that depends on what B+ you plan on running your 300b at. The tubeab website shoes 150ma min. I believe mine is 200ma
What is your B+ or secondary HV at 200mA and the current for 300B ?
Mine is 640VCT / 170mA for TSE, not sure if this is good enough. Thank you.
For another point of reference I am using the Edcor XPWR247 power transformer (660V 325 mA) and a 5H 60 ohm choke. With a 5AR4 rectifier tube and 300B output tubes I get the following operating conditions:
B+ 396, 75mA
B+ 385, 90mA
Hope this helps.
Chas
Thanks for the compliments on the wiring.Another symmetric layout proposal
I had a similar idea to csample's symmetric layout and just happened to check up on this thread recently. Glad I did! I learned some things about proper remote tube placement.
Here's a couple pics of the layout I was planning. One showing the board placement inside the amp, and one not. I tried to adhere to George's recommendations for tube placements. In my layout, almost all components will be mounted on the front of the pcb, then the pcb will be mounted to the underside of the top of the chassis with long (60-70mm) standoffs. I have to do it this way for 2 reasons: 1, because there has to be enough room for the tall capacitors if mounted on the front of the pcb, and 2, because I want to fit panel meters on the top, so the board has to sit low enough behind the top panel to fit the meters.
Trying to figure out how it will all fit has been a pain, but if this has any chance of working, it'll be worth it.
I had a similar idea to csample's symmetric layout and just happened to check up on this thread recently. Glad I did! I learned some things about proper remote tube placement.
Here's a couple pics of the layout I was planning. One showing the board placement inside the amp, and one not. I tried to adhere to George's recommendations for tube placements. In my layout, almost all components will be mounted on the front of the pcb, then the pcb will be mounted to the underside of the top of the chassis with long (60-70mm) standoffs. I have to do it this way for 2 reasons: 1, because there has to be enough room for the tall capacitors if mounted on the front of the pcb, and 2, because I want to fit panel meters on the top, so the board has to sit low enough behind the top panel to fit the meters.
Trying to figure out how it will all fit has been a pain, but if this has any chance of working, it'll be worth it.
Attachments
Anyway, in other news... Is anyone else having a hard time inserting their 5AR4 and 5842 tubes into their sockets? I mean a REALLY hard time. It's so tight that if I had the board mounted in the case and tried to insert those tubes, I'd break the pcb with the amount of force required to insert them. I haven't actually even inserted the 5842's all the way yet out of fear of breaking something. Maybe it's the sockets I'm using? Anyone have socket recommendations for 5AR4 and 5842 that are a bit easier to insert into?
I like these Belton sockets that are available through a few vendors:
Belton Socket 9 Pin PCB Mount (VT9-Pt)
Belton Socket 9 Pin PCB Mount (VT9-Pt)
the ceramic sockets I used were super tight at first. After a few times of installing and removing tubes, they have loosened up a bit. I support the board from underneath when installing and also rock the tubes side to side as I install them.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'd rather not have to open the chassis and support the pcb every time I want to take out a tube. I'll buy a few different brands and try them out, see if I can find a better one than I have now.
Is a choke worth is?
I am building TSEII after building a TSEI last year. The TSEI had hum that I couldn't get rid of so I got the new TSEII and started over using the same transformers and Tubes. I didn't use a choke on the TSEI and was thinking one might help with any hum. I am using Hammond 276X power trans and they make a choke that would work, but cost is about $60. Is it worth is?
I am building TSEII after building a TSEI last year. The TSEI had hum that I couldn't get rid of so I got the new TSEII and started over using the same transformers and Tubes. I didn't use a choke on the TSEI and was thinking one might help with any hum. I am using Hammond 276X power trans and they make a choke that would work, but cost is about $60. Is it worth is?
I don't have too much experience but I think a good choke is totally worth it. Hum would probably also be dependent on your speaker sensitivity.
For my speakers which are not too sensitive, around 86-88dB, I have 0 hum or noise with a TSE-II with a pricey choke. Capacitor-input – ISO TRANSFORMERS
For my speakers which are not too sensitive, around 86-88dB, I have 0 hum or noise with a TSE-II with a pricey choke. Capacitor-input – ISO TRANSFORMERS
Hi Winggo, I hope you will like your TSE-II as much as I like mine! I never ran mine without a choke, but I have a 5H Edcor choke and also have a 100uF supplemental capacitor. Through my 96dB speakers I can’t hear hum until my ear is within 10” of the driver. I am glad I spent the money the choke.
George seems to highly recommend them as well. This is a quote from the Tubelab website: “ The board is designed to be built using a capacitor input filter with a choke or a resistor in between the two capacitors. If a choke is desired it may be connected in place of R4. This is a HIGHLY recommended modification. Many early users found that a choke was needed when using high efficiency speakers. I have since added a choke to my amplifiers, and found improved bass and dynamics even though I had no hum. ”
Hope this helps.
Chas
This one from Mouser costs ~$15 plus shipping.
C-14X Triad Magnetics | Mouser
Temco Capacitor
Capacitors - Products
You can also order these online at that big website.
This one from Mouser costs ~$15 plus shipping.
C-14X Triad Magnetics | Mouser
Temco Capacitor
Capacitors - Products
You can also order these online at that big website.