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Tubelab Discussion and support of Tubelab products, prototypes and experiments

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Old 13th January 2020, 03:55 PM   #631
pieroh is offline pieroh  Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lykkedk View Post
Hi here

While getting closer, i stumbled about where to meassure the B- voltage at the TSEII, While there is none R7 on this board, where can i meassure it then ? (At anode D2/D3 to GND perhaps???)

Rgds; Jesper.

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta..._schematic-pdf
...connection between R6 and C7 to ground
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Old 13th January 2020, 04:34 PM   #632
itsikhefez is offline itsikhefez  United States
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieroh View Post
What are your findings regarding hum?
The first TSE I built was with 45's for headphone use with 5K:32 opt's.
With Sennheiser HD650 there was audible (annoying) hum due to power supply ripple when nothing playing.

This was a combination of high sensitivity (103db/1V), close proximity to the driver (headphones :/), less winding ratio (1:12.5 vs 1:25), and a smallish C4 (was 4.7uF for target ~300V B+).
In this case, I replaced the choke (Hammond 159P 10H) with a HV voltage regulator (and increasing C4 to 47uF) and this solved the issue.

I'm close to finishing my second TSE with 300B's. In a temp. enclosure with ISO LC-10-200D 10H choke, 47uF filter cap, connected to 97.5 db/1W Klipsch speakers there is no hum and it is entirely silent.
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Old 13th January 2020, 04:41 PM   #633
lykkedk is offline lykkedk  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieroh View Post
...connection between R6 and C7 to ground
Ahh yes ... silly me ofcause
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Old 13th January 2020, 05:19 PM   #634
cogitech is offline cogitech  Canada
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubelab_com View Post
I know, but it's impossible when the only internet source available (Comcast) is down, and my cell phone has no coverage at the house when it's raining, and limited coverage when it's not. I live out of town in hill country so there is no cell service, or TV and very limited radio signals.

Our cable TV, phone and internet company loves to charge $250 per month but they system is old, hasn't been upgraded in at least a decade or two, and they refuse to clear the trees and junk from their lines, so stuff breaks nearly every time we have a storm. It's often days to get it fixed, and then it's not done right.

I got the order and it will be mailed today.
Sorry I was impatient, George. I appreciate your response and quick action getting the board sent out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke58 View Post
Cogitech- Here are a couple photos of Jack E's SPP I helped him build. The chassis is made from laser cut acrylic. Top and bottom are 1/2" thick and the sides are 1/4" thick. The posts/columns were turned on a lathe and the holes drilled and tapped on a milling machine from 3/4" diameter aluminum.
Very unique! I am a long way off from making any decisions about chassis design/build, so it will be great to see as many as possible so I can choose something that I a) can do a decent job building, and b) will be attractive enough. I've built some pretty ugly amps and DACs over the years (cookie tin chassis, plywood, etc.) - time to change that.
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Old 14th January 2020, 08:46 AM   #635
lykkedk is offline lykkedk  Denmark
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Default Meassure bias 300b on the TSEII

Hi again.

Have one more quistion, also regarding the checkout procedure.

This snippet is from the tubelab.com site

Quote:
Connect a load to the amp, speakers or resistor. It is wise not to use your good speakers during initial testing. Finally, clip voltmeter leads across the 10 ohm resistors in the plate supply of each output tube (R18 and R29), put in the output tubes, and power the amp on. The tubes should draw no (or very little) current. After the amp has been on for a few minutes, slowly adjust the bias pots to raise the output tube current to the desired value. There will be some interaction, since the supply voltage drops under load. Let the amp run for a few minutes and watch the output tube current. Some tubes will creep upwards for a while, especially new ones. Power OFF the board. Do NOT touch the board for 5 minutes after the power is disconnected.
I cannot figure out why the reading on the voltmeter say 0.65 is the same as 65mA. - I suppose that there is not 650v / 10ohm on the R18/R29 resistors

Rgds; Jesper.
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Old 14th January 2020, 10:59 AM   #636
PDL is offline PDL  United States
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Ohm's law.
E=IR
I=E/R
I=.65v/10r
=.065A
=65mA
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Old 14th January 2020, 12:23 PM   #637
lykkedk is offline lykkedk  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDL View Post
Ohm's law.
E=IR
I=E/R
I=.65v/10r
=.065A
=65mA
Thanks, got it
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Old 20th January 2020, 03:51 AM   #638
hobbyamp is offline hobbyamp  United States
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Originally Posted by jerkbag View Post
For those building their boards with the components on the bottom, sealed in a chassis, have you been upgrading the heat sink for IC3? In the instructions for the original Tubelab SE I know the Sharp part needs extra attention, is that the case with the new one as well?

And if so, is it only IC3 I need to worry about, heat wise? If needed, I was going to take a heat sink from an old PC board and attach to the IC3 heat sink.
if you can use bigger heatsink and have room, go for it. i have TSE-1 and all have big heatsink, very happy with it.
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Old 20th January 2020, 03:44 PM   #639
Mr_Zenith is offline Mr_Zenith  United States
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
Good advice from hobbyamp.

I installed the stock heatsink. It gets quite hot when running 2A3s, and while I'm sure it's up to the task short term I'll probably install something beefier at some point in the near future. The extra thermal mass can't hurt.
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Old 20th January 2020, 04:41 PM   #640
lykkedk is offline lykkedk  Denmark
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While waiting i did mod my IC3 heatsink a bit.
Maybe could be used for inspiration for some?

Donno if it would be enough for my 300B build, let's see when i get there

Rgds; Jesper.
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