IC1 & IC2 are mouse part #s 747-IXCP10M45S, and the notes say:
They are NOT available in an insulated case
and the FULL B+ VOLTAGE is on the metal tab. Insulators and thermal paste MUST be used.
I'm looking for what would be an appropriate insulator for these parts -- thanks!
You can search for a to220 insulator
This would work
4880MG Aavid | Mouser
It includes the two things you really need, a thermal insulator and a shoulder washer (so screw can't touch the metal part of tab).
This type of insulator is thermally conductive, so you don't need paste. If you use a mylar insulator, then you need paste too.
Goes with 90dB spk. ?
Hi all here
First time on tubeforum, longtime user diyaudio.
I recently finished my new DAC, so now i have nice stereo here. BUT...!
I never had the guts to tryout building a nice tubeamp, but now i think it's about
time... So i have a few quistions; hoping you guy's can answer?
My speakers are 90dB sensitive, my source giving ~2,5v into 2xgain preamp (Salas's DCG3 but with 2xgain) and then entering my Alephj ~12-15watt AMP.
I have a lot of volumecontrol for this as is, and properly i could lover the preamp gain to "nothing" and still have enough.
I cannot seem to find how much this amp. is delivering into 8ohm's speakers,
my guess is that I'm good? Any comment on this?
Also i would like to make my own pcb for it, so if this is okay i would like some pictures of it giving me some idea how it must be layout ( i have good experience doing my own pcb's, both on factory with gerbers, but also handmade old fashion style )...
And excuse my schoolish English, i am not native in this language sry.
Best Regards from Jesper/Denmark
Hi all here
First time on tubeforum, longtime user diyaudio.
I recently finished my new DAC, so now i have nice stereo here. BUT...!
I never had the guts to tryout building a nice tubeamp, but now i think it's about
time... So i have a few quistions; hoping you guy's can answer?
My speakers are 90dB sensitive, my source giving ~2,5v into 2xgain preamp (Salas's DCG3 but with 2xgain) and then entering my Alephj ~12-15watt AMP.
I have a lot of volumecontrol for this as is, and properly i could lover the preamp gain to "nothing" and still have enough.
I cannot seem to find how much this amp. is delivering into 8ohm's speakers,
my guess is that I'm good? Any comment on this?
Also i would like to make my own pcb for it, so if this is okay i would like some pictures of it giving me some idea how it must be layout ( i have good experience doing my own pcb's, both on factory with gerbers, but also handmade old fashion style )...
And excuse my schoolish English, i am not native in this language sry.
Best Regards from Jesper/Denmark
I built the SEII with 300b and using an oscilloscope to measure, I was getting the standard 8w into 8ohms.Hi all here
First time on tubeforum, longtime user diyaudio.
I recently finished my new DAC, so now i have nice stereo here. BUT...!
I never had the guts to tryout building a nice tubeamp, but now i think it's about
time... So i have a few quistions; hoping you guy's can answer?
My speakers are 90dB sensitive, my source giving ~2,5v into 2xgain preamp (Salas's DCG3 but with 2xgain) and then entering my Alephj ~12-15watt AMP.
I have a lot of volumecontrol for this as is, and properly i could lover the preamp gain to "nothing" and still have enough.
I cannot seem to find how much this amp. is delivering into 8ohm's speakers,
my guess is that I'm good? Any comment on this?
Also i would like to make my own pcb for it, so if this is okay i would like some pictures of it giving me some idea how it must be layout ( i have good experience doing my own pcb's, both on factory with gerbers, but also handmade old fashion style )...
And excuse my schoolish English, i am not native in this language sry.
Best Regards from Jesper/Denmark
I don't know precise figures, but the gain is high. I don't need a pre amp but connect my DAC Directly to the amp, and control the volume levels from the amp.
Thanks elobilo, I will measure gain when I finish my amp and post it as a reference point for other builds. But it sounds safe to include an attenuator in my amp build so I can run the amp direct from the source. What is a suitable resistance for the attenuator 50K? 100K?. I would really like to get the right value for this because I am planning to make a stepped ladder attenuator and I will probably have a fair amount of time invested in putting it together. An input would be much appreciated.
In this post, George recommends 50K and lower:
Tubelab SSE potentiometer value determination
I went with a 20K DACT attenuator... got it from pcX when they had their typical 25% off sales
Following with interest here, also regarding the quistions i asked a few threads ago
So while gathering information i found that stuff about the different tubes is kindoff hard to get, as most stuff on web is SS related (well where i was looking anyway).
