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SE Parts questions

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Hello everyone,

My name is Dave, and I'd love to build an SE amp. I've ordered most of the parts from DigiKey. I'm now trying to order the remaining parts from AES. Please bear with these questions - I'm grateful for any help I can get. Here goes:

1. What exact AES part number (or model #) should I order for C9 and C11 (.22uF 400V (or higher) tubular capacitor). I can't seem to find the C-AUD47-400 part # that's listed on George's website. Is metal film capacitor C-TD22-400 the right one?

2. What is the AES part number for the 4 pin (2A3 size) socket? George's website says "P-ST4-205M", but I can't seem to find it.

3. I've read through George's description for the output transformers, but I'm not quite sure what Edcor models to order. If I want to use 300B tubes, What input impedance Edcor GXSE transformers do I use? 5K? 8k?

4. I feel foolish for asking this, but what power transformer (Edcor) is suitable?

Thank you very much - any help is greatly appreciated!

Dave
 
Is metal film capacitor C-TD22-400 the right one

There are many valid choices for coupling caps from budget to super expensive.

The C-TD22-400 will work, but it is a generic part.

The Solen caps are reasonably priced and work well. I would use this one.

C-FSD22-630

If you believe that more expensive caps make better sound, this is a good choice.

C-MCCD22-400

I tend toward the mid priced parts.

the 4 pin (2A3 size) socket?

P-ST4-194

impedance Edcor GXSE transformers do I use? 5K? 8k?

Use either the 3.5 K or the 5 K OPT. The 3.5 K will provide a bit more power with a bit more distortion and some loss of damping factor. Use the 5 K transformer if you ever want to try 45 tubes.

what power transformer (Edcor) is suitable?

The XPWR131 was specifically designed by another forum member for the TSE. It has taps for the 45 tube and the 300B tube.

Your board was sent this morning. Tracking number was emailed.
 
Hello folks,

I've made some more progress on this amp. I've attached a few pictures. Most of my tubes are on order (the 5842's, and some EH 300B's).

I have a few questions. Here goes:

Rectifier tube: On the Tubelab website, George lists the 5AR4 as being the one to use. My dad gave me 5R4 as well as a 5U4 from his stock. Are these suitable or should I go ahead and order the 5AR4? Please understand I don't have a good electronics background - so keep your explanations simple.

Speaker output transformers: I ordered Edcor GXSE 15K-3.5 for 8 ohm speakers. The transformers came with a wire schematic, and I understand which two wires go to the speakers. However, I'm confused as to how I wire these transformers to the board. The Edcor schematic shows three wires: Plate (blue), Screen (white/blue), and B+ (red). However, the Tubelab schematic only shows two wires that connect to the transformers (T2-1 and T2-2 for one channel, and T3-1 and T3-2 for the other channel). Which transformer wires (Plate, Screen, and B+) get connected to the Tubelab board? And where do they connect?

I apologize in advance for the noob questions and also if they've been answered a 100 times before.

Thank you!

Dave
 

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The 5R4 tube requires a very small C1 capacitor value, 4 uF maximum. It is probably not a good choice for the TSE.

The 5U4 can deal with a C1 value up to 40 uF but requires 3 amps of filament current. You didn't say which power transformer you are using, but if the 5 volt winding is capable of 3 amps, the 5U4 will work. The XPWR 131 previously mentioned is good for 3 amps and can use the 5U4. Some people prefer the sound of the 5U4 and use it in the TSE or SSE.

The 5AR4 will provide a little more voltage which will make more power, so it may be a better choice if you need the power. Due to the B+ voltage differences the bias on the output tubes will need to be adjusted when swapping between the 5U4 and 5AR4.

The Edcor OPT's have a screen tap for use in amps like the SSE (the blue/white wire). It is not connected to anything in the TSE. Tape it up or otherwise insulate it so that it can not touch anything. It still has several hundred volts on it even though it's not being used.
 
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