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Tubelab Discussion and support of Tubelab products, prototypes and experiments

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Old 28th April 2018, 06:38 PM   #11
riven67 is offline riven67  United States
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by w5jag View Post
Not to nit pick, but they are "helipot".
Yes i realized i was spelling it wrong while searching the auction site for them! Haha

Quote:
I've attached a better pic of what the turns counter look like, and a pic of the ceramic Clarostat that I use. This is a 25 watt, 1K, single turn part.

SSON has multiturn helipot style parts, but I only saw five and ten watt parts in 1 and 2K values. That may be adequate for a ceramic wirewound device, but I'm not sure how robust those multi turn parts are. DC current through a regular carbon type pot will eventually make it noisy, and I'm not sure how good those multi turn pots are at dissipating heat. So to my mind, bigger equals better at holding off these potential problems.

Personally, I would use a single turn wirewound ceramic with a big knob if you want easier resolution. It's not like high precision is needed .....
Yes i agree, i may even have some like the ones you posted photos of. Thanks

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The better way to wire one is to short the wiper to one end of the pot, so that it is simply shorting out a part of the resistance. This way if the wiper opens, the full value of the pot is in circuit, rather than creating an open circuit.
Ok, you mean like the attached hand drawn schematic example?
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Anyone who reads my posts and threads know that I make a lot of mistakes. Whatever I know is from practical experience, some of it learned the hard way, from simply stupid, to spectacular. If George sees this, he is the expert on these matters. Others may also have thoughts on the matter.

Win W5JAG
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Old 28th April 2018, 07:09 PM   #12
riven67 is offline riven67  United States
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Well I'm collecting materials for my chassis and final build. Being on a tight budget right now, as I'm in the process of buying a home, I'm using what I have or can obtain cheap.

My brother gave me this aluminum street sign that is 12 x 15 so it's plenty big enough.
I removed the letters and numbers and am trying to decide if I want to keep the border or remove it also. I also have to decide if I want to use the reflective side or flip it and use the bare metal side for the top plate.

I need some wood to build a base for it but i can get that for next to nothing and finish it nicely.

One step at a time, I'll keep posting updates as I get closer to a finished amp.
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Old 1st May 2018, 02:30 AM   #13
riven67 is offline riven67  United States
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Join Date: Dec 2012
While I'm still deciding on the shape of the chassis, I was playing around with different layouts and boy is it going to be crowded.

Oh and I made a mistake the plate is actually 12 x 18 not 12 x 15 that I stated in my last post.

In the 2nd pic the choke and aux capacitor would actually be hidden underneath the plate not crammed in next to the tubes.
Any thoughts on placement of the transformers ? If anyone spots any obvious mistakes please let me know! Thanks
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Old 1st May 2018, 06:13 PM   #14
overtheairbroadcast is offline overtheairbroadcast  Canada
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Just wondering, maybe pic 1's layout, but the choke, can cap, and PT switching places with the OPT... The yellow wire nuts laid out like pic 3 with the gauges... And then the knobs on the front face...

I probably ought to be the last one commenting on layout because mine are embarrassing at times (drill one hole and then ask, "what was I thinking?") and everything ends up getting moved around again.
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Old 1st May 2018, 10:24 PM   #15
w5jag is offline w5jag  United States
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Location: Arkansas
I like #2, with the suggestion of just making the depth of the wooden box deep enough to put the capacitor and choke underneath the aluminum plate.

Win W5JAG

You asked about meter shunts - here's something:

http://soaraperformance.com/wp-conte...ultipliers.pdf

can't post it directly since it has a copyright notice - I've seen several different entities claiming the copyright ....

Last edited by w5jag; 1st May 2018 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 2nd May 2018, 11:45 PM   #16
riven67 is offline riven67  United States
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by overtheairbroadcast View Post
Just wondering, maybe pic 1's layout, but the choke, can cap, and PT switching places with the OPT... The yellow wire nuts laid out like pic 3 with the gauges... And then the knobs on the front face...

I probably ought to be the last one commenting on layout because mine are embarrassing at times (drill one hole and then ask, "what was I thinking?") and everything ends up getting moved around again.
Lol I guess I should have mentioned........

The wire nuts are standings for the switches, on/off, ss/rectifier, ul/tri, cfb/no cfb.

The large pots are standings for ma meters. The smaller pots are just what they are pot for volume and adjustable bias.

Last edited by riven67; 3rd May 2018 at 12:04 AM.
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