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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!

Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Order the boards on his website, pay via PayPal. Ordering | Tubelab

I have built two of his amps and recommend that you start with the SSE because it is thoroughly documented on the Tubelab website. My Tubelab SSE amp has two 6L6GC output tubes, a GE 12AT7 tube and a Mullard 5AR4. Sounds really nice.

However, I've recently been extremely impressed with the TSE-II board running two number 45 output tubes.

Plan is to build another TSE-II amp with 300B output tubes so I can listen with my beer muffs on. (I get a little hard of hearing, similar to wearing ear muffs, when I've been binge drinking. That means four or more beers in a row).

George has a lot of other things going on, has always answered my questions about Tubelab boards when I've posted questions. You also need to read through the website and DIY Audio to get the nitty-gritty details. That's why it's called DIY.

Make sure to look at all the photos of the Tubelab amps to stay properly motivated and build your own amp.

Thanks for your reply. I am already aware of all of what you said, and I have already read his entire website. All I need to know is whether or not the SSE boards are still available and whether or not it is still a viable project (regarding component availability). The SSE is many years old now. I am not one to send $50 USD without knowing all the facts.

A simple "Yes" from George isn't that much to ask, is it?
 
Yes, it's frustrating, but you have to realize that this ain't his full-time job.

After I receive all the parts from a kit I bought before Christmas, I'll tell you about spending a lot more than $50 for a kit (from a full time vendor) in mid-November, and I still haven't received everything. No delay in accepting my money...

I built my SSE last summer, so I can assure you it is a viable project, and all components are readily available. A friend recently ordered 4 boards from Tubelabs and had them within a week.
 
Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Yes, it's frustrating, but you have to realize that this ain't his full-time job.

...

I built my SSE last summer, so I can assure you it is a viable project, and all components are readily available. A friend recently ordered 4 boards from Tubelabs and had them within a week.

This is reassuring. Thank you very much!

EDIT: Money sent. Very excited!
 
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A simple "Yes" from George isn't that much to ask, is it?

I know, but it's impossible when the only internet source available (Comcast) is down, and my cell phone has no coverage at the house when it's raining, and limited coverage when it's not. I live out of town in hill country so there is no cell service, or TV and very limited radio signals.

Our cable TV, phone and internet company loves to charge $250 per month but they system is old, hasn't been upgraded in at least a decade or two, and they refuse to clear the trees and junk from their lines, so stuff breaks nearly every time we have a storm. It's often days to get it fixed, and then it's not done right.

I got the order and it will be mailed today.
 
Cogitech- Here are a couple photos of Jack E's SPP I helped him build. The chassis is made from laser cut acrylic. Top and bottom are 1/2" thick and the sides are 1/4" thick. The posts/columns were turned on a lathe and the holes drilled and tapped on a milling machine from 3/4" diameter aluminum.
 

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Hum with different 2A3 brands

Dear TSE-enthusiasts,

This weekend I finished my TSE-II (still on bread board) and tried different 2A3 tubes, that I have, with this sweet sounding but powerful amplifier:

- Chinese 2A3

- Sovtek monoplate 2A3

- JJ 2A3-40

I'm using a 10 H choke and the filter capacitors as per schematic, rectifier tube is a NOS 5U4G (RCA).

The amp is connected to open baffle speakers which a very sensitivity of 98 dB. Only with the Sovtek 2A3 there is no audible hum from the sitting position (...and even with my ear close to the speaker).

What are your findings regarding hum?

Best regards
Peter
 
What are your findings regarding hum?

The first TSE I built was with 45's for headphone use with 5K:32 opt's.
With Sennheiser HD650 there was audible (annoying) hum due to power supply ripple when nothing playing.

This was a combination of high sensitivity (103db/1V), close proximity to the driver (headphones :/), less winding ratio (1:12.5 vs 1:25), and a smallish C4 (was 4.7uF for target ~300V B+).
In this case, I replaced the choke (Hammond 159P 10H) with a HV voltage regulator (and increasing C4 to 47uF) and this solved the issue.

I'm close to finishing my second TSE with 300B's. In a temp. enclosure with ISO LC-10-200D 10H choke, 47uF filter cap, connected to 97.5 db/1W Klipsch speakers there is no hum and it is entirely silent.
 
Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
I know, but it's impossible when the only internet source available (Comcast) is down, and my cell phone has no coverage at the house when it's raining, and limited coverage when it's not. I live out of town in hill country so there is no cell service, or TV and very limited radio signals.

Our cable TV, phone and internet company loves to charge $250 per month but they system is old, hasn't been upgraded in at least a decade or two, and they refuse to clear the trees and junk from their lines, so stuff breaks nearly every time we have a storm. It's often days to get it fixed, and then it's not done right.

I got the order and it will be mailed today.

Sorry I was impatient, George. I appreciate your response and quick action getting the board sent out.

Cogitech- Here are a couple photos of Jack E's SPP I helped him build. The chassis is made from laser cut acrylic. Top and bottom are 1/2" thick and the sides are 1/4" thick. The posts/columns were turned on a lathe and the holes drilled and tapped on a milling machine from 3/4" diameter aluminum.

Very unique! I am a long way off from making any decisions about chassis design/build, so it will be great to see as many as possible so I can choose something that I a) can do a decent job building, and b) will be attractive enough. I've built some pretty ugly amps and DACs over the years (cookie tin chassis, plywood, etc.) - time to change that.
 
Meassure bias 300b on the TSEII

Hi again.

Have one more quistion, also regarding the checkout procedure.

This snippet is from the tubelab.com site :)

Connect a load to the amp, speakers or resistor. It is wise not to use your good speakers during initial testing. Finally, clip voltmeter leads across the 10 ohm resistors in the plate supply of each output tube (R18 and R29), put in the output tubes, and power the amp on. The tubes should draw no (or very little) current. After the amp has been on for a few minutes, slowly adjust the bias pots to raise the output tube current to the desired value. There will be some interaction, since the supply voltage drops under load. Let the amp run for a few minutes and watch the output tube current. Some tubes will creep upwards for a while, especially new ones. Power OFF the board. Do NOT touch the board for 5 minutes after the power is disconnected.

I cannot figure out why the reading on the voltmeter say 0.65 is the same as 65mA. - I suppose that there is not 650v / 10ohm on the R18/R29 resistors :confused:

Rgds; Jesper.
 
For those building their boards with the components on the bottom, sealed in a chassis, have you been upgrading the heat sink for IC3? In the instructions for the original Tubelab SE I know the Sharp part needs extra attention, is that the case with the new one as well?

And if so, is it only IC3 I need to worry about, heat wise? If needed, I was going to take a heat sink from an old PC board and attach to the IC3 heat sink.
if you can use bigger heatsink and have room, go for it. i have TSE-1 and all have big heatsink, very happy with it.