• Disclaimer: This Vendor's Forum is a paid-for commercial area. Unlike the rest of diyAudio, the Vendor has complete control of what may or may not be posted in this forum. If you wish to discuss technical matters outside the bounds of what is permitted by the Vendor, please use the non-commercial areas of diyAudio to do so.

SSE build with toroidals?

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Almost ready to order all the parts after reading up on the SSE the last couple of weeks. I still have some questions though, hoping for a little guidance before i order everything. I am a student living in Scandinavia, which means im on a tight budget :rolleyes:

From what ive gathered, the Edcor is the bang-for-buck winner, but after shipping it across the big lake, its not cheap anymore... I have found some toroidal transformers, made in Poland. I was thinking about ordering both OPT and main from them. From what I've read, their toroidal chokes have had some issues, so a Hammond there.

LINK; Single Ended 5k 30W OPT with UL tap.
LINK; Mains transformer, have to be buildt to other specs...
84dd301f2f0160c11f821176a0be74ff.jpg



I have not found any other SSE`s with toroidals but after what I've gathered, it is costs that keep people from ordering toroidals? DC imbalances is an issue, but using balanced tubes with help? Is there anything i should think of in terms of layout and noise? I'm thinking of main under the hood, and the OPTS side by side on the top(straight on top of opts).

I have also made a purchase list from mouser with most of the other parts needed, except some high quality coupling caps, tube sockets, bindings post and smaller parts. Uncertain about the voltage rate for switches and the diode/ccs.

LINK; Mouser shopping cart for my Tubelab SSE

The parts list on tubelabs homepage has some parts which no longer is made, but i think i got everything right.

I'm thankful for all the help i get, steep learning curve about tubeamps, but oh my, its so fun :D
 
I highly recommend transformers from toroidy.pl. For a long time I have used them in my projects and I think they are excellent - especially the SUPREME AUDIO GRADE V2 version with steel case. An additional advantage is the ability to order any transformer configuration. Just write them and the company will make the transformer according to specifications - and that does not mean higher prices! :) The only drawback - the transformers made in this technology are large and heavy. At my monoblocks I have 500VA transformers - 17cm diameter, 8cm height, 5kg weight... ;>
 
Medisinmannen,

Wish you good luck with your build. As you mentioned, not many tube amps with toroidal transformers out there... would be interesting to hear from you how they work once you've done the build.

By diodes are you referring to these:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/IXYS/DSEI12-12A

I see you have already got coupling caps listed in your Mouser shopping cart. I've had good experience with Jantzen Superior-Z coupling caps in my tube amps. Audyn is also good.

Any other parts you are missing?

What speakers are you using?

Edit: Any particular reason why you've selected the following 33uf capacitor - 380LX330M500H012? There are other lower cost alternatives between the 22-47uf range that George (Tubelab) discusses in the notes on this page:

http://tubelab.com/designs/tubelab-sse/parts-list/

And please look up information/guidance on safety before starting this project, and follow the right guidelines at all times. There are lethal voltages in a tube amp circuit.
 
Last edited:
Found this thread a couple of days ago. Seems as the toroidals i was browsing is no good for OPTs.

I found a uncompleted/untested PCB with edcor opt (CXSE25) within my country(Norway). The PCB is halfway completed, might miss a couple of parts, but with coupling caps etc. Got the whole thing for less money than two OPT would cost(with shipping).

I do not know which parts i need, except switches and and main transformer. Was thinking the of Hammond 374(?) since opts have the same form. Will update when i have the PCB etc.
 
Oh, and my speakers will be System Audio Pandion 2. The dont have an linear impedance at all, from 8 ohm down to 4 at ~200hz. Plays well down to ~50hz. I do have a rythmik audio sub to compliment the speakers.

Have been think about swapping them "back" to some floorstanding Elac 247/407. Had Elac before and was very happy with them. Much more linear. Both these have around 88dB/1W.
 
Oh, and my speakers will be System Audio Pandion 2. The dont have an linear impedance at all, from 8 ohm down to 4 at ~200hz. Plays well down to ~50hz. I do have a rythmik audio sub to compliment the speakers.

Have been think about swapping them "back" to some floorstanding Elac 247/407. Had Elac before and was very happy with them. Much more linear. Both these have around 88dB/1W.

According to the manufacturer's website minimum recommended power for amplifier is 70 watts... The SSE will give you around 5 watts in triode mode.
 
To pick up my thread - exams done - SSE to be finished. Youre right, im was a bit optimistic about the pandions and SPL levels. Im on the verge of going back to some Klipsch RB61`s, but during the summer im borrowing some smaller Cerwin Vega. Ill see what the SSE will do.

Uhm, got my amp wired up in my chassis(hammond). Edcor CXSE`s and Hammond 374BX. Ive completed wiring and most chassis work. I do have plans for polished top and wooden sides after its running.

Now that im testing the amp - im not feeling quite confident. Ive checked fillaments and tubes voltages without anyone of them in. Can i test one tube at the time? First rectifier, then power tubes(one at the time or both?) etc? Im using a 8ohm dummy while testing...

Added some quick pictures. Any tips? Dont want it to blow up in my face :rolleyes:
 

Attachments

  • 20170603_125906.jpg
    20170603_125906.jpg
    713.4 KB · Views: 316
  • 20170603_133732.jpg
    20170603_133732.jpg
    995.4 KB · Views: 313
Check your chassis wiring and connections to the board. I am not saying you made a mistake, but remember that when connecting the board, as you have done, the wiring diagram is reversed because you're looking at the board from the bottom side.

There is no harm in double or triple checking your work prior to throwing the switch.

Charlie
 
Ive just got it up and running, but with no speakers connected. Ive got an B+ at 400v, dissipation at 20w. Using 5U4GB and EL34B. No AC on output(but no source either). 560 ohm bias. Will do a test with speakers before im trying with other tubes and increase bias current. Just happy it didnt blow up! I might order some testpoints to make measuring easier, aswell as screw terminals for bias resistors.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.