Hi everyone,
I've been connecting up my amp on a board to do a practice run before the final chassis build and I'd like to check I've wired up my power supply transformer correctly.
Its an Edcor XPWR059 which I need to run at 240v.
Now, I've connected the two red 375v wires to T1-RED (terminals 01 & 03)
I've connected the two 2.5v brown wires to T1-YEL.
I've also connected the high voltage CT blackwith red trace to T1-RED/YEL (terminal 02)
Lastly, the 3.15v yellow wires have gone to the T1-GRN terminals.
Is that correct?
One other question. I have an Edcor choke which has a black and yellow wire but I can't see anything anywhere to differentiate the two wires asides from colour. Should I connect them a specific way round on L1 or not?
Thanks guys.
Gavin
I've been connecting up my amp on a board to do a practice run before the final chassis build and I'd like to check I've wired up my power supply transformer correctly.
Its an Edcor XPWR059 which I need to run at 240v.
Now, I've connected the two red 375v wires to T1-RED (terminals 01 & 03)
I've connected the two 2.5v brown wires to T1-YEL.
I've also connected the high voltage CT blackwith red trace to T1-RED/YEL (terminal 02)
Lastly, the 3.15v yellow wires have gone to the T1-GRN terminals.
Is that correct?
One other question. I have an Edcor choke which has a black and yellow wire but I can't see anything anywhere to differentiate the two wires asides from colour. Should I connect them a specific way round on L1 or not?
Thanks guys.
Gavin
Hi.
Was in the same situation as you . there is a post on it : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/230773-basic-questions-configuring-tube-amp.html
Edcor's Red goes to T1 RED
Edcor's Brown goes to T1 Yellow
Edcor's Yellow goes to T1 GRN
There is no difference in the choke wires, just connect it to the relevant terminals as in the wiring diagram.
PAY ATTENTION : When you connect the black/white to green to have 240V in series, you might blow fuses! If so, the wiring colors of the scheme is not the same as in real. (If it doesnt happen, you are good)
Let me know your results.
Was in the same situation as you . there is a post on it : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/230773-basic-questions-configuring-tube-amp.html
Edcor's Red goes to T1 RED
Edcor's Brown goes to T1 Yellow
Edcor's Yellow goes to T1 GRN
There is no difference in the choke wires, just connect it to the relevant terminals as in the wiring diagram.
PAY ATTENTION : When you connect the black/white to green to have 240V in series, you might blow fuses! If so, the wiring colors of the scheme is not the same as in real. (If it doesnt happen, you are good)
Let me know your results.
Mudchute: As Sagi mentioned, his XPWR059 transformer was incorrectly wired from the factory. See posts 54-63 in his thread linked above.
Before powering up, I would check the resistance of both of your transformer primary windings.
If it's wired correctly from the factory, you should see around 3.6 ohms between the black and black/white and around 3.6 ohms between the green and green/white wires.
Before powering up, I would check the resistance of both of your transformer primary windings.
If it's wired correctly from the factory, you should see around 3.6 ohms between the black and black/white and around 3.6 ohms between the green and green/white wires.
Report: Mine was wired correctly and I fired it up first time last night, passed the smoke test and sounded great despite its test ply board set up.
Another Question: I'm now looking to getting the last few littel bits to make a chassis and final build. Is it worth using any boutique wires or cables anywhere inside the amp? Like to and from the RCA/speaker terminals/volume pot etc?
Another Question: I'm now looking to getting the last few littel bits to make a chassis and final build. Is it worth using any boutique wires or cables anywhere inside the amp? Like to and from the RCA/speaker terminals/volume pot etc?
Not as critical as the input wires, as the signal is much larger going to the speakers, so whatever you want. I usually use plain ol' 18-20ga wire.
If you are wiring anything else on the HV side of the power transformer, use 600V rated wire. With Tubelab's PCB, you just wire the transformer secondaries to the PCB which are already 600V rated. For example, if you are adding and off-board motor run cap or a choke without integral leads, use 600V rated wire, as you will be exceeding the rating of 300V wire.
The PW series is pretty well-suited for that location. They are low impedance types. The PA series is even lower, but I doubt you'd notice the difference. The 47uF cap is not very important. A higher impedance may be better for the sake of the rectifier. If you have a film cap bypassing C2 already (the "auxiliary" cap), then the type is not so important. If C2 is on its own, a better cap can improve performance. Whether or not it would be audible is debatable.
The coupling cap is a matter of taste. Folks spend a lot of time and money playing around with those.
The coupling cap is a matter of taste. Folks spend a lot of time and money playing around with those.
A low output impedance out of the power supply is usually a good thing. Using low ESR rated caps in the PS will help keep the output impedance low, so that when the amp demands lots of current it is available from the PS without much voltage drop. In a class A amp (which all single ended amps are) the current draw from the PS is constant so it's not clear to me if low ESR will make much difference in SE amps.
Low ESR caps are typically specified for power supply use in the specs and usually have a ripple current rating.
You can play with coupling caps; consider Russian surplus caps from Ebay. They are very affordable and high quality. There are at least 1/2 dozen different types of Russian caps (PIO, teflon, etc) and any of these will plug and play provided they are the appropriate uf and voltage rating. The Teflon FT Russian caps are big.
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