SSE parts questions (new to forum)

winstonda · 2014-04-12 8:22 pm

Hello, my first post here. Thanks in advance for help with this.

I want to order the parts for the SSE and I'm having some trouble. Digi-Key has most, but not all of them.
I'm hoping someone can tell me what I can substitute for the parts listed below. I'd like to get them from Digi-Key, if possible, to save on shipping:

47uf 500V Electrolytic cap P7442-ND
120uF 500V Electrolytic cap P7451-ND
0.47 100V Mylar cap EF1474-ND
10K 3W metal oxide film resistor
150K 3W metal oxide film resistor
Heat Sink HS189-ND

Also, will these parts be OK to use?

0.22uf 450+V coupling cap https://www.tubedepot.com/products/audience-auricap-xo-22f-600v
Octal Socket https://www.tubedepot.com/products/8-pin-pc-mount-gold-socket
Noval Socket https://www.tubedepot.com/products/9-pin-pc-mount-gold-socket

Thanks again for any help!
David

astrodog · 2014-04-13 9:25 am

The high voltage caps I've found hard to source locally in the past, online you shouldn't struggle....
the resistors you can substitute for higher wattage rating of same resistance, you should be able to get 5W ones easily enough...
Lee

winstonda · 2014-04-13 1:24 pm

Thank you Lee.

Here is my Digi-Key shopping cart. I just want to make sure I don't order incorrect parts:

Invalid Request

I have decided to go with the cheaper Edcor XSE15-8-5 OPT's instead of the GXSE's for the following reason, and anyone, please correct me if my reasoning is unsound.
I am building this amp to power a pair of Buschhorn MK II's I built in '02 with the old, discontinued Fostex FE108 Sigmas (great drivers). These drivers are only rated down to 80hz, so spending the extra $36 on the GSXE's didn't make sense to me.
Also, is the Edcor XC75-2H-200ma choke a good one to use?

I'm ordering the PCB today. This will be my first DIY build, although I have owned a tube amp in the past (I had a Zen Select about 12yrs ago and I really miss the tube sound).

Thanks, David

mike567 · 2014-04-13 4:53 pm

you only want to buy the expensive parts once so you wont regret it later.

Will you up the speakers later?????????

winstonda · 2014-04-14 1:21 am

Thanks Mike. That's a great point... I guess for about the price of a decent tube I can have more amp in the long run.

jln · 2014-04-14 4:09 pm

David,
I'm also tooling up to build an SSE.
I went with Mouser for the lyrics and resistors. Shipping seemed like a small price to pay for convenience.
I substituted P4733-ND for EF1474-ND and
345-1019-ND for the heat sink.
I also ordered VS-HFA08TB120PBFGI-ND for D1 and D2 and UF4007CT-ND for D3 and D4.
Hopefully these will do the trick.
Best,
John

winstonda said:
Hello, my first post here. Thanks in advance for help with this.

I want to order the parts for the SSE and I'm having some trouble. Digi-Key has most, but not all of them.
I'm hoping someone can tell me what I can substitute for the parts listed below. I'd like to get them from Digi-Key, if possible, to save on shipping:

47uf 500V Electrolytic cap P7442-ND
120uF 500V Electrolytic cap P7451-ND
0.47 100V Mylar cap EF1474-ND
10K 3W metal oxide film resistor
150K 3W metal oxide film resistor
Heat Sink HS189-ND

Also, will these parts be OK to use?

0.22uf 450+V coupling cap https://www.tubedepot.com/products/audience-auricap-xo-22f-600v
Octal Socket https://www.tubedepot.com/products/8-pin-pc-mount-gold-socket
Noval Socket https://www.tubedepot.com/products/9-pin-pc-mount-gold-socket

Thanks again for any help!
David

jln · 2014-04-14 4:42 pm

I've been told that 10H choke is preferred.
Oh, and I orderd P9669-ND for the motor run cap, 50UF x 370v.

winstonda said:
Thank you Lee.

