I'll let the other thread dies and replaces it with this one. It'll be my build journal.
I took the plunge yesterday and ordered the parts to populate the SSE board, waiting on George's response to order the PCB from him.
I'll go for Toroidy's OPTs as a first project, and I quite like the round shape. I'll order two of these. Are these the correct ones?
Also, there are two models, one more expensive that the other one, but it's just because it comes with a kind of polished case, am I correct? Is it easy to find third-party enclosure for the OPTs if I don't order them from Toroidy?
I cannot seem to be able to find the correct power transformer on Toroidy's website, could anyone help me out?
Should I get the choke from Toroidy's as well or opt for a cheaper one?
Is this a good choice for a coupling cap? I could also go for the Jantzen ones, but I'm a little lost here. Any advice would be welcome.
I took the plunge yesterday and ordered the parts to populate the SSE board, waiting on George's response to order the PCB from him.
I'll go for Toroidy's OPTs as a first project, and I quite like the round shape. I'll order two of these. Are these the correct ones?
Also, there are two models, one more expensive that the other one, but it's just because it comes with a kind of polished case, am I correct? Is it easy to find third-party enclosure for the OPTs if I don't order them from Toroidy?
I cannot seem to be able to find the correct power transformer on Toroidy's website, could anyone help me out?
Should I get the choke from Toroidy's as well or opt for a cheaper one?
Is this a good choice for a coupling cap? I could also go for the Jantzen ones, but I'm a little lost here. Any advice would be welcome.
The Jantzen is a lot cheaper. 0.47uF Superior Z-Cap | RumoH - Caps, Coils and Speakers and similar in quality to the Auricap XO.
And has better a voltage rating. The XO has a 200VDC rating....(Which is ok) But the Jantzen 800VDC.
And has better a voltage rating. The XO has a 200VDC rating....(Which is ok) But the Jantzen 800VDC.
Correct.
Not hard...you could even get square ones if you like.
I think the SSE uses EL34? So you'll need: TTG-EL34SE - Tube output UL transformer [3,2kOhm] EL34 / 6L6 SE - Shop Toroidy.pl
This one has an impedance of 3.2kOhm, Georges stated that the SSE needs 5kOhm ideally, so I think the one I linked earlier will work perfectly.
I intend to use KT88 on my amp, will it work even though it's not stated?
I used the EL34 SE toroids from Toroidy in my SSE build, and I consider them to be excellent!
I also balked at the cost of the polished stainless steel potted versions. It is possible to buy metal covers for unfinished toroids, but they can be another €10 each. Sonically, I don't think there is a difference, but I think it hinges on how you want to present your work when you finish.
I also use a Toroidy PT. I just gave them the required specs, and it was a minimal charge for them to provide a custom solution. Just drop them an email. (I'll see if I can find my invoice)
(No affiliation to Toroidy - just a satisfied customer).
I also balked at the cost of the polished stainless steel potted versions. It is possible to buy metal covers for unfinished toroids, but they can be another €10 each. Sonically, I don't think there is a difference, but I think it hinges on how you want to present your work when you finish.
I also use a Toroidy PT. I just gave them the required specs, and it was a minimal charge for them to provide a custom solution. Just drop them an email. (I'll see if I can find my invoice)
(No affiliation to Toroidy - just a satisfied customer).
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That's great news, thanks for the tip! It does sound like the Toroidys are very good, it'll be around 220euros for OPTs + PT. Which is very much fine by me.
I have another question: in the parts list, it says 'two output tubes' (I'll get KT88s), and a single 12AT7 tube.
On most build, I see four tubes. Is this the 'tube rectifier' version? If so, what is that exactly?
Is my choice of a 12AT7 going to make a difference in sound, or only the output tubes will?
On most build, I see four tubes. Is this the 'tube rectifier' version? If so, what is that exactly?
Is my choice of a 12AT7 going to make a difference in sound, or only the output tubes will?
One output tube per channel is what makes it a Single Ended (SE) amp.
SSE = Simple Single Ended. There is a separate rectumfinder tube and one 12AT7 tube. Two sections on the 12AT7 tube, so you only need one driver tube for the amplifier. There are subtle differences between brands of tubes. Since there's only one per amp, tube rolling may commence at a lower price point.
SSE = Simple Single Ended. There is a separate rectumfinder tube and one 12AT7 tube. Two sections on the 12AT7 tube, so you only need one driver tube for the amplifier. There are subtle differences between brands of tubes. Since there's only one per amp, tube rolling may commence at a lower price point.
