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Baby Huey components

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WindChill

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Joined 2002
Hi all,

I've been through the Baby Huey thread more than once and I'm starting to put the components together for a pair of monoblocks. I've ordered the iron, and most of the other components seem straightforward, but I'm kind of unsure about the caps. Looks like Black Gate is out of production and I'm not sure what I'm looking for. One of the caps is shown as "SMR" and I'm not familiar with that one either.

Anyone have any advice on caps in particular and components in general?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
boywonder

boywonder

Member
Joined 2008
Michael Percy Audio still sells black gates, although the selection is getting a little thin.

http://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf

For the HV electrolytic caps in the PS, use low ESR caps with good life and temp ratings, like Panasonic TS-HA (400V), TS-HB (450V) available at Digi-Key. Allied electronics also sells Cornell Dublier HV caps.

Are you building the original version or the MOSFET coupled version?


 
W

WindChill

Member
Joined 2002
boywonder said:
Michael Percy Audio still sells black gates, although the selection is getting a little thin.

http://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf

For the HV electrolytic caps in the PS, use low ESR caps with good life and temp ratings, like Panasonic TS-HA (400V), TS-HB (450V) available at Digi-Key. Allied electronics also sells Cornell Dublier HV caps.

Are you building the original version or the MOSFET coupled version?
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm using the schematic on the first page of the thread, so the original?
 
boywonder

boywonder

Member
Joined 2008
I don't know what SMR is either, but you want a good quality film cap there as a bypass cap for the large value electrolytics, like a WIMA MKP, etc.

PPS is a polypropylene Sulfide film cap.

EDIT: SMR is Evox Rifa SMR Series.

Gingertube discusses them here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tube...ed-metalized-polypropylene-caps-digi-key.html

If you want to go a little more upscale you could use film/foil caps instead of metallized film, although I don't know if there will be any sonic difference.
 
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W

WindChill

Member
Joined 2002
boywonder said:
Yes, the early design without MOSFETs. That's what I built, and it sounds very nice. I used Orange Drop .22u/630V coupling caps; they are very inexpensive, although there are lots of choices for these.
Click to expand...

I think I sourced WIMAs for those but the Orange Drops might be easier to work with.

The ones I'm having trouble with are the 100uF 385V in the amplifier, and the Bias Block and CCS caps (47uF 35V, 22uF 6.3V, 470uF 63V, and the 1uF 63V SMR). When I search for those at DigiKey and Mouser I seem to get ridiculously expensive caps -- like $100 -- so I must be looking for the wrong caps.

Any direction on the Bias and CCS caps?
 
boywonder

boywonder

Member
Joined 2008
WindChill said:
I think I sourced WIMAs for those but the Orange Drops might be easier to work with.

The ones I'm having trouble with are the 100uF 385V in the amplifier, and the Bias Block and CCS caps (47uF 35V, 22uF 6.3V, 470uF 63V, and the 1uF 63V SMR). When I search for those at DigiKey and Mouser I seem to get ridiculously expensive caps -- like $100 -- so I must be looking for the wrong caps.

Any direction on the Bias and CCS caps?
Click to expand...

At the risk of stating the obvious......you can use caps rated for higher voltages without issue. They give you additional dielectric safety margin, have lower ESR, but will take up a little more space.

You can try both the WIMA's and orange drops for coupling caps......easy enough, and cheap.

For a 100u/385V, look at Panasonic TS-HA 100u/400V Digi-Key P/N P-6873-ND or P-6842-ND. Same values, slightly different form factor.

For the 47uF 35V, 22uF 6.3V, 470uF 63V electrolytics, you could go Nichicon Muse (also available from Michael Percy and a few other suppliers) or Black Gates, or select some Panasonic FM, ED, etc series from Digi-key, they are sub $1 or a couple bucks each max.

For the bypass cap look at WIMA, solen, etc. they are going to be a couple of $$ each.
 
W

WindChill

Member
Joined 2002
boywonder said:
At the risk of stating the obvious......you can use caps rated for higher voltages without issue. They give you additional dielectric safety margin, have lower ESR, but will take up a little more space.

You can try both the WIMA's and orange drops for coupling caps......easy enough, and cheap.

For a 100u/385V, look at Panasonic TS-HA 100u/400V Digi-Key P/N P-6873-ND or P-6842-ND. Same values, slightly different form factor.

For the 47uF 35V, 22uF 6.3V, 470uF 63V electrolytics, you could go Nichicon Muse (also available from Michael Percy and a few other suppliers) or Black Gates, or select some Panasonic FM, ED, etc series from Digi-key, they are sub $1 or a couple bucks each max.

For the bypass cap look at WIMA, solen, etc. they are going to be a couple of $$ each.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I don't think the obvious is ever wasted on me. :eek: I'll see what I can find but I appreciate the advice. That helps a lot.
 
A

adamus

Member
Joined 2008
good luck with the build. since building the baby huey i have built a couple more amps.... and guess what is still in my system - the huey.

my favourite front end tube was the techtube 12ax7 replacement. they went bust but if could get your hands on them, sound superb in the huey.

I used a choke in the powersupply. stealth diodes > 4uf obbligatio oil > 193H (hammond) choke > 220uf 450v caps. no hum what so ever
 
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W

WindChill

Member
Joined 2002
adamus said:
good luck with the build. since building the baby huey i have built a couple more amps.... and guess what is still in my system - the huey.

my favourite front end tube was the techtube 12ax7 replacement. they went bust but if could get your hands on them, sound superb in the huey.

I used a choke in the powersupply. stealth diodes > 4uf obbligatio oil > 193H (hammond) choke > 220uf 450v caps. no hum what so ever
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm looking forward to it. I should have all the parts next week and I can get started on the build. :D
 
W

WindChill

Member
Joined 2002
boywonder said:
I also built mine as a CLC with 1200V Fairchild Stealth diodes. The 600V rated Stealth diodes are not rated high enough for FWCT rectification with a 275V transformer......Bypassing the diodes with 10nf 2kv film caps is also a good idea.
Click to expand...

I ordered a pair of Hammond chokes for a CLC configuration but I'm going to have to go through the thread again for more information on this. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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