Here is my Digi-Key shopping cart. I just want to make sure I don't order incorrect parts:

Invalid Request

I have decided to go with the cheaper Edcor XSE15-8-5 OPT's instead of the GXSE's for the following reason, and anyone, please correct me if my reasoning is unsound.
I am building this amp to power a pair of Buschhorn MK II's I built in '02 with the old, discontinued Fostex FE108 Sigmas (great drivers). These drivers are only rated down to 80hz, so spending the extra $36 on the GSXE's didn't make sense to me.
Also, is the Edcor XC75-2H-200ma choke a good one to use?

I'm ordering the PCB today. This will be my first DIY build, although I have owned a tube amp in the past (I had a Zen Select about 12yrs ago and I really miss the tube sound).

Thanks, David

bobrown14 · 2014-04-14 5:16 pm

winstonda said:
Thank you Lee.

I have decided to go with the cheaper Edcor XSE15-8-5 OPT's instead of the GXSE's for the following reason, and anyone, please correct me if my reasoning is unsound.

Get the GXSE transformers, they work and sound good enough to use with any speaker. They come with end bells and will look and sound great.

Cheers,
Bob

winstonda · 2014-04-15 5:10 am

Thanks John! Looking forward to your build (assuming you do a thread on it here).
And, thanks Bob! I have decided to go with the GXSE's.

Now, for another newbie question: do I need to install the FREDs if I'm going with a tube rectifier?

spendorite · 2014-04-15 12:44 pm

winstonda said:
Now, for another newbie question: do I need to install the FREDs if I'm going with a tube rectifier?

You can leave the FREDs out if installing a tube rectifier.Just leave them out, no jumpers required.

Here it is from the "horse's mouth" ........

18th May 2010, 09:14 PM #2

AlaxuC2JMzg4H2dSSZt3SxGq6K8dfwSAW5r7ZTTbN9Wpl2cb0NxP0pCZPnCfCXum6A+mfjxtBu40VWYBYA32BeCSxDMpcAAAAASUVORK5CYII=

tubelab.com

foFogYSDhgtWW4qLWwIHRkeQkkiTkZSRQZmamzadnp8qoaKjHKWmpxEAOw==

diyAudio Member

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/members/tubelab-com.html

Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida

YES, that is the correct number. You don't need them at all if you are planning to use only a tube rectifier.
The FREDs are only used if you want the solid state rectifier option. Many builders simply leave them out.
They can also be added later if desired.

__________________

winstonda · 2014-04-15 2:20 pm

Thanks spendorite.
I'm trying to read through as many threads here as I can, and, of course, the actual TubeLab pages, too. I'm gathering stuff up to print out, and hopefully I'll find that most of my questions have already been answered somewhere.

winstonda · 2014-04-16 2:32 am

Thanks again to everyone for your advice.

I am going with the Edcor GXSE15-8-5K OPT's, but now I have a question about PT's.

I will be using a tube rectifier, and I'd like to be able to try both 6L6′s and EL-34′s (and maybe KT-88's at some point).

So, would one of these PT's be a better choice than the other?

XPWR033
760V (380-0-380) at 200mA center tapped, 6.3V at 5A and 5V at 3A. $59.48

XPWR035740V (370-0-370) at 200mA center tapped, 6.3V at 5A and 5V at 2A. $79.88

One more question.

Is there any reason why I can't solder all the parts - except the tube sockets - on the top of the PCB (where the markings are), and put only the sockets on the bottom? That way, I'd be less likely to make a mistake. Then, I could mount the board upside-down in the chassis with only the tubes on top. Or, do the resistors need to be on top of the board for proper heat dissipation?

Thanks,
David

zman01 · 2014-04-16 8:01 am

XPWR033 should work fine, especially if you want to go with KT88 later.

spendorite · 2014-04-16 1:05 pm

winstonda said:
One more question. Is there any reason why I can't solder all the parts - except the tube sockets - on the top of the PCB (where the markings are), and put only the sockets on the bottom? That way, I'd be less likely to make a mistake. Then, I could mount the board upside-down in the chassis with only the tubes on top. Or, do the resistors need to be on top of the board for proper heat dissipation?

