• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Vacuum Tube OTL power amp!!

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8Hrs continuous,

Can't find the off switch..lol
No fatigue...strange listen all day?

:) :)


The Alpairs are getting a pasting... Cones moving oh yes...

Kraftwork..LOL <<shows the High freq....sounds Great! <<no tweeter!

Off topic just for interest:

Just for interest I made the Alpairs a while back with help from Dave and Chris (Planet 10)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/186352-book-shelf-speakers-se-tube.html

Regards
M. Gregg
 
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Alastair,

Thank you for all the help its been Great! :) <<< What you got on the cards next? <<my Grin emote is not working..LOL

It will be interesting to hear flatheadmurre's outcome. :)

I will let you know how it progresses over the next few weeks!
Shame there arn't a few more in progress!

Regards
M. Gregg
 
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Joined 2010
Just FWIW- over the years I've seen many of those with leakage problems... IMO its the worst 6SN7 ever made. If you are on a budget try the Chinese 6SN7, it sounds better and is a lot more reliable.

Ok thank's,

I will probably get some tung sol, it gets me going at the moment. I must admit it sounds great at the moment.
What do you regard as the best sn7?

Regards
M. Gregg
 
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Alastair,

Thank you for all the help its been Great! :) <<< What you got on the cards next? <<my Grin emote is not working..LOL

It will be interesting to hear flatheadmurre's outcome. :)

I will let you know how it progresses over the next few weeks!
Shame there arn't a few more in progress!

Regards
M. Gregg

Ha!--Great--You cant turn it off! It Must sound nice then!

As to whats next, Well......
--Maybe a super-high power version with a hurd of 6C33's and a sub-station driving 'em!:eek:

Nah--I'll continue to play around, maybe trying different pre and driver tubes, maybe increase the + - B rails, improve smoothing etc....

If I make any huge steps forward, I'll keep you posted...

Looking forward to Flatheadmurre's progress now!:)
 
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Ha!--Great--You cant turn it off! It Must sound nice then!

As to whats next, Well......
--Maybe a super-high power version with a hurd of 6C33's and a sub-station driving 'em!:eek:

Nah--I'll continue to play around, maybe trying different pre and driver tubes, maybe increase the + - B rails, improve smoothing etc....

If I make any huge steps forward, I'll keep you posted...

Looking forward to Flatheadmurre's progress now!:)

The 6h8c's comment from atmasphere has me concerned!
I will get some more..LOL

Thank's again...I will be interested in your progress. :)

Ouote,

"maybe increase the + - B rails, improve smoothing etc...."

800v 20A..LOL.

Regards
M. Gregg
 
Atmasphere's comments--well, Ive not had any of that particular make SN7, so could not say...

The Russian ones I have, are marked with a 5 sided symbol, and are fairly OK. One is a little michrophonic if you bang it with a spoon, but otherwise not bad...

The Russian Tung-Sols have been pretty good, no apparent michrophonics in the 'spoon test' and sections fairly well matched in each bottle. They appear pretty well made, and not of the 'usual Russian' construction, I only have the two of those though....

As to increasing the supply volts to the O/P stages, I was thinking maybe 175-200V, dont plan to go much higher, dissipation in the O/P stages, bigger cathode-resistors etc...

Going much higher than 200V I think would be not a huge benefit--but a lot more heat to think about....

For More power, I think that doubling up the O/P tubes is the way to go, but for me personally, the design as it stands supplies sufficient power, and more than enough heat for Winter!....
 
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Joined 2010
Atmasphere's comments--well, Ive not had any of that particular make SN7, so could not say...

The Russian ones I have, are marked with a 5 sided symbol, and are fairly OK. One is a little michrophonic if you bang it with a spoon, but otherwise not bad...

The Russian Tung-Sols have been pretty good, no apparent michrophonics in the 'spoon test' and sections fairly well matched in each bottle. They appear pretty well made, and not of the 'usual Russian' construction, I only have the two of those though....

As to increasing the supply volts to the O/P stages, I was thinking maybe 175-200V, dont plan to go much higher, dissipation in the O/P stages, bigger cathode-resistors etc...

Going much higher than 200V I think would be not a huge benefit--but a lot more heat to think about....

For More power, I think that doubling up the O/P tubes is the way to go, but for me personally, the design as it stands supplies sufficient power, and more than enough heat for Winter!....

I must admit it sounds great at the moment, I will be expecting leakage all the time, so I guess some new ones are on the cards.

Yes heat is an issue with these tubes, I only get it on the top plate now. If I could find a non metalic heat resisting material it would be perfect.

I thought about PTFE, but is hard to drill. :) It's not a real problem just thoughts to make it better!

Regards
M. Gregg
 
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Disabled Account
Joined 2010
Trying to straighten out my PSU design.

6800uF in each +-150 rail one dropping resistor.

With my 115v transformer not here i have to guess but seems like a little to less for real quite one ?

M Gregg did you go regulated for small signal HT ?

Do what you know works best for you,
You could use electronic choke.....

I Thought about using a Maida,
however I just used 47uF- 10H choke-47uF.
470K across the last cap. 50mA fuse.
Regulated DC heaters for first two 6SN7's.

The type of rectifier will make a difference...BYV96E or hex or standard + snub.

Regards
M. Gregg
 
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For rectifier it´s one fits all.

Meaning that i bought a reel of Philips BY 448 at sale and they will do.

Standard Avalanche,
Good spec 2A 1500V :)
The 6C33C stage required current not voltage so I used higher current diodes in this section..also inrush for the high capacitor values on each rail.
I used a 1K 12W on the common rail. 4700uF across each rail and 1000uF across the +/- rails and 4.7uF film cap.

Any snubbing?

Regards
M. Gregg
 
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