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SSE first build, caps and other questions.

Hopefully some affordable 6L6GC, and then I'll also need a rectifier tube and another one.

Sovtek 5AR4 for rectifier and Electro-Harmonix KT88 or 5881WXT (6L6 variant) for power tube. They both are at Partsconnexion; prices aren't too bad. I prefer the sound of 5881 old stock but they are more $ than a EH-KT88 which I like VERY much. I think George uses them and recommends them as well. I've had a pair of the EH-kt88s running in various amps for years now still test new.

Cheers,
Bob
 
For tubes which tube are you thinking about using?? For driver I'd get an old stock 12AT7 - I don't like the sound of the reproduction (12AT7) tubes at all. The old stock sound very good and readily available look for Sylvania they should be in expensive and sound good. You can upgrade them later if you want to roll tubes in. Trust me on the new stock driver tubes they will make the amp sound like crap.

Cheers,
Bob

A +1 on the Sylvania.. I'm using a NOS Sylvania 12AT7 w/black plates and it sounds great.... even better than the Amperex Bugle Boy it replaced. The price wasn't too bad either...
 
+1 on the greenlee punch set...I picked up one on eBay with 5 common sizes for $30

Also for front end look at cv4204 it was a UK 12at7 variant...sounds nice.

Power tubes I have tried kt88, 6l6, el34, kt90, but my favorite is tung sol new issue 6550. For some reason I prefer them over the kt88 even.
 
Hi there,

I was fed up cutting out the hole for the IEC and installed a Neutrik powerCON on my SSE powerCON 20 A - Neutrik
Only a round hole to be drilled and a more secure connector, I think.

Best

Michael
 

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Sovtek 5AR4 for rectifier and Electro-Harmonix KT88 or 5881WXT (6L6 variant) for power tube. They both are at Partsconnexion; prices aren't too bad. I prefer the sound of 5881 old stock but they are more $ than a EH-KT88 which I like VERY much. I think George uses them and recommends them as well. I've had a pair of the EH-kt88s running in various amps for years now still test new.

Sovtek 5AR4 as rectifier, noted. I also think that if I can get a real affordable Telefunken rectifier that would be great too.

Bob, for the KT-88, do you know about some people saying they are more suited to the smaller Edcors instead of mine (CXSE-25-8-5K)?

I'll be trying to avoid losing anything in the higher-frequency bands. For great bass, I envision having a subwoofer output as well, so any information on this is helpful too.
 
Initial test fit for transformer and PCB holes.

With un-sanded black coats:, checking if the holes are large enough for all transformer wires and not abrasion occurs, if the screw holes are well-placed, and if the PCB holes are well-placed:

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3/4 shot:

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Back shot:

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For those big Edcors I use EH-KT88 you wont loose anything on the top end and will have enough bass for use without a sub if you main speakers are worthy. George designed this amp to give you full range. Be sure to add in the supplemental cap - you can get that at Partsconnexion as well. For the supplemental cap I like to use 100uF oil filled motor run caps (slightly smaller than soda can size ) - get them on ebay for $15 plus ship - for a big poly cap from Partsconnexion gonna get pricey.

Motor Run caps I use:
Run Capacitor 100 MFD 440V Round AC Electric Motor HVAC 440 Vac V Volts 100 Uf | eBay

The 440v rating is AC volts - this will be ~660vdc easily so no problem.

A Telefunken 5AR4/GZ34 is going to set you back a hundred or more dollars - save your money and get a Sovtek 5AR4. You can always upgrade tubes later. If you want to get a QUALITY driver 12AT7 - look for the triple mica versions. Again the Telefunken versions are $150 per tube and the GE 5 star versions are $15 or so, gonna be hard to justify the extra $130 for Telefunken. Not a big fan of Teles due to pricing, I have some I'm hording tho. :D:D I like the triple mica versions - triple mica is there for extra support to help keep microphonics (noise) to a minimum. Many manufacturers make the triple mica versions. Just don't waste your money on new stock as there are sooo many old stock out there that are much better sounding.

What I usually do is get a cheap set of tubes and build the amp, upgrade the tubes after I have a working amp. there's always a possibility you could smoke an expensive set of tubes with a wiring mistake during build/testing ... hard to do with the SSE but possible.


