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Heater Wiring - the Good the Bad and the Ugly
Heater Wiring - the Good the Bad and the Ugly
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Old 13th September 2018, 11:30 AM   #141
Frederico Acardi is offline Frederico Acardi  Italy
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Thank you, The picture start to get clearer.
I was confused by the L of twisted wire vs straight parallel wires.
I tought that I was making the field stronger and wider.


But I have read a lot of cable papers and it start to make sense.


Thank you for your time.
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Old 8th October 2018, 02:41 PM   #142
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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Heater Wiring - the Good the Bad and the Ugly
Quote:
Originally Posted by DF96 View Post
Putting the wires in the corner of the chassis also reduces the electric field.
I assume this works best when the chassis is steel rather than aluminium ?
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Old 8th October 2018, 03:22 PM   #143
DF96 is offline DF96  England
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No. Any reasonable conductor will do for screening the electric field.
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Old 8th October 2018, 08:59 PM   #144
TonyTecson is offline TonyTecson  Philippines
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twisting wires works good....i have used plastic casings and did not have big issues...
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Old 4th December 2018, 04:35 PM   #145
WntrMute2 is offline WntrMute2  United States
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Default Three Wires?

I'm wondering what to do about a heater circuit where one needs to run 3 wires? I'm modifying a 300B amp SET amp to allow both 300b's with their 5V heaters and the 300b's with 2.5V heaters (JJ2A3-40 for instance). The switch that will be used to select the voltage needs to have all three wires from the Hammond 166MS run to it - the two wires carrying the 5V and the one center tapped wire with 2.5V. The distance is 2.5 inches or so. Should all three be twisted together or is there a different suggestion? The wire off of the transformer is of poor quality when it comes to creating a tight twist as compared to teflon coated solid core stuff. The relationship between the parts before any modification is shown in the photo. I plan on the switch being located between the transformer and the hum-pot.
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Old 28th March 2020, 06:23 PM   #146
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Hello,
For the two heater supplies ( each coming from a Rod Coleman circuit) of the VT25A tubes i managed to guide the cables close to the copper chassis.
In the center of the 2 UX4 sockets there will be a noval socket for the E80cc/6085 input tube. Because there is a wire running close to the chassis coming from the power supply all the way to the noval socket to have a proper ground connecting for the parts attached to the noval socket i cannot put the 6,3 volt twisted wire close to the chassis ( top plate)
So i decided to let it run across the bottom plate untill it reaches the noval socket and then bend it make it go vertically up to the socket. Now i used a ptfe tube for '' guiding '' the twisted wire. It would be easy for me to make a copper bar or hollow tube firmly attached to the chassis to guide the twisted wire all the way to the socket. Would this be a good idea?? A tube will surround the wires completely. A bar would more give the idea of the wires being closer to the chassis. Any ideas on this?? Thanks a lot. Greetings, eduard
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Old 29th March 2020, 09:49 AM   #147
trobbins is offline trobbins  Australia
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Imho, the above two posts may or may not relate to any measureable hum ingress - indicating that measuring the hum level in the amp, and then making layout changes and remeasuring the hum level, is the better approach to take. It may be that no hum is measureable with even the most basic heater layout precautions, or that measured hum comes from other causes than heater wiring (which need to be managed first and foremost).

It may be better to initially construct an amp in such a way that wiring and layout can be easily modified, as well as allow hum related tests to be made easily (eg. allow a battery to power the heaters, and include a humdinger pot).

It is human nature to try and make the initial layout and construction perfect, only to then have to pull bits and pieces apart to fix something.
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Old 29th March 2020, 12:06 PM   #148
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Hello,
I expect the two Rod Coleman regulators to work perfectly and they cannot be used with a humdigger pot.
The 6,3 volt 0,6A could! be a problem. The only way to '' approach '' the noval socket without coming to close to any sensual parts is the way i did it.
Just like to know if letting the twisted wire running through a copper tube which is firmly attached to the copper chassis could be an advantage? If it could it will be much easier to get such a tube and use it right away. I always read that one should start with the heater wiring.
Greetings, Eduard
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