You will need 2 X KT88, one 12AT7/ECC81, and one 5AR4/GZ34 for the SSE.
The 12AT7 and ECC81 are the same tube just US / Euro designations. You can use a tube with either, or both numbers. Ditto the 5AR4/GZ34.
The European KT88 and US 6550 are very similar but not totally identical tubes. Either can be used in the SSE.
I got your order and it will be shipped tomorrow. I'll email you the tracking number tonight.
The 12AT7 and ECC81 are the same tube just US / Euro designations. You can use a tube with either, or both numbers. Ditto the 5AR4/GZ34.
The European KT88 and US 6550 are very similar but not totally identical tubes. Either can be used in the SSE.
I got your order and it will be shipped tomorrow. I'll email you the tracking number tonight.
Caps are caps. Laws of physics don't change. Congratulations to anyone who can hear a difference between caps made of beeswax and caps made of gold and fairy dust. I put Illinois (IC) yellow caps in my SSE and it sounds good to me.
As for the driver tube- I would buy the least expensive for now. Listen to the amp after you build it, then roll some tubes.
As for the driver tube- I would buy the least expensive for now. Listen to the amp after you build it, then roll some tubes.
Either one of those will be "fine" as a starter 12AT7.
Some people report that the quality of driver tube can be just as important (perhaps more so) than the power tubes. It is all very subjective and depends a lot on all the other pieces of your sound system, so there is no way to know whether you will notice a difference or not.
Regarding rectification - this converts AC power to DC that the amp can use. The SSE can use either solid state rectification (via diodes) or tube rectification (via 5AR4, 5U4-GB, etc.). If you plan to use solid state rectification then you don't need that tube. SS rectification is more efficient, so your B+ voltage will be significantly higher and more "stout". Despite this, most SSE builders choose tube rectification.
Some people report that the quality of driver tube can be just as important (perhaps more so) than the power tubes. It is all very subjective and depends a lot on all the other pieces of your sound system, so there is no way to know whether you will notice a difference or not.
Regarding rectification - this converts AC power to DC that the amp can use. The SSE can use either solid state rectification (via diodes) or tube rectification (via 5AR4, 5U4-GB, etc.). If you plan to use solid state rectification then you don't need that tube. SS rectification is more efficient, so your B+ voltage will be significantly higher and more "stout". Despite this, most SSE builders choose tube rectification.
These Mundorf are even cheaper than the one I could find on Digikey. I was just wondering if they would work. As in, are they too big or not rated correctly.
That's interesting, I didn't have this information even though I read a lot of things about the SSE.
Is their a way to make the amp able to do both? As in, freely switch bewteen diode rectification and tube rectification? I'd like to experience both. Though more power sounds like something I'd like. I need something around 15W per channels.
Yes. You can install a switch which will allow you to switch between SS and tube rectification. Very simple - George designed it this way.
I recommend reading the entire SSE page(s) at least 3 times before beginning.
15W per channel in ultralinear mode is a no-brainer with KT-88, regardless of rectification method (especially considering your 3.2K OPTs).
I recommend reading the entire SSE page(s) at least 3 times before beginning.
15W per channel in ultralinear mode is a no-brainer with KT-88, regardless of rectification method (especially considering your 3.2K OPTs).
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Head over to George's website. It is the official repository of all things George has done with his designs.
Under the SSE tab for his designs, read each page carefully as it gives tips, recommendations, and all the instructions you might require to build your Tubelab SSE tube amplifier. George has done all the leg work and presented it there for everyone to see.
Want to switch between SS rectification and tube rectification? It is there along with colourful diagrams.
Wiring Diagrams | Tubelab
Recommended parts and components? It is there. Recommended values while testing and during the operation of the amplifier? It is there.
Troubleshooting a problem that you just can't get a grip on? A how to question? An opinion on a certain change you might want deviating from the original design? How would light coloured wood might look versus a plain black painted chassis? Well, ask away here in these forums and provide lots and lots of up close photographs and someone will answer.
Good luck in your build, it is really a nice amp to listen to.
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Everything's ordered and I'll start building as soon as I receive the components.
I was wondering whether it would be possible to include an Arduino in my SSE build, hooked to a screen monitoring watt per channel, time since I turned on the amp, temperature, etc.
I looked through the forum but can't seem to find anyone who's done it before.
I was wondering whether it would be possible to include an Arduino in my SSE build, hooked to a screen monitoring watt per channel, time since I turned on the amp, temperature, etc.
I looked through the forum but can't seem to find anyone who's done it before.
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