So what i think i know now is that for a build to suit my needs, i have to use 300b for output tubes, giving me approx. 7-8 watts of power. - So this is fine i think, but what about rectifier (octal) and "input" (9pin mini) tubes, is there some recommandations for them? - I think i am now, regarding my knowledge into tubes, that i could need some kind of recommandation to study further with, if i am understandable?
I attached picture of newly purchased sockets!
Anyway, have a nice day out there, and thanks in advance.
Rgds; Jesper.
So while gathering information i found that stuff about the different tubes is kindoff hard to get, as most stuff on web is SS related (well where i was looking anyway).
So what i think i know now is that for a build to suit my needs, i have to use 300b for output tubes, giving me approx. 7-8 watts of power. - So this is fine i think, but what about rectifier (octal) and "input" (9pin mini) tubes, is there some recommandations for them? - I think i am now, regarding my knowledge into tubes, that i could need some kind of recommandation to study further with, if i am understandable?
I attached picture of newly purchased sockets!
Anyway, have a nice day out there, and thanks in advance.
Rgds; Jesper.
Attachments
Hi! Good luck with the TSE build.
For the rectifier, you need a 5AR4/GZ34. Those are available as new production such as the Sovtek 5AR4 which are inexpensive. Some people swear by the NOS types, such as the Amperex or Mullard but those are much pricier.
For input tubes, you can go with the Raytheon or Amperex 5842, or Western Electric 417A.
Regarding your sockets, I'm not sure those 4-pin will fit the standard PCB, but you did mention in the previous post that you would make your own so you'll probably make them fit accordingly.
For the rectifier, you need a 5AR4/GZ34. Those are available as new production such as the Sovtek 5AR4 which are inexpensive. Some people swear by the NOS types, such as the Amperex or Mullard but those are much pricier.
For input tubes, you can go with the Raytheon or Amperex 5842, or Western Electric 417A.
Regarding your sockets, I'm not sure those 4-pin will fit the standard PCB, but you did mention in the previous post that you would make your own so you'll probably make them fit accordingly.
Hi...
Thank you very much, much appreciated
This information is just what i needed now.
Yes i do my own layout; not because i don't want to buy TL's nice one (well not until if i fail), but because i really like doing pcb's from scratch.
The layout i do, will fit my 4pin sockets nicely.
Jesper.
Thank you very much, much appreciated
This information is just what i needed now.
Yes i do my own layout; not because i don't want to buy TL's nice one (well not until if i fail), but because i really like doing pcb's from scratch.
The layout i do, will fit my 4pin sockets nicely.
Jesper.
Thanks itsikhefez! That was a really helpful post in determining what resistance attenuator to use. I just ordered parts for a 25k Seiden switched shunt attenuator from pcX at 25% off as well.
Last edited:
Layout & parts
Morning here
I think i am done with the layout part, and just ordred some raw dual pcb for it.
Parts & heatsinks will be on "back" of pcb, tubes at "TOP" side pcb.
I added big heatsinks for the hot parts also.
I am as i wrote before going with the 300b tubes setup, so i did make space for bigger or offboard R36, same applied to R5. - I will use choke instead of R4. D6 will be the 200v version. Are there more things i forgot? / considerations? (just asking, maybe i forgot obviously things?)
My build will take some time, as both cost and time are factors for me ofcause. I will as soon i finish my pcb order the Mouser parts through.
I was looking for the output transformers, and saw here that Edcor EDCOR - GXSE15-8K
was a good start, BUT price in Europe are much higher than in the US, and if i order them directly from Edcor US, the shipping is to high. (61USD + 20USD import + 25%) = expensive. So maybe eventhrough they are not cheap the toroidy TTG-KT88SE - Tube output UL transformer [3kOhm] KT88 / 300B SE - Shop Toroidy.pl
will be better for me, considerring that i don't pay fein, tax and high shipping from them the price for two shipped to DK will be approx. 190EUR (210usd).
What i don't know what to use is the power transformer for the setup, and i was hoping some could tell me what i must use (maybe toroidy can supply here also?).
Anyway have a good day/evening, whatever time right now out there!
Rgds; Jesper.
Morning here
I think i am done with the layout part, and just ordred some raw dual pcb for it.
Parts & heatsinks will be on "back" of pcb, tubes at "TOP" side pcb.
I added big heatsinks for the hot parts also.
