggest i use. I think it's a pity to use an Iphone or something like that...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Please help.
Thanks, Best Regards,
Triolé
The Stereo 20 has to much gain for modern applications which makes the Varioscope rather redundant. This is good since the varioscope is rather poor and will lose detail and wash out the sound. Put the preamp aside and leave it there.
When I had a Leak stereo 20 I made a very simple "passive preamp" which worked surprisingly well with this amp. A passive preamp is literally just a volume pot and a source selector switch. There is no need for amplification and to build an preamplifier with gain would be a waste of time. I would select a 10K quality pot, or even better a stepped attenuator.
The Stereo 20 has a lovely tone despite been rather coloured. However do not be tempted to power it up until you have checked the values of all the resistors against a schematic. Also every single capacitor will need to be replaced with modern parts, especially the dual section filter cap. Failure to do this could lead to one of the valves going dead or even worse could take down your transformers. Also of note is there is a 100R (I think thats the value) which is in line with the input mains. This is a safety feature and will desolder itself and drop out if the amp starts to draw excessive current. Do not be tempted to increase its wattage or value otherwise you will defeat this feature. If you have to replace it because it has gone out of spec make absolutely certain you solder it in in exactly the same way as the original - otherwise it will not drop out.
Shoog
When I had a Leak stereo 20 I made a very simple "passive preamp" which worked surprisingly well with this amp. A passive preamp is literally just a volume pot and a source selector switch. There is no need for amplification and to build an preamplifier with gain would be a waste of time. I would select a 10K quality pot, or even better a stepped attenuator.
The Stereo 20 has a lovely tone despite been rather coloured. However do not be tempted to power it up until you have checked the values of all the resistors against a schematic. Also every single capacitor will need to be replaced with modern parts, especially the dual section filter cap. Failure to do this could lead to one of the valves going dead or even worse could take down your transformers. Also of note is there is a 100R (I think thats the value) which is in line with the input mains. This is a safety feature and will desolder itself and drop out if the amp starts to draw excessive current. Do not be tempted to increase its wattage or value otherwise you will defeat this feature. If you have to replace it because it has gone out of spec make absolutely certain you solder it in in exactly the same way as the original - otherwise it will not drop out.
Shoog
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The TCC 'Visconol' capacitors used for coupling in the Leak were a disaster. My Dad had a TL/25+ which was humming and red plating in less than 10 years of use due to a leaking coupling cap. Those TCC Visconol caps are reputed to contain oil loaded with PCBs so you might want to be careful cleaning up any residue and disposing of the old caps.
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