Has anyone had a chance to put together one of his kits yet? I'm curious to see how they work out.
I'm particularly interested in the 6j4+6p6p+6z5p HiFi Tube Preamplifier Kit. As a newbie to DIY, it looks like a nice beginning.
I'm particularly interested in the 6j4+6p6p+6z5p HiFi Tube Preamplifier Kit. As a newbie to DIY, it looks like a nice beginning.
Ok: thanks.
But has anyone managed to take receipt and built one from SiliconRay's site yet?
I have a friend who is putting together one of his hybrid power amplifier kits.. It is at least loosely based on a suggested topology by one or more of the members here. Waiting to hear how it sounds and what if any sorts of issues it has.
Yeah, me too...I ordered one on Dec 12 2011...I'm still Waiting for It...I've been told that it can take 2 Months for Shipment...
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Hello all,
A lot of troubles in shipping. Slow is only one of the troubles. There're several boxes was damaged badly, one of them even lost a power transformer, so terrific.
We found another shipping method, it's air+ground shipping, takes 2 to 3 weeks (to US and Europe). The cost is about $90 for a 6P3P kit (10kg) or $120 for a FU-50 Kit. I just wonder which one do you prefer comparing to the $40 sea shipping?
Hope you can get the packages safty. I'm really anxious because there're more than 200 tube kits on the way.
A lot of troubles in shipping. Slow is only one of the troubles. There're several boxes was damaged badly, one of them even lost a power transformer, so terrific.
We found another shipping method, it's air+ground shipping, takes 2 to 3 weeks (to US and Europe). The cost is about $90 for a 6P3P kit (10kg) or $120 for a FU-50 Kit. I just wonder which one do you prefer comparing to the $40 sea shipping?
Hope you can get the packages safty. I'm really anxious because there're more than 200 tube kits on the way.
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Ray, the reason why I began asking about your kits is because I am genuinely interested in purchasing at least one of them. I would love to order the 6j4+6p6p+6z5p HiFi Tube Preamplifier Kit as a starter. As the saying goes, "Start small, increase size as you go".
But looking on the preamplifier page, I see that 'costis_n' in indeed correct. Several of the caps on your pictures certainly appear to have been used before. Some potential customers would not question the marketing strategy there, but I suspect most would.
John, thanks for the interests in our product. Yes some of the film caps are used. I had post long times before discussing about the used capacitors. It seems that most accept that used film capacitors are OK for audio applications. The electrolytics are new components. We do this because it can save some $$ for customers without sacrify the performance. Who don't want to save $ at this crisis time?
I found some transformers locally that might serve to supply 6VAC and 250VDC.
After all, I don't have all that fancy Agilent stuff at home. I got a junk lab in my
kitchen, easily shamed by the poorest of labs anywhere in the world.
But I will remind what pro equipment did measure: Actual plate current was less
than 1mA (I was expecting like 3 to 5ma), and the lower grid was discovered to
bias itself far more negatively than ground. Captured electrons perhaps piling up
a bias on both grids with nowhere to go? I would strongly consider some leakier
resistor values for both grids. Even so, it works fine, sounds fine as-is.
The board looks great, almost as good as ours, and you wouldn't want to know
the price our shop could make a similar board. I could never afford for personal
use if I had to rely on my own people. Then again, our specialty is rediculously
short turns (like 5 days or less), fancy inspection and testing to fancy specs with
lots of industry certifications. For example, we just got this new 3D automated
X-Ray inspection machine. Like our old Xray wasn't good enough or something?
You have seen pics, the old machine rocked! But we need a 3D robot inspector
now, why??? This excess is why I could never get my own stuff done where I work.
That said, I didn't find anything wrong with Silicon Ray's board or parts.
I wish his fluxing had been a little more aggressive. Was little flow through
to the top side. I'll probably go over it once more with a water soluble. That
won't be an issue if you are getting a kit of parts. Your favorite solder and flux
and technique always assured when you DIY...
After all, I don't have all that fancy Agilent stuff at home. I got a junk lab in my
kitchen, easily shamed by the poorest of labs anywhere in the world.
But I will remind what pro equipment did measure: Actual plate current was less
than 1mA (I was expecting like 3 to 5ma), and the lower grid was discovered to
bias itself far more negatively than ground. Captured electrons perhaps piling up
a bias on both grids with nowhere to go? I would strongly consider some leakier
resistor values for both grids. Even so, it works fine, sounds fine as-is.
