Metal parts coated with an oil based preservative can be easily cleaned in mineral spirits using a brush, and let them air dry. If you are extra “picky” wet a cloth with lacquer thinner and wipe them off thoroughly. If any rust appears before spraying, sand it lightly with 220 grit sandpaper. No need to run them through the wife’s dishwasher.
All bare metal needs primer before a color coat is applied. Most over the counter “rattle can” primer is crap. Body shop supply companies carry good primer in spray cans.The difference is the amount of solids contained. Unless your Chrysler paint is enamel, you want lacquer primer.
After applying 2-3 good coats, sand lightly until smooth using 220 or finer sandpaper. Wipe them off with a clean rag, and spray following manufacturer’s instructions.
The most common spraying errors are holding the can too close to the item being sprayed, and applying too much paint in each coat. I usually apply 3-5 coats, with some drying time between coats.
All bare metal needs primer before a color coat is applied. Most over the counter “rattle can” primer is crap. Body shop supply companies carry good primer in spray cans.The difference is the amount of solids contained. Unless your Chrysler paint is enamel, you want lacquer primer.
After applying 2-3 good coats, sand lightly until smooth using 220 or finer sandpaper. Wipe them off with a clean rag, and spray following manufacturer’s instructions.
The most common spraying errors are holding the can too close to the item being sprayed, and applying too much paint in each coat. I usually apply 3-5 coats, with some drying time between coats.
A transformer won't be "oily" like a new (or old) brake rotor.
Dishwasher, even glass-spray and clean paper towels, should get it off. Rinse, look how it "sheets off" or not. Put in a warm airy place to dry thoroughly.
The thread is "powder coat". If you got powder-coat, this is PLASTIC. Polystyrene or similar. Normal steel-car spray may not stick well. (May come off real easy...) I'd look to Testor's model-car paints.
If you are sure you got painted endbells, wash then sand with fine-fine grit. However getting in all the curves is impossible. And I know guys who just hit it (dirty) with Rust-o-leum and it looks great in pictures, does not fall off in road-tours. I used a Mercury-spec rattle-can for all sorts of markings after my Mercury fell apart.
Dishwasher, even glass-spray and clean paper towels, should get it off. Rinse, look how it "sheets off" or not. Put in a warm airy place to dry thoroughly.
The thread is "powder coat". If you got powder-coat, this is PLASTIC. Polystyrene or similar. Normal steel-car spray may not stick well. (May come off real easy...) I'd look to Testor's model-car paints.
If you are sure you got painted endbells, wash then sand with fine-fine grit. However getting in all the curves is impossible. And I know guys who just hit it (dirty) with Rust-o-leum and it looks great in pictures, does not fall off in road-tours. I used a Mercury-spec rattle-can for all sorts of markings after my Mercury fell apart.
I see some of you are skipping an important step, although maybe some primers (the good ones) include it in its chemistry.
Raw CRS (cold rolled steel) sheet iron used to make the endbells comes with untreated surface, just covered with some oil, mainly because it will be oiled anyway while being cut, stamped and punched.
It also provides a very basic rust protection, not much, just leave it in the rain and it will rust heavily.
So after processing and to reach the final state, it needs to be:
* degreased.
* surface treated meaning chemical oxide removal and surface "pitting" so it becomes less "mirror polished" and more rough , so it better takes paint.
If you can stabilize the surface against future oxidation, even better.
The first part, oxide removal and "pitting" (sorry I can´t find a better word which must certainly exist) is often called "pickling" and can be achieved by a (very) diluted acid bath, chlorhidric and sulfuric acid have both been used but if phosphoric acid is used, you can achieve "pickling" and also somewhat stabilize iron surface; so the stepI seeyou missing (or not mentioning) is Phosphatizing.
Some primers include it in the formulation (wash primers definitely do), others use other chemistry to prevent rust.
Proper surface preparation , even phosphatizing for the advantages it carries is used even if you later powder coat, is an extra safety layer.
Many just degrease and powder coat, trusting its thickness and great adhesion to metal surface, but I often see plain powdercoated parts which when nicked or scratched not only start rusting on the exposed surface (which is to be expected of course) but also rust "travels" under the powdercoated layer, eventually rising it and forming "rust bubbles".
I manufacture speakers for over 40 years now, precisely out of CRS sheet metal for frames, thicker one for magnet plates and cold rolled iron bars, all of which are bought untreated and oil covered.
