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SSE Rectifier Tube (5AR4)

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I'm back again to inquire what everyone is using these days as a rectifier. I bought a matched set of Tung-Sol tubes to run, the date code is 2013 but I purchased it in early 2015. It ran fine in my old amp before the PCB burn, and was transferred to the new one where after a few months (a few days ago) it would arc-over upon start-up but then quit almost immediately. I would say it probably had about 2 years of service running a few hours or more most days.

Is this a good lifespan, or did I get a questionable quality tube, or any other commentary here? Any other opinions on the TS 5AR4? Putting it in my tester, I get a lightning storm on one section when I go to check emission, so I'm guessing it is toast.

I'm trying to decide if I should buy another, try a Telefunken 5AR4, or something else entirely.

In the interim, I threw my backup Sovtek 5AR4 into the amp so I can continue to run.

For that matter, is there a quality difference between new tubes from eBay sellers, Amazon, and other online retailers? I'm curious if the higher prices are for better product or if that is only wishful thinking....
 
Indirectly heated rectifiers like the 5AR4/GZ34 are easier on power tubes due to their soft start characteristics.

I keep hearing that, and it may well be true. At the same time an awful lot of equipment, PA, HiFI, instrument and industrial back towards the end of the tube era used SS rectifiers as they became available. So question is, did they do that knowing that tube life were significantly limited or is the problem exaggerated?
 
Try a Gz34/5AR4 Genalex Gold Lion U77.(40$) Listen to classical music... It is airy, 3-D sound. Transparent and detailed with a heavy touch on the piano. The bass is power full and exact. particularly in combination with Telefunken diamant button 12AT7 / ECC81 from the 60` (50-80$ on e-bay new). In a tubelab SSE it is fantastic.

My Gold lion last now for 15 month. I think it sound much much better as the SS
In the Tubelab SSE. I think the SS option is far flatter in presentation as the rectifiers.
 
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OK, keep your eyes peeled for Matsushita 5AR4/GZ34 rectifiers with a seam across the top of the glass.
These were made in a plant set up by Philips in Japan.
SURE you could spend $65 any day of the week and snag one.
BUT, be patient and you will find them in the $45 range as well.

These are my favorite in my SPP.

I had immediate arcing of my Russian (JJ) 5AR4 one time I switched the power off and then back on again too soon.
Since switching to the Matsushita "Seam Top" I have not had this issue and I prefer them over any other rectifier.
I have seen them branded as Hitachi as well.
 
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I keep hearing that, and it may well be true. At the same time an awful lot of equipment, PA, HiFI, instrument and industrial back towards the end of the tube era used SS rectifiers as they became available. So question is, did they do that knowing that tube life were significantly limited or is the problem exaggerated?

I am certain the problem is greatly exaggerated. Especially since most directly heated rectifiers heat up far faster than the rest of the tubes anyway. So far I haven't read anything other than speculation about cathode stripping on anything smaller than transmitting tubes.

I had immediate arcing of my Russian (JJ) 5AR4 one time I switched the power off and then back on again too soon.
Since switching to the Matsushita "Seam Top" I have not had this issue and I prefer them over any other rectifier.
I have seen them branded as Hitachi as well.

Switching off and back on again quickly is very abusive to vacuum rectifiers, especially to indirectly heated ones like the 5AR4/GZ34. Doing that can kill an old 5AR4/GZ34 too.
 
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I agree it was accidentally abusive.
I however, have to wonder if 70 years ago when power quality wasn't as good as it is now, if every time there was a brief power loss that a majority of people listening to music would lose their rectifiers....IDK.
I do use a milspec 5U4 in my SPP when I use my 6414's up front due to their lower plate voltage limits.

All that being said, I am happy with my "Seam Top" rectifiers.
 
Dunno… I've found outstanding results with solid state and a series resistor to “soften” the rectification toward what valve-diodes provide. For instance, 100 Ω, CRCRC gives –77 dB ripple floor at 3rd stage, with 47 μF, 100 μF and 220 μF sequence of capacitors. 250 VRMS, full-wave-bridge rectification, 60 Hz, not-too-soft a start. 90% of nominal output at 0.5 seconds. 99% in 2 seconds. Stage 1 isn't smooth enough in my mind for driving an output; stage 2 is at –53 dB ripple. And it works.

But when I'm really “doing it right”, I just use SS rectification and a MOSFET source follower (series regulation) for voltage stabilization / ripple elimination. Works like a charm, delivers –50 dB or more, like that. Using Zener gate reference, regardless of input line voltage variations, output is solid. Like a rock.

GoatGuy
 
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I have bougt a 5AR4 matsushita nos on e-bay for 50$. for my SSE. I run it now about 50 hours. when I compare this tube with the Ganalex gold lion 5AR4 U77. (run also for about 50 hours) I hear a clearly acoustic improvement with the Genalex gold lion. It is more realistic, airy. better detail and voise in the mid. The bas is a litle less, but the bas sound more correct. I can especially hear this imprevement by playing LIVE IN CONCERT. f.eks. 10CC CLEVER CLOGS or live CD clasic music. There are a big difference in the tone by shwitching rectifier tube.
Maby I just like the Gold lion better, but I can just say try it in combination with Telefunken diamant button 12 AT7. I think The Gold lion sound far better.
 
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