The board looks great, almost as good as ours, and you wouldn't want to know
the price our shop could make a similar board. I could never afford for personal
use if I had to rely on my own people. Then again, our specialty is rediculously
short turns (like 5 days or less), fancy inspection and testing to fancy specs with
lots of industry certifications. For example, we just got this new 3D automated
X-Ray inspection machine. Like our old Xray wasn't good enough or something?
You have seen pics, the old machine rocked! But we need a 3D robot inspector
now, why??? This excess is why I could never get my own stuff done where I work.
That said, I didn't find anything wrong with Silicon Ray's board or parts.
I wish his fluxing had been a little more aggressive. Was little flow through
to the top side. I'll probably go over it once more with a water soluble. That
won't be an issue if you are getting a kit of parts. Your favorite solder and flux
and technique always assured when you DIY...
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schematic of the 6j4+6p6p preamplifier which was missing on the website. Pls let me know your thoughs.
Thanks Kenpeters good words about us. A few more words about the PCB: the boards are UL proved and the factories are ISO certified although it takes only $50 to prototyping several 2L 4"x4" PCB at ezpcb. Unlike the tube kits are mostly for DIYer, the customers of PCB service have many big names such as TI, Micron, JPL, ROHM.. "ridiculous short turn" is also available, how about 24 hours for 2L? It's still effortable even plus 2 to 3 days DHL shipping.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks Kenpeters good words about us. A few more words about the PCB: the boards are UL proved and the factories are ISO certified although it takes only $50 to prototyping several 2L 4"x4" PCB at ezpcb. Unlike the tube kits are mostly for DIYer, the customers of PCB service have many big names such as TI, Micron, JPL, ROHM.. "ridiculous short turn" is also available, how about 24 hours for 2L? It's still effortable even plus 2 to 3 days DHL shipping.
I know that the voltage is Europe is 230V. In australia it's 240V. But I think the performance of the amplifier won't be effect significantly by 5% difference. Sometimes the swing of power line is far beyond 10V.
About the safty, the transformer can endure at least 500V ESD between layers, so 230V isn't a problem at all.
Anyway, we will consider providing 240V version seriously if it's really necessary.
About the safty, the transformer can endure at least 500V ESD between layers, so 230V isn't a problem at all.
Anyway, we will consider providing 240V version seriously if it's really necessary.
Here's the funny thing, it used to be 240V but now the new standard is 230V as per AS. I am getting 250V at the end of the line at my place.....no wonder I keep blowing light bulbs.
Do I need to change the rating to 220V/230V AC? are there any other countries use 220V except China?
TV7, A custom in Australia told me his voltage is less than 210V in his farm which is far far away from city. It's better than 250V to blow the bulbs, right? After all he was very happy with the EL34 amplifier at that voltage.
TV7, A custom in Australia told me his voltage is less than 210V in his farm which is far far away from city. It's better than 250V to blow the bulbs, right? After all he was very happy with the EL34 amplifier at that voltage.
That would probably be the first time I have heard of such a low voltage at the customer end even in a remote farm. Surprised he is not using a swer (single wire earth return) if it is that bad. (not sure if they are even legal any more, bloody greenies).
I'm not sure what China gets however my advice is to shoot for 230 volt system, making it legal for Australia and most of Europe easily. And if China is 10 volts less then it shouldn't be too big of a problem.........just remember if your amps are geared around 220 volts then the 6.3 filament will be putting out 7.15V when connected to my supply at 250 volts, as compared to 6.8 V if you shoot for a 230 V system. Assuming of course un-regulated filament supply.
What is it for? A voltage gain of 11 is too much for most systems.siliconray said:
Officially Europe is 230V. This is just a typical EU bureaucratic fudge. In the UK most of us still get somewhere around 240V. Elsewhere people generally get somewhere around 220V. Ideally your transformer needs a tap. Failing that, design for 230V and hope that your customers are not too far off this. Use a double-pole mains switch. Mains safety is one of the areas where Chinese electronics has a bad reputation, so you can set a new trend and show others how it should be done.
Ray, it would be nice if I could get the schematic to download on to the page. The same thing is happening on the product page as well.
I'm curious as to why things are so hard to load.
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