Hello All;
It has been awhile, My original sse is still kicking ***, Thanks George!
I have a pair of psvane 300B tubes (yikes holy expensive batman)
any way, I have decided to scrap the 300b amp they were intended for,and my humble apologies for not going with a trusted Amp source in the begining.
I have down loaded the latest bom, schematic and pcb plan, read the forum notes, head is spinning.
My question(s) is, are, the bom list is this a specific list for a 300b tube? pp or se?
also some pt are mentioned, as I am a fan of edcore, is there a highly recommended pt from them that has worked in a build?
Thanks in advance.
It has been awhile, My original sse is still kicking ***, Thanks George!
I have a pair of psvane 300B tubes (yikes holy expensive batman)
any way, I have decided to scrap the 300b amp they were intended for,and my humble apologies for not going with a trusted Amp source in the begining.
I have down loaded the latest bom, schematic and pcb plan, read the forum notes, head is spinning.
My question(s) is, are, the bom list is this a specific list for a 300b tube? pp or se?
also some pt are mentioned, as I am a fan of edcore, is there a highly recommended pt from them that has worked in a build?
Thanks in advance.
There are only a few parts that are different between the 300b and 45/2a3 builds and are listed in the notes file on the same page as the bom. The tseii is still a se amp like the original tse. Im running a edcor xpwr 178 that has all the right voltages for a tseii 300b build.
I have on hand, The Edcore..Power transformer..xpwr035... 120V, 60Hz. line to 740V (370-0-370) at 200mA center tapped, 6.3V (3.15-0-3.15) at 5A center tapped and 5V at 2A.
This should work no?
This is very close to other builds using xpwr178, with the amps being slightly different. here is the 178
120V or 240V, 50/60Hz. line to 660V (330-0-330) at 200mA center tapped, 6.3V (3.15-0-3.15) at 6A center tapped and 5V (2.5-0-2.5) at 3A center tapped.
This should work no?
This is very close to other builds using xpwr178, with the amps being slightly different. here is the 178
120V or 240V, 50/60Hz. line to 660V (330-0-330) at 200mA center tapped, 6.3V (3.15-0-3.15) at 6A center tapped and 5V (2.5-0-2.5) at 3A center tapped.
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Here's what I know. With the 370-0-370 and a GZ34 rectifier you're looking at nearly 420v B+. Is that what you're after?
The first cap (C4) will get a good whack at power-on, so you'll probably have to rate it ~500v or higher. The rectifier will be stressed without some form of soft start.
The Edcor 330-0-330 is closer to 370 B+.
The first cap (C4) will get a good whack at power-on, so you'll probably have to rate it ~500v or higher. The rectifier will be stressed without some form of soft start.
The Edcor 330-0-330 is closer to 370 B+.
Well seemed like an eternity....the new edcore arrived.330-0-330 or xpwr178-120.
All wired, initial check
B+ -00
B- -169( r6)
Rectifier in.
R30. B+ 428
R6. B- -169
Pins 2 5.2v. 8. 1.3v
Added small tubes 5832
Adjusted to lowest v...approx 140 then moved up to 160v measured at coupling caps.
Installed 300 B
Played some music....adjusted 300b to approx 280/300 v. Music( one side only) went from low volume and distorted to clear and louder
Having trouble with locating issue.
Read a ton on the forum, going in to re check based on the info obtained.
Here are a couple pics.
All wired, initial check
B+ -00
B- -169( r6)
Rectifier in.
R30. B+ 428
R6. B- -169
Pins 2 5.2v. 8. 1.3v
Added small tubes 5832
Adjusted to lowest v...approx 140 then moved up to 160v measured at coupling caps.
Installed 300 B
Played some music....adjusted 300b to approx 280/300 v. Music( one side only) went from low volume and distorted to clear and louder
Having trouble with locating issue.
Read a ton on the forum, going in to re check based on the info obtained.
Here are a couple pics.
Attachments
Back with some more data.
B+ at r 30. 297v
B- at r6. -427
Voltage across choke. 7.5vac. Or 35vdc
300b tubes....pins 2 at 258v after adjusting
C9 295v
C11 258v
Sound from one channel only (right) is clean....not to loud ..small opt may be to blame.
Traced everything no shorts.
Checked bom and notes...all seems correct.
Measured about 260v going into opt's
Working opt approx .3 to 1 v out to speakers
Nothing on left side.
Possible one opt is no good?
Also.
Pulled 300's out...
Pin1 4vdc
Pin2 300 and 327
Pin3 -43 and - 108 to -111
5832's
Pin1 260 working side or left and 183vdc non working
Pin3 both 5v
Pin6 working side 4.87 and non w...3.1
Sadly my mm only has 200m for measuring the MA.
Will have to locate a mm the measures 2000m.
Until then....any suggestions?
Thank you to all !!!
B+ at r 30. 297v
B- at r6. -427
Voltage across choke. 7.5vac. Or 35vdc
300b tubes....pins 2 at 258v after adjusting
C9 295v
C11 258v
Sound from one channel only (right) is clean....not to loud ..small opt may be to blame.
Traced everything no shorts.
Checked bom and notes...all seems correct.
Measured about 260v going into opt's
Working opt approx .3 to 1 v out to speakers
Nothing on left side.
Possible one opt is no good?
Also.
Pulled 300's out...