Cheers,
Bob
 
Can I do with Orange Drops or should I look for others?

I list the Auricaps and some other pricey caps because many builders want them.

I have found that they offer a small improvement in a TSE on a good system (good speakers, turntable, and quality transformers in the amp). I have one really nice TSE that does use Auricaps and Electra-Print OPT's and some 85 year old NX-483 output tubes. It is the best sounding amp I have. When I take it to visit my friends $20K Lowther based horns, it can hold it's own with some of his $$$ amps. The TSE is just a bit nicer sounding than a very low buck 6V6GT triode SSE on my Yamaha speakers.

I used some $2 generic white poly caps from Mouser in my SSE (Mallory maybe), and I have Orange Drops in my SPP, they are a good budget cap.
 
Hi George,

Hope you're well.

I am having a blast preparing the SSE amp, even getting into doing some of the chassis work. I think it's going to look good, perhaps not like a traditional tube amp, but more inspired by synth design. Hopefully, I can get some new pictures soon, the IEC plug hole has been a bit problematic so far.

Thanks for the info, I chose some cheap Solens from PartsConnexion, and hopefully they work well. The Edcors are definitely massive, so I went with a rather large amplifier chassis footprint for the SSE amp (partly inspired by synth modules and synths but also by an audiophile friend's Conrad-Johnson Premier and the Apple philosophy of leaving breathing space - this said, maybe the output transformers could be set wider).

So far, tubes are: KT-88 & 12AT7 by Electro-Harmonix, and a Sovtek 5AR4.

Is there anything particular that I have to take care with these?

Thanks a lot.
 
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I have one really nice TSE that does use Auricaps and Electra-Print OPT's and some 85 year old NX-483 output tubes. It is the best sounding amp I have. When I take it to visit my friends $20K Lowther based horns, it can hold it's own with some of his $$$ amps.

That's fun because I was just reading about Lowther drivers in a few articles about Nelson Pass and his Kleinhorns with Lowthers as well as current source amps.

Maybe one day I'll get around designing my own amp and speakers around these principles.
 
but more inspired by synth design.

Back in 1971 I was awestruck by watching Keith Emerson at an ELP concert. I started work on a digital synth of my own design in 71. It got abandoned when I got a full time job at the local Motorola plant. I simply bought an Odyssey. Now 41 years later, I have been "retired" from Motorola, and have started work on my own modular synth. It will take a while, but I will post some of it once it starts making sound.
 
That's cool, George. There are a lot of good people on Muffwiggler and Electro-Music who share info. Sometimes there are fantastic PCB runs too for those who don't do their own PCB.

I started with a DIY frame made from an old suit-case, together with a computer power supply for tinkering for now, and the first module will be a Thomas Henry VCO-555. I am going to make my own interface for it as I would not like to use a modular where the controls and the wires are entangled.

Enjoy, and hopefully we'll get to make some cool music with our gear.
 
There are a lot of good people on Muffwiggler and Electro-Music who share info

Member THeff on Electro-Music used to work with me at Motorola, and he lived a few blocks away. I saw several of his projects materialize. Unfortunately he got laid off about 4 years ago, got a new job, moved, and that company recently ceased operations, so we don't see each other very often anymore.

I have cut all the wood for a sloped front case that looks a lot like my old Odyssey. It will hold Eurorack modules, but I haven't built any modules yet. I am in the process of moving about 1200 miles, so I can't tell you where all the parts are right now. It could be a year or more, before I have my lab fully operational, but I hope to have something useful within a few months.

How the move going ?

As some know I lost my 41 year job at Motorola on March 31. My wife has always wanted to return to her home town, so we set out to move into the house her mother left her, one trailer load at a time. In early June we put the Florida house on the market, and set out for West Virginia in a 22 foot Penske rental truck loaded to within 150 pounds of max GVW. While we were unloading the truck in WV, we got a call from our real estate guy.....We had a contract on the house and we had to be out by July 3. So much for a slow orderly move.....now it's stuff everything in boxes and hope you can find it later. We should say goodbye to Florida around July 12.