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Old 24th June 2019, 09:37 PM   #371
itsikhefez is offline itsikhefez  United States
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
Oops. Question #1 is answered on Pt. 10 of the BOM notes.
Q2 and 3 remain
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Old 24th June 2019, 09:44 PM   #372
Grumpish is offline Grumpish  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubelab_com View Post
Did your board blow the resistor specified in the parts list? It is specified for high current pulses, but I have only tested ONE of them, my earlier boards used some old 2 watt resistors that are no longer made.
I had the specified part - I was probably just unlucky and had an out of spec one. I have a 3W resistor in there now, and with no other changes the board is now sat there warming up nicely with a rock steady 380V and 65mA on a pair of cheap Chinese 300B's
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Old 25th June 2019, 12:04 AM   #373
colnago55 is offline colnago55  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsikhefez View Post
My board is completed and almost ready for final connections
Have a few follow ups:
1) What are PAD1/3/4 used for? I haven't seen anything in this thread or elsewhere, but they are connected in George's example on post #245
2) Where should the motor run cap be physically connected to ?
3) Why are there 3 connections for the L/R inputs? Which should be used?
There is lots of information relating to the earlier version of the board here: Assembly Manual | Tubelab

I believe the part numbers are the same as on the original version of the TSE board.

Lots to read. Enjoy
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Old 25th June 2019, 01:17 PM   #374
Tubelab_com is offline Tubelab_com  United States
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2) Where should the motor run cap be physically connected to ?

One lead goes to a terminal in the T1-RED_YEL connector, and the other lead goes to the terminal in the CHOKE connector closest to the T1-RED_YEL connector. If using a choke and a cap, you may need to put two wires in one hole in the connector, or connect the wires together off board.

A true motor run cap should have no polarity. If you are using a polarized cap the negative lead goes in the T1-RED_YEL connector.

3) Why are there 3 connections for the L/R inputs? Which should be used?

The main reason was to make it easier for me to test the board. I made some little boards that have pins that fit these connections, a volume pot, and some input connectors.

The 4 connections closest to each other are all ground. Any of these can be used for the shield (ground) side of the input cable. The left most L-INPUT terminal is the hot terminal and should be used for the center conductor of the input cable. Likewise the right most pin on the R-INPUT connector is hot.

Wires that carry current especially the ground lead of the aux cap should NOT be connected to the 4 ground pins as this might cause hum.
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Old 25th June 2019, 10:20 PM   #375
itsikhefez is offline itsikhefez  United States
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
Thanks so much George, so detailed and helpful.

I've been gathering the wiring information for the TSE from this and other threads. I have it all in a table if that is useful for anyone until the official guide is out.

George, for confirmation, it seems like there are quite a few wires that should be connected to T1-RED_YEL.
Is it a valid solution to have a single screw on the chassis, that the following are connected to:
1) T1-RED_YEL
2) AC Inlet (E)
3) Speaker/HP cold
4) PT grey EMI shield (I don't have this on my 370EX but it exists on other 300 series PT's)
5) Motor run cap (instead of directly to the T1-RED_YEL terminal)

Finally, the PT and OPT's sit directly on the chassis/top panel, but don't necessarily have continuity due to paint. Due people typical sand off the paint from the bottom of the bells?
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Old 25th June 2019, 10:42 PM   #376
evanc is offline evanc  United States
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
I would say yes and yes. A single star ground point on the chassis is a good idea as well as scraping some paint from the spot where you bolt down the PY and OT. Maybe use a star washer for good measure
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Old 25th June 2019, 10:55 PM   #377
randytsuch is offline randytsuch
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Don't know about others, but I used a wire brush attachment for my drill. I used it to remove paint so I could run a ground wire to the tx housings. If the housing is visible, then I removed the paint from the bottom of the feet, so you can't see the bare metal spots when tx is installed.
Otherwise paint is an insulator, and I can't see how you would get a good ground.
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Old 28th June 2019, 11:47 AM   #378
elobilo is offline elobilo  Norway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsikhefez View Post
Thanks so much George, so detailed and helpful.

George, for confirmation, it seems like there are quite a few wires that should be connected to T1-RED_YEL.
Is it a valid solution to have a single screw on the chassis, that the following are connected to:
1) T1-RED_YEL
2) AC Inlet (E)
3) Speaker/HP cold
4) PT grey EMI shield (I don't have this on my 370EX but it exists on other 300 series PT's)
5) Motor run cap (instead of directly to the T1-RED_YEL terminal)
I only have the motor run cap (it was parallel connected to c5 directly before), T1-RED_YEL and AC Inlet (E) connected to the board.

The shield for the input wires connects directly to the AC Inlet earth, via a chassis star earth, and so do the OPT speaker output negatives. This saves some space.

Please share the table you made, and thanks.

Last edited by elobilo; 28th June 2019 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 29th June 2019, 01:01 AM   #379
Mr_Zenith is offline Mr_Zenith  United States
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
As a minor housekeeping issue, is there any way to add the board graphics in Post 162 to the list of documents in Post 1? I ask because I needed a copy earlier today, but had forgotten which post it was in. Having all the docs in one place might prevent some frustration for future builders.

My amp has been dismantled for the past several days while I complete the chassis. So far it's been a challenge (the top plate alone has 197 holes, most of those for cooling), but it's coming together nicely.
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Old 29th June 2019, 01:05 AM   #380
tomchr is offline tomchr  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Zenith View Post
My amp has been dismantled for the past several days while I complete the chassis. So far it's been a challenge (the top plate alone has 197 holes, most of those for cooling), but it's coming together nicely.
When I put together my DG300B, I found a good way to drill a pattern of many holes: Perf plate! I used a piece of perforated aluminum sheet as a drill guide. I marked two holes in the pattern, drilled those, and held the perf plate in place with a pair of brass pins. Drill rod would work too. Naturally, this requires the holes in the perf plate to be the same (or smaller, I suppose) diameter as the desired ventilation holes in the chassis.

Tom
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