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Tubelab Discussion and support of Tubelab products, prototypes and experiments

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Old 9th April 2020, 09:37 PM   #41
potepuh is offline potepuh  Slovenia
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Nice pictures, beautifull work.

for the zip ties I was refering to the way you cut them. Take a look here; Cut Zip Ties The Proper & Painless Way - Car Guy Reviews
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Old 9th April 2020, 09:47 PM   #42
cogitech is offline cogitech  Canada
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Six Year SSE Project Nearing Completion
Looking very nice, man!
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Old 9th April 2020, 09:48 PM   #43
cogitech is offline cogitech  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike567 View Post
If the cl-90 opened up you would have 120 volts floating around. A big surprise if you are doing a quick "WTF"
I figured there was a good reason. That certainly is one, even if I still don't understand why.
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Old 9th April 2020, 09:56 PM   #44
Duke58 is offline Duke58  United States
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Looks real purdy!

Here's a shot of my SSE I bought last year. Connected UL with FB.
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Old 10th April 2020, 12:06 AM   #45
woodo is offline woodo  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwinstonwood View Post
.....I wired up the PT. I'm assuming the 6.3V center tap is not used. I tucked it away.....
on my edcor xpwr144 transformer for a point to point wired 300b/6sn7 set the 6.3v winding had a centre tap. enquiring about where to put this, it was advised to connect to the ground bus. i have not tried leaving it unconnected though. @tubelab_com or others may wish to confirm as to the correct terminal on the pcb to connect this if at all.

Nice build btw, like your methodical approach. being a noob and frightened to turn my amp on for the first time I piked and engaged a local guitar amp tech to check things over. all was fine though. Looking forward to the outcome of your project.
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Old 10th April 2020, 03:08 AM   #46
dwinstonwood is offline dwinstonwood  United States
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Thanks for the positive comments everyone!

Thanks for the link potepuh. I would not want to poke my hand on something sharp that might cause me to jerk my hand into a bad spot in the amp!

cogitech, I have no idea either. The more I think about electricity the less I understand it. I'm actually reading a good book that was written for people like me who have to visualize things to understand them. It's called: There Are No Electrons: Electronics for Earthlings, by Kenn Amdahl. I recommend it.

Very nice Duke58. I'd like to experiment with UL and CFB down the road. I'm guessing that works better with some tubes than with others. I think George said somewhere that EL34's might sound best in basic triode. That's what I'm using for now.

Thanks woodo. I haven't come across any recommendations to ground the 6.3 center tap. Hopefully someone with an SSE will comment. Yep, I'm nervous about powering up for the first time. I also thought about calling around town to try and find a good amp tech. But, I'm just going to make a dim-bulb tester and let it do whatever it does!

Thanks again.
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Old 10th April 2020, 11:23 AM   #47
Tubelab_com is offline Tubelab_com  United States
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Quote:
I haven't come across any recommendations to ground the 6.3 center tap.
The 6.3V CT is not used on the SSE. Do not ground it.
__________________
Tubelab, I blow stuff up so that you don't have to.
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Old 10th April 2020, 12:50 PM   #48
dwinstonwood is offline dwinstonwood  United States
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Thank you George!
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Old 10th April 2020, 07:14 PM   #49
dwinstonwood is offline dwinstonwood  United States
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I assembled a 200w dim-bulb tester. I've re-checked everything in this amp many times over. I have no excuses left at this point.

First, I apologize for my lack of knowledge and experience in this process. So, I have some basic questions.

1) Do I power up the amp for the very first time WITHOUT tubes? Or, do I install some or all of them for the first power up?

2) I made some 25W 8Ohm dummy loads. Will these be adequate?

3) If the bulb stays dim, and I don't see smoke or flames, or smell anything burning, should I hook up a music source and speakers?

Really, thanks very much for help with this.
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Old 11th April 2020, 01:38 PM   #50
dwinstonwood is offline dwinstonwood  United States
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Well, I made a diagram following Ty_Bower's guide. I flipped the image in Photoshop so it matches what I'll be looking at from beneath the board.

Ty did not say which ends of R10 and R20 to test when checking for the 12AT7 cathode voltages. I put a "?" there. Can someone tell me which end of the resistors to connect to?

In the same thread, SGregory said to check for AC out. I assume he meant to measure AC at the speaker terminals? How would I do this?

Here's my plan:
1) Power up with no tubes and watch for problems. Power down.
2) Power up with tubes and dummy load and watch for problems. Power down.
3) Check B+ voltage at R4. Power down.
4) Check Cathode voltages at R17 and R27. Power down.
5) Calculate current draw and power dissipation for the EL34's.
6) Repeat steps 4 and 5 for R10 and R20 (when I know which end of the resistors to connect to). Power down.
7) Post my measurements and calculations here and wait for comments.
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