Melody50,
The only thing you'll need to be sure of is the cathode resistor values as these couple with current. For mine, I have a couple of switches so that I can run my EL34's with lower current than my KT88's or KT120's.
With my 10.2 Pensil speakers, I tend to play music with my EL34's as the sound is so much richer. As the drivers break-in, I may find that the KT88's begin to sound less clinical than the EL34's.
Charlie
The only thing you'll need to be sure of is the cathode resistor values as these couple with current. For mine, I have a couple of switches so that I can run my EL34's with lower current than my KT88's or KT120's.
With my 10.2 Pensil speakers, I tend to play music with my EL34's as the sound is so much richer. As the drivers break-in, I may find that the KT88's begin to sound less clinical than the EL34's.
Charlie
I'm on a steep learning curve here, since I've only built kits before but I am enjoying the challenge of this SSE.
If the choke resistance of 150 ohms is significant rather than essential, is it worth 'topping up the choke with a resistor in series? Say a Hammond 193J - 82 ohms + 68R + 150 Ohms
Then you get the higher henries, current and weight of a Hammond 193J or James JS -10-200S and still drop in 150 Ohms resistance.
If the choke resistance of 150 ohms is significant rather than essential, is it worth 'topping up the choke with a resistor in series? Say a Hammond 193J - 82 ohms + 68R + 150 Ohms
Then you get the higher henries, current and weight of a Hammond 193J or James JS -10-200S and still drop in 150 Ohms resistance.
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