Pin1 4vdc
Pin2 300 and 327
Pin3 -43 and - 108 to -111
5832's
Pin1 260 working side or left and 183vdc non working
Pin3 both 5v
Pin6 working side 4.87 and non w...3.1
Sadly my mm only has 200m for measuring the MA.
Will have to locate a mm the measures 2000m.
Until then....any suggestions?
Thank you to all !!!
so I went back in today, I removed the working opt from the binding post using alligator clips and removing non working opt from its post, connect the working opt to those post, no sound,Strange yes! reconnect to original post and sound.
for ***** and giggles I applied the non working opt via the clips to the working post and wait for it....No sound. I was not surprised by this.
How ever the first test did surprise me...as the channel supporting the working opt is what drives the working speaker. it should have driven the other side.
next is to remove the post and connect the opt direct to speaker banana plugs. hope is to rule out the post ( ground fault) also considering the potentiometer could be faulty on one side, just guessing here as the opt test did not provide solid evidence to support the vol pot.
Any way.....the investigation continues.....Again any help is very much appreciated!
for ***** and giggles I applied the non working opt via the clips to the working post and wait for it....No sound. I was not surprised by this.
How ever the first test did surprise me...as the channel supporting the working opt is what drives the working speaker. it should have driven the other side.
next is to remove the post and connect the opt direct to speaker banana plugs. hope is to rule out the post ( ground fault) also considering the potentiometer could be faulty on one side, just guessing here as the opt test did not provide solid evidence to support the vol pot.
Any way.....the investigation continues.....Again any help is very much appreciated!
live updates....
firstly, I made sure the bias and other v were adjusted again to bring into spec.
Using the banana plugs, connected the speakers directly to the opt's sound from one channel loud and clear. the other channel is very low nearly in audiable.
had to disconnect the working speaker( 6ohm resistor in place) just to be able to hear the other side. switching opt the sound came alive in the speaker.
I am leaning heavily towards a bad opt...may have happened in the other application.
Any way before I order new opt's( larger/more iron) is there any other test or part I should look at.
Oh and still with bringing bias (r18 r29) and c11---c9 into spec the v across the choke is still only about 7.5 to 8 v
it is btw a 159ohm 200ma
firstly, I made sure the bias and other v were adjusted again to bring into spec.
Using the banana plugs, connected the speakers directly to the opt's sound from one channel loud and clear. the other channel is very low nearly in audiable.
had to disconnect the working speaker( 6ohm resistor in place) just to be able to hear the other side. switching opt the sound came alive in the speaker.
I am leaning heavily towards a bad opt...may have happened in the other application.
Any way before I order new opt's( larger/more iron) is there any other test or part I should look at.
Oh and still with bringing bias (r18 r29) and c11---c9 into spec the v across the choke is still only about 7.5 to 8 v
it is btw a 159ohm 200ma
yes, they measure the same for both opt's
0 on the output side( this case white and purple
182 for the winding ( red and blue , was not really a question as to a plea for help, I know I am missing a check point, after everything I have posted regarding the checks and readings, was hoping for guidance on that missing check.
Thanks for the reply
0 on the output side( this case white and purple
182 for the winding ( red and blue , was not really a question as to a plea for help, I know I am missing a check point, after everything I have posted regarding the checks and readings, was hoping for guidance on that missing check.
Thanks for the reply
If I understand correctly, one channel was OK, but neither OPT has a resistance on the secondary winding? That sounds a bit odd.
Looking at your pictures, it looks like you might have made your task a bit hard for yourself. I presume that you have built the board into the case, and are attempting to solve the issues with it in place? Also you don't seem to have used connection blocks, which limits your options a bit in testing, and ease of switching things around to eliminate issues. And some of the soldering looks a bit skimpy, with plenty of the copper pad surface visible.
Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forwards, so I think I would be tempted to try and put the board on a wooden base, use the PCB connection blocks (or use electricians connectiong blocks - we call them 'sugar cubes' in Sweden). Reflow the solder joints, and plan a systematic approach to start up and test. A variac really is so useful when commissioning the board, and I even use a dim bulb in series with that for belts and braces. You really want to try and record the voltages from ground to each tube pin, and sanity check that (report that here). If you have those correct, then it is likely a misconnection of one of the peripherals (probably OPT). I was super careful with my SSE, but still managed to have one connected to the opposite channel to the UL winding!
Looking at your pictures, it looks like you might have made your task a bit hard for yourself. I presume that you have built the board into the case, and are attempting to solve the issues with it in place? Also you don't seem to have used connection blocks, which limits your options a bit in testing, and ease of switching things around to eliminate issues. And some of the soldering looks a bit skimpy, with plenty of the copper pad surface visible.
Sometimes you have to go backwards to go forwards, so I think I would be tempted to try and put the board on a wooden base, use the PCB connection blocks (or use electricians connectiong blocks - we call them 'sugar cubes' in Sweden). Reflow the solder joints, and plan a systematic approach to start up and test. A variac really is so useful when commissioning the board, and I even use a dim bulb in series with that for belts and braces. You really want to try and record the voltages from ground to each tube pin, and sanity check that (report that here). If you have those correct, then it is likely a misconnection of one of the peripherals (probably OPT). I was super careful with my SSE, but still managed to have one connected to the opposite channel to the UL winding!