I am as i wrote before going with the 300b tubes setup, so i did make space for bigger or offboard R36, same applied to R5. - I will use choke instead of R4. D6 will be the 200v version. Are there more things i forgot? / considerations? (just asking, maybe i forgot obviously things?)
My build will take some time, as both cost and time are factors for me ofcause. I will as soon i finish my pcb order the Mouser parts through.
I was looking for the output transformers, and saw here that Edcor EDCOR - GXSE15-8K
was a good start, BUT price in Europe are much higher than in the US, and if i order them directly from Edcor US, the shipping is to high. (61USD + 20USD import + 25%) = expensive. So maybe eventhrough they are not cheap the toroidy TTG-KT88SE - Tube output UL transformer [3kOhm] KT88 / 300B SE - Shop Toroidy.pl
will be better for me, considerring that i don't pay fein, tax and high shipping from them the price for two shipped to DK will be approx. 190EUR (210usd).
What i don't know what to use is the power transformer for the setup, and i was hoping some could tell me what i must use (maybe toroidy can supply here also?).
Anyway have a good day/evening, whatever time right now out there!
Rgds; Jesper.
Attachments
Hi lykkedk
I like the large heatsinks on your board. I am new to tube amps so I can't provide other feed back though. I am a bit curious what impedance you want for your output transformers. The Edcor was an 8K and the Toroidy 3K. How many ohms are your speakers and which tap on the Toroidy do you plan to run them on?
I like the large heatsinks on your board. I am new to tube amps so I can't provide other feed back though. I am a bit curious what impedance you want for your output transformers. The Edcor was an 8K and the Toroidy 3K. How many ohms are your speakers and which tap on the Toroidy do you plan to run them on?
Morning here
I am as i wrote before going with the 300b tubes setup, so i did make space for bigger or offboard R36, same applied to R5. - I will use choke instead of R4. D6 will be the 200v version. Are there more things i forgot? / considerations? (just asking, maybe i forgot obviously things?)
...
I was looking for the output transformers, and saw here that Edcor EDCOR - GXSE15-8K
was a good start, BUT price in Europe are much higher than in the US, and if i order them directly from Edcor US, the shipping is to high. (61USD + 20USD import + 25%) = expensive. So maybe eventhrough they are not cheap the toroidy TTG-KT88SE - Tube output UL transformer [3kOhm] KT88 / 300B SE - Shop Toroidy.pl
will be better for me, considerring that i don't pay fein, tax and high shipping from them the price for two shipped to DK will be approx. 190EUR (210usd).
What i don't know what to use is the power transformer for the setup, and i was hoping some could tell me what i must use (maybe toroidy can supply here also?).
Rgds; Jesper.
I used torroidy to make my power transformer for my 300b SEII, it was bespoke and works well. One thing I recommend is getting a power transformer that runs at 75%, that means overspecking the current by 25 to 33%;- min 200ma for ht. It will make the transformer run a little more cooler.
I would be very interested to hear your experience with torroidys se output transformers. I nearly choose these but went with another from Russia /East European.
Hi
I'am totally newbie also.
I havent yet concluded if it's 8k or 5k or 3k, i just pasted some Edcor/Toroidy prices as examples. Donno what to use yet; have to make pcb's first and solder in all the parts.
My speakers are 8 --> 4 ohm's ones at 90dB/1w, so it would be great having OPT which is changeable between 8ohm&4ohm
Rgds; Jesper.
The 300B can be used with both 3.5K and 5K... there are alot of threads here about the differences between the operating points.
In short with the 3.5K you get slightly more power but more distortion.
I am also building a TSE-II for 300B's and went with ISO FC-20S output transformers. They are "universal" opt's and can be wired for both 3.5K and 5K so I may experiment which I prefer. They are pricier than others, but ship directly from Japan so if I were in Europe, I would consider them over a US based option like Edcor or One Electron
Most of these OPT's have secondaries for both 4R and 8R.. some even have 16R taps.
In short with the 3.5K you get slightly more power but more distortion.
I am also building a TSE-II for 300B's and went with ISO FC-20S output transformers. They are "universal" opt's and can be wired for both 3.5K and 5K so I may experiment which I prefer. They are pricier than others, but ship directly from Japan so if I were in Europe, I would consider them over a US based option like Edcor or One Electron
My speakers are 8 --> 4 ohm's ones at 90dB/1w, so it would be great having OPT which is changeable between 8ohm&4ohm
Most of these OPT's have secondaries for both 4R and 8R.. some even have 16R taps.