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Tubelab Discussion and support of Tubelab products, prototypes and experiments

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Old 16th June 2019, 02:13 AM   #351
Mr_Zenith is offline Mr_Zenith  United States
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
Heck, yeah. Thanks!

The voltages have stabilized a bit, so I moved it into the main listening area. All I can say is that I'm floored...
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Old Yesterday, 07:18 AM   #352
itsikhefez is offline itsikhefez  United States
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
Congrats Mr_Zenith, nice test layout there.

George, is there a wiring guide for the TSE similar to the one for the SSE?
I'm mostly interested in the proper way of grounding
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Old Yesterday, 02:19 PM   #353
elobilo is offline elobilo  Norway
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Originally Posted by itsikhefez View Post
I'm mostly interested in the proper way of grounding
I was wondering this as well and also wasn't totally sure. At first I just had the HV center tap connected to one of the T1-red/yellow ground pads, but this was a bit unstable with this and not as "clear" sound as I would have expected.

I measured the voltage between the ground pad and the mains earth WITHOUT the mains earth connected and there was several 10s of voltage difference, which I didn't think was correct.

I then attached a ground wire from the mains in earth terminal to the other T1-red/yellow ground pad and this made all the difference and much better and clearer sound. I'm guessing that the mains ground should also be connected to the circuit board as well. I also have it connected to the -ve speaker out terminals and all metal chassis bits I have in a star pattern.
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Old Yesterday, 10:43 PM   #354
Tubelab_com is offline Tubelab_com  United States
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Quote:
is there a wiring guide for the TSE similar to the one for the SSE?
Not yet, I still need to make it.

Quote:
I then attached a ground wire from the mains in earth terminal to the other T1-red/yellow ground pad
The T1-red/yellow ground pad IS the star ground point for the PC board. It is connected to the negative ends of C4 and C5 by a fat trace. All other subsection grounds are returned to the same point, the negative end of C5. Use the spare hole in that connector for the a wire to the ground pin on the power inlet, and the cold side of the speaker terminals.

If the ground side of the input connectors make contact with the chassis, then the chassis will be grounded through the input connector. If the connectors are isolated, then ground the chassis to the T1-red/yellow ground pad. Do not do both, as this will create a ground loop.

Before calling it done, use an ohmmeter to verify that the chassis, input connectors, and the ground on the power cord are all connected to each other. Check the metal housings on the transformers too. I have seen them short, usually where the wires enter the end bells. A blown fuse is preferred over a transformer with 400 volts on its conductive case.
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Old Yesterday, 10:48 PM   #355
Tubelab_com is offline Tubelab_com  United States
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I know that this wasn't supposed to happen, but I am currently out of TSE-II boards. I ordered a new batch about 3 weeks ago as the first batch was dwindling.

When the box appeared on my front porch I was surprised to find over a year's supply of SSE boards instead of TSE-II's. It is still not clear how this happened, or who's fault it was, but the board house is making me some TSE-II's. I asked for a rush on at least some of them. Best guess is ship out to me on Friday.
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Old Today, 01:27 AM   #356
Mr_Zenith is offline Mr_Zenith  United States
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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
Quote:
...nice test layout there.
Thanks, itsikhefez. I call it the "Borg" method - a relatively quick and dirty way to determine whether or not a particular layout will work, both physically and electrically. It also enhances safety because the heavy stuff is fastened down and most of the flying leads are tucked away.

In this case I found that a 12" x 12" x 3" (305 mm x 305 mm x 76 mm) enclosure would work for the basic amplifier. However, I want to add some goodies like a volume control, etc. - and that means I'll need to add another 1" (25.4 mm) to the cabinet thickness for added cooling, shielding and working space. As a bonus, it even works out better aesthetically.

All of this for ~10 USD worth of baltic birch ply. What's not to like?

Quote:
I know that this wasn't supposed to happen, but I am currently out of TSE-II boards.
I'm glad I listened to my gut and ordered when I did. For anyone contemplating purchasing a board, just do it. Seriously.

Mine's been a functioning amplifier for 48 hours, and I don't think I've been any happier with the outcome of a build. This is just a really nice little amp. Right now I have it connected to a pair of 100 dB Klipsch KLF-20s, and this combination seems to work well in the main listening area (an acoustically-active 26' x 17' room with a 16' vaulted ceiling).

I really have a hard time believing all of this sound is coming out of just a pair of 2A3s.

Nicely done, Sir!
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