European SSE build - Page 2

calmant · 13th January 2021, 05:27 PM

I have another question: in the parts list, it says 'two output tubes' (I'll get KT88s), and a single 12AT7 tube.

On most build, I see four tubes. Is this the 'tube rectifier' version? If so, what is that exactly?
Is my choice of a 12AT7 going to make a difference in sound, or only the output tubes will?

Duke58 · 13th January 2021, 05:43 PM

One output tube per channel is what makes it a Single Ended (SE) amp.

SSE = Simple Single Ended. There is a separate rectumfinder tube and one 12AT7 tube. Two sections on the 12AT7 tube, so you only need one driver tube for the amplifier. There are subtle differences between brands of tubes. Since there's only one per amp, tube rolling may commence at a lower price point.

Tubelab_com · 13th January 2021, 05:51 PM

You will need 2 X KT88, one 12AT7/ECC81, and one 5AR4/GZ34 for the SSE.

The 12AT7 and ECC81 are the same tube just US / Euro designations. You can use a tube with either, or both numbers. Ditto the 5AR4/GZ34.

The European KT88 and US 6550 are very similar but not totally identical tubes. Either can be used in the SSE.

I got your order and it will be shipped tomorrow. I'll email you the tracking number tonight.

calmant · 13th January 2021, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duke58

One output tube per channel is what makes it a Single Ended (SE) amp.

SSE = Simple Single Ended. There is a separate rectumfinder tube and one 12AT7 tube. Two sections on the 12AT7 tube, so you only need one driver tube for the amplifier. There are subtle differences between brands of tubes. Since there's only one per amp, tube rolling may commence at a lower price point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tubelab_com

You will need 2 X KT88, one 12AT7/ECC81, and one 5AR4/GZ34 for the SSE.

The 12AT7 and ECC81 are the same tube just US / Euro designations. You can use a tube with either, or both numbers. Ditto the 5AR4/GZ34.

The European KT88 and US 6550 are very similar but not totally identical tubes. Either can be used in the SSE.

I got your order and it will be shipped tomorrow. I'll email you the tracking number tonight.

Thanks for the clarifications.

Will these works as coupling caps? They're rated 630VDC.

About the 12AT7 tubes, will tube rolling these make any difference to the sound? As a starting tube, I can either get this one or that one. Any pointers?

Duke58 · 13th January 2021, 06:14 PM

Caps are caps. Laws of physics don't change. Congratulations to anyone who can hear a difference between caps made of beeswax and caps made of gold and fairy dust. I put Illinois (IC) yellow caps in my SSE and it sounds good to me.

As for the driver tube- I would buy the least expensive for now. Listen to the amp after you build it, then roll some tubes.

cogitech · 13th January 2021, 06:17 PM

Either one of those will be "fine" as a starter 12AT7.

Some people report that the quality of driver tube can be just as important (perhaps more so) than the power tubes. It is all very subjective and depends a lot on all the other pieces of your sound system, so there is no way to know whether you will notice a difference or not.

Regarding rectification - this converts AC power to DC that the amp can use. The SSE can use either solid state rectification (via diodes) or tube rectification (via 5AR4, 5U4-GB, etc.). If you plan to use solid state rectification then you don't need that tube. SS rectification is more efficient, so your B+ voltage will be significantly higher and more "stout". Despite this, most SSE builders choose tube rectification.

calmant · 13th January 2021, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duke58

Caps are caps. Laws of physics don't change. Congratulations to anyone who can hear a difference between caps made of beeswax and caps made of gold and fairy dust. I put Illinois (IC) yellow caps in my SSE and it sounds good to me.

As for the driver tube- I would buy the least expensive for now. Listen to the amp after you build it, then roll some tubes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duke58

Caps are caps. Laws of physics don't change. Congratulations to anyone who can hear a difference between caps made of beeswax and caps made of gold and fairy dust. I put Illinois (IC) yellow caps in my SSE and it sounds good to me.

As for the driver tube- I would buy the least expensive for now. Listen to the amp after you build it, then roll some tubes.

These Mundorf are even cheaper than the one I could find on Digikey. I was just wondering if they would work. As in, are they too big or not rated correctly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cogitech

Either one of those will be "fine" as a starter 12AT7.

Some people report that the quality of driver tube can be just as important (perhaps more so) than the power tubes. It is all very subjective and depends a lot on all the other pieces of your sound system, so there is no way to know whether you will notice a difference or not.

Regarding rectification - this converts AC power to DC that the amp can use. The SSE can use either solid state rectification (via diodes) or tube rectification (via 5AR4, 5U4-GB, etc.). If you plan to use solid state rectification then you don't need that tube. SS rectification is more efficient, so your B+ voltage will be significantly higher and more "stout". Despite this, most SSE builders choose tube rectification.

That's interesting, I didn't have this information even though I read a lot of things about the SSE.