Thanks,
David

You CANNOT mount the tube sockets on the bottom of the PCB
because then the pins will be totally misaligned. They MUST be
monted on the top of the PCB so that the pins are aligned exactly
as printed.

bobrown14 · 2014-04-16 1:15 pm

spendorite said:
You CANNOT mount the tube sockets on the bottom of the PCB
because then the pins will be totally misaligned. They MUST be
monted on the top of the PCB so that the pins are aligned exactly
as printed.

+1 - it's not difficult to mount in the inverted position, just follow George's website instructions - it's all spelled out there. I put all my resistors & sockets on the top of the pcb and everything else on the btm. The FREDS and the other chips were the only little trick part but George shows you how to do it by marking a leg with black marker so you get the orientation correct. That was the only somewhat tricky part. Double check before soldering and you should be good.

Cheers,
Bob

spendorite · 2014-04-16 1:57 pm

bobrown14 said:
+1 - it's not difficult to mount in the inverted position, just follow George's website instructions - it's all spelled out there. I put all my resistors & sockets on the top of the pcb and everything else on the btm.

Cheers,
Bob

He was asking about the TUBE SOCKETS and that's what I
responded to. I don't see anywhere in George's instructions that the
tube sockets can be mounted on the bottom of the PCB.
I see you've also mounted your sockets on the TOP of the PCB.

winstonda · 2014-04-16 2:16 pm

spendorite said:
You CANNOT mount the tube sockets on the bottom of the PCB
because then the pins will be totally misaligned. They MUST be
monted on the top of the PCB so that the pins are aligned exactly
as printed.

Thanks! It's obvious now that I think about it. It didn't register last night when I posted. I'll just put everything but the caps on the top.

After some extensive forum searching and re-reading George's page I'm sticking with the Edcor XPWR035. Interesting that the 035 weighs 3lbs more than the 033... I guess the extra iron accounts for the extra $20 in price?

David

spendorite · 2014-04-16 2:44 pm

winstonda said:
Thanks! It's obvious now that I think about it. It didn't register last night when I posted. I'll just put everything but the caps on the top.

After some extensive forum searching and re-reading George's page I'm sticking with the Edcor XPWR035. Interesting that the 035 weighs 3lbs more than the 033... I guess the extra iron accounts for the extra $20 in price?

David

The two CCS with the heat sinks will stand taller than the tube sockets so these should also go on the bottom of the PCB. So should the terminal blocks for connecting the wires as this will make it easier for wiring up the board.
You should probably do like most builders and mount the sockets and resistors on top of the PCB and everything else on the bottom.

The Edcor XPWR035 power transformer is an excellent choice and has been recommended by George. One thing you should bear in mind is that the 5V winding for the rectifier tube is rated for 2 amps so you will not be able to use rectifier tubes requiring 3 amps such as 5U4. However 5AR4, 5V4 and other 2A rectifiers will be okay with this transformer.

bobrown14 · 2014-04-16 4:14 pm

spendorite said:
He was asking about the TUBE SOCKETS and that's what I
responded to. I don't see anywhere in George's instructions that the
tube sockets can be mounted on the bottom of the PCB.
I see you've also mounted your sockets on the TOP of the PCB.

ummm I was giving you a thumbs up there and agreeing with you?? There's only one way to mount the sockets to the board.

You could of course mount the sockets to the chassis and use standoffs and wire the sockets to the board instead of using PCB mount sockets and use say an 807 tube or something in the 6L6 family with different pin configuration, there are a few.... and a few good ones there.

Cheers,
Bob

spendorite · 2014-04-16 5:44 pm

bobrown14 said:
ummm I was giving you a thumbs up there and agreeing with you?? There's only one way to mount the sockets to the board.

Cheers,
Bob

Sorry Bob, I was just clarifying my point about the tube sockets, didn't intend to take umbrage at your post.