Just tomorrow when I wake up I must visit my lathe guy to pick up 200 polepieces
My standard surface treatment today is blue passivated galvanizing (think Celestion guitar speakers) , which is cheap, *thin*, nice looking, provides excellent protection and cheap (guess I give cost a lot of importance ) but for small runs or prototypes or when in a real hurry to meet some urgent order, instead of galvanizing which may take 7 to 15 days (it´s outsourced) I jyst pull a few units from the main batch and do what I suggest above: degrease>phosphatize>car body type grey primer>car type paint which is what I am suggesting for your endbells.
Beautiful finish and the full cycle is completed in less than 2 hours for a small batch of, say, 2 to 20 speakers.
I use car type paints because they dry real fast just on very volatile thinner evaporation and require no drying/curing oven.
For *real* urgent jobs, Ieven skip the last "finish" paint job and just use the grey priming coat.
Speakers are perfectly protected, just they look dull gray, no big deal because those are not sold "alone" but mounted inside some guitar/bass/PA cabinet.
I sometimes get them for reconing (Musicians in general abuse their equipment) a few years later, and they look as good as new.
Mind you, Buenos Aires is a humid city, yet they hold very well.
My point being that a careful surface preparation, including phosphatizing, helps parts longevity.
Just check with your friendly car body shop, which might even paint your endbells in gorgeous colours or finish for peanuts.
And if you know a motorcycle paint shop, the sky is the limit, your endbells could receive the same art (and finish of course) as biker approved gas tanks
The shiny light blue shown above is fine, but what about something from plain:
to, say :
Raw CRS (cold rolled steel) sheet iron used to make the endbells comes with untreated surface, just covered with some oil, mainly because it will be oiled anyway while being cut, stamped and punched.
It also provides a very basic rust protection, not much, just leave it in the rain and it will rust heavily.
So after processing and to reach the final state, it needs to be:
* degreased.
* surface treated meaning chemical oxide removal and surface "pitting" so it becomes less "mirror polished" and more rough , so it better takes paint.
If you can stabilize the surface against future oxidation, even better.
The first part, oxide removal and "pitting" (sorry I can´t find a better word which must certainly exist) is often called "pickling" and can be achieved by a (very) diluted acid bath, chlorhidric and sulfuric acid have both been used but if phosphoric acid is used, you can achieve "pickling" and also somewhat stabilize iron surface; so the stepI seeyou missing (or not mentioning) is Phosphatizing.
Some primers include it in the formulation (wash primers definitely do), others use other chemistry to prevent rust.
Proper surface preparation , even phosphatizing for the advantages it carries is used even if you later powder coat, is an extra safety layer.
Many just degrease and powder coat, trusting its thickness and great adhesion to metal surface, but I often see plain powdercoated parts which when nicked or scratched not only start rusting on the exposed surface (which is to be expected of course) but also rust "travels" under the powdercoated layer, eventually rising it and forming "rust bubbles".
I manufacture speakers for over 40 years now, precisely out of CRS sheet metal for frames, thicker one for magnet plates and cold rolled iron bars, all of which are bought untreated and oil covered.
Just tomorrow when I wake up I must visit my lathe guy to pick up 200 polepieces
My standard surface treatment today is blue passivated galvanizing (think Celestion guitar speakers) , which is cheap, *thin*, nice looking, provides excellent protection and cheap (guess I give cost a lot of importance
) but for small runs or prototypes or when in a real hurry to meet some urgent order, instead of galvanizing which may take 7 to 15 days (it´s outsourced) I jyst pull a few units from the main batch and do what I suggest above: degrease>phosphatize>car body type grey primer>car type paint which is what I am suggesting for your endbells.Beautiful finish and the full cycle is completed in less than 2 hours
for a small batch of, say, 2 to 20 speakers.I use car type paints because they dry real fast just on very volatile thinner evaporation and require no drying/curing oven.
For *real* urgent jobs, Ieven skip the last "finish" paint job and just use the grey priming coat.
Speakers are perfectly protected, just they look dull gray, no big deal because those are not sold "alone" but mounted inside some guitar/bass/PA cabinet.
I sometimes get them for reconing (Musicians in general abuse their equipment) a few years later, and they look as good as new.
Mind you, Buenos Aires is a humid city, yet they hold very well.
My point being that a careful surface preparation, including phosphatizing, helps parts longevity.
Just check with your friendly car body shop, which might even paint your endbells in gorgeous colours or finish for peanuts.
And if you know a motorcycle paint shop, the sky is the limit, your endbells could receive the same art (and finish of course) as biker approved gas tanks
The shiny light blue shown above is fine, but what about something from plain:
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to, say :
I have recycled the end bells from power transformers removed from scrapped HP audio oscillators.