Is their a way to make the amp able to do both? As in, freely switch bewteen diode rectification and tube rectification? I'd like to experience both. Though more power sounds like something I'd like. I need something around 15W per channels.

cogitech · 06:36 PM

Yes. You can install a switch which will allow you to switch between SS and tube rectification. Very simple - George designed it this way.

I recommend reading the entire SSE page(s) at least 3 times before beginning.

15W per channel in ultralinear mode is a no-brainer with KT-88, regardless of rectification method (especially considering your 3.2K OPTs).

overtheairbroadcast · 06:35 PM

Quote:

That's interesting, I didn't have this information even though I read a lot of things about the SSE.

Is their a way to make the amp able to do both? As in, freely switch bewteen diode rectification and tube rectification? I'd like to experience both. Though more power sounds like something I'd like. I need something around 15W per channels.

Head over to George's website. It is the official repository of all things George has done with his designs.

Under the SSE tab for his designs, read each page carefully as it gives tips, recommendations, and all the instructions you might require to build your Tubelab SSE tube amplifier. George has done all the leg work and presented it there for everyone to see.

Want to switch between SS rectification and tube rectification? It is there along with colourful diagrams.

Wiring Diagrams | Tubelab

Recommended parts and components? It is there. Recommended values while testing and during the operation of the amplifier? It is there.

Troubleshooting a problem that you just can't get a grip on? A how to question? An opinion on a certain change you might want deviating from the original design? How would light coloured wood might look versus a plain black painted chassis? Well, ask away here in these forums and provide lots and lots of up close photographs and someone will answer.

Good luck in your build, it is really a nice amp to listen to.

calmant · 15th January 2021, 12:45 PM

Everything's ordered and I'll start building as soon as I receive the components.

I was wondering whether it would be possible to include an Arduino in my SSE build, hooked to a screen monitoring watt per channel, time since I turned on the amp, temperature, etc.

I looked through the forum but can't seem to find anyone who's done it before.

13th January 2021, 05:51 PM	#13
Tubelab_com diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: West Virginia panhandle	You will need 2 X KT88, one 12AT7/ECC81, and one 5AR4/GZ34 for the SSE. The 12AT7 and ECC81 are the same tube just US / Euro designations. You can use a tube with either, or both numbers. Ditto the 5AR4/GZ34. The European KT88 and US 6550 are very similar but not totally identical tubes. Either can be used in the SSE. I got your order and it will be shipped tomorrow. I'll email you the tracking number tonight. __________________ Tubelab, I blow stuff up so that you don't have to.

13th January 2021, 06:27 PM	#18
cogitech diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Kamloops, BC	Yes. You can install a switch which will allow you to switch between SS and tube rectification. Very simple - George designed it this way. I recommend reading the entire SSE page(s) at least 3 times before beginning. 15W per channel in ultralinear mode is a no-brainer with KT-88, regardless of rectification method (especially considering your 3.2K OPTs). Last edited by cogitech; 13th January 2021 at 06:36 PM.

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13th January 2021, 05:27 PM	#11
calmant diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: Brussels	I have another question: in the parts list, it says 'two output tubes' (I'll get KT88s), and a single 12AT7 tube. On most build, I see four tubes. Is this the 'tube rectifier' version? If so, what is that exactly? Is my choice of a 12AT7 going to make a difference in sound, or only the output tubes will?

13th January 2021, 05:43 PM	#12
Duke58 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2009	One output tube per channel is what makes it a Single Ended (SE) amp. SSE = Simple Single Ended. There is a separate rectumfinder tube and one 12AT7 tube. Two sections on the 12AT7 tube, so you only need one driver tube for the amplifier. There are subtle differences between brands of tubes. Since there's only one per amp, tube rolling may commence at a lower price point.

13th January 2021, 06:14 PM	#15
Duke58 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2009	Caps are caps. Laws of physics don't change. Congratulations to anyone who can hear a difference between caps made of beeswax and caps made of gold and fairy dust. I put Illinois (IC) yellow caps in my SSE and it sounds good to me. As for the driver tube- I would buy the least expensive for now. Listen to the amp after you build it, then roll some tubes.

13th January 2021, 06:17 PM	#16
cogitech diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Kamloops, BC	Either one of those will be "fine" as a starter 12AT7. Some people report that the quality of driver tube can be just as important (perhaps more so) than the power tubes. It is all very subjective and depends a lot on all the other pieces of your sound system, so there is no way to know whether you will notice a difference or not. Regarding rectification - this converts AC power to DC that the amp can use. The SSE can use either solid state rectification (via diodes) or tube rectification (via 5AR4, 5U4-GB, etc.). If you plan to use solid state rectification then you don't need that tube. SS rectification is more efficient, so your B+ voltage will be significantly higher and more "stout". Despite this, most SSE builders choose tube rectification.

15th January 2021, 12:45 PM	#20
calmant diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: Brussels	Everything's ordered and I'll start building as soon as I receive the components. I was wondering whether it would be possible to include an Arduino in my SSE build, hooked to a screen monitoring watt per channel, time since I turned on the amp, temperature, etc. I looked through the forum but can't seem to find anyone who's done it before.