I visited a surplus shop where about 50 of these were sitting outside in the Florida rain waiting for a trip to the metal scrapper to be melted. I paid the metal value and took them all. I stripped them for the tubes, hardware and transformers, then left the remains for the recycler.
Some of the transformers were pretty rusty, some were reasonably clean, but even the rusty ones worked.....not a single transformer was dead even one that had water inside it. I kept the clean ones and took the rusty ones apart mostly for experiments and the end bells. They fit some open frame OPT's that I have.
I also removed the end bells from the HP transformers that I decided to reuse and repainted them. The laminations were repainted flat grey....do not sand the laminations, you will usually cause more damage, just paint over the rust with a paint made for rust, POR-15 if you can find it, otherwise Rustoleum.
I simply sand blasted the bells, concentrating on the rust. Sometimes the existing paint was completely removed, sometimes there were rust free patches left, especially in the corners.
I then cleaned them with lacquer thinner, working it into all the corners with a brush, and left them outside in the sun to dry. After a few minutes I brought them inside to reach room temp, then took them back outside and sprayed them with Krylon or Rustoleum gloss black spray paint made for use on "clean bare metal." I have had some of these in use for over 10 years now in guitar amps and they are still shiny.
I agree, a phosphate dip will help prevent future rust. It works by converting iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate (a hard black surface) which you can paint over. All iron, and most steel has rust beginning to form on the surface as soon as it is made. I used a product called Ospho (mostly phosphoric acid) on car parts when I used to build hot rods. I know people who claim that Coca Cola works too, but I never tried it. POR-15 paint has a rust converter in it. I used it on car flooring and it definitely helps control rust.
I visited a surplus shop where about 50 of these were sitting outside in the Florida rain waiting for a trip to the metal scrapper to be melted. I paid the metal value and took them all. I stripped them for the tubes, hardware and transformers, then left the remains for the recycler.
Some of the transformers were pretty rusty, some were reasonably clean, but even the rusty ones worked.....not a single transformer was dead even one that had water inside it. I kept the clean ones and took the rusty ones apart mostly for experiments and the end bells. They fit some open frame OPT's that I have.
I also removed the end bells from the HP transformers that I decided to reuse and repainted them. The laminations were repainted flat grey....do not sand the laminations, you will usually cause more damage, just paint over the rust with a paint made for rust, POR-15 if you can find it, otherwise Rustoleum.
I simply sand blasted the bells, concentrating on the rust. Sometimes the existing paint was completely removed, sometimes there were rust free patches left, especially in the corners.
I then cleaned them with lacquer thinner, working it into all the corners with a brush, and left them outside in the sun to dry. After a few minutes I brought them inside to reach room temp, then took them back outside and sprayed them with Krylon or Rustoleum gloss black spray paint made for use on "clean bare metal." I have had some of these in use for over 10 years now in guitar amps and they are still shiny.
I agree, a phosphate dip will help prevent future rust. It works by converting iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate (a hard black surface) which you can paint over. All iron, and most steel has rust beginning to form on the surface as soon as it is made. I used a product called Ospho (mostly phosphoric acid) on car parts when I used to build hot rods. I know people who claim that Coca Cola works too, but I never tried it. POR-15 paint has a rust converter in it. I used it on car flooring and it definitely helps control rust.
One thing to remember is that EDCOR does DIY transformers as a secondary sales. The are primairly a custom sales company. This is one reason delivery times are so varied. If they have a big contract, DIY orders wait.
With this in mind, I seriously doubt changing the color of their DIY transformers would change their sales by any significant amount.
I like the blue.
With this in mind, I seriously doubt changing the color of their DIY transformers would change their sales by any significant amount.
I like the blue.
Hello everyone,
So much to my surprise, and the car dealer, the 7-10 day wait on getting the paint turned out to be 2 days. The paint can says it's acrylic lacquer. So knowing that, is there anything special I need to do besides priming the metal to spraying this stuff? Is there a special primer I need to use? I asked the dealer and they didn't know. Mind you, this Chrysler dealer has 2 bays!
Thanks
Ray
So much to my surprise, and the car dealer, the 7-10 day wait on getting the paint turned out to be 2 days. The paint can says it's acrylic lacquer. So knowing that, is there anything special I need to do besides priming the metal to spraying this stuff? Is there a special primer I need to use? I asked the dealer and they didn't know. Mind you, this Chrysler dealer has 2 bays!
Thanks
Ray
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