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Pictures of your Tubelab amp

Here's my Simple SE, which I brought to Burning Amp 2007. It's built in a roasting pan. I flipped the handles, and painted it in grey Rustoleum Hammertone. It has Transcendar OPT's, Allied PT, EL34's, and big motor run cap in the PS. The second switch was the standby, which is now disabled. I may go back and add a volume pot there someday. It's a nice, synergistic match with my 8" Hemp Audio full-rangers in Metronome cabinets.

Bill
 

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Here's my Simple SE, which I brought to Burning Amp 2007. It's built in a roasting pan. I flipped the handles, and painted it in grey Rustoleum Hammertone. It has Transcendar OPT's, Allied PT, EL34's, and big motor run cap in the PS. The second switch was the standby, which is now disabled. I may go back and add a volume pot there someday. It's a nice, synergistic match with my 8" Hemp Audio full-rangers in Metronome cabinets.

Bill
If you ever wander about the rear end of a Williams Sonoma you can find such chassis in the dumpster. We've outfitted the kitchen with stuff purloined from the detritus of DINK's who moan about a nick in the stainless finish...
 
3 Amigos

My TubeLab amps:

1. Transcendar OPT for 6L6, EL 34, and 5881
2. One Electron OPT for KT88 and 6550
3. Electrprint OPT fpr SE 300B or 2A3
 

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My Tubelab SE w/ 300B

I built mine with detached power supply section. The PT has been changed to toroidal one since this photo was taken.
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Back side. OPT are Electra Print 3K Ohm.
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A glow shot.
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Just a try, if any one needs these, id sell them / TRADE for a volume knob - Knob's,

for my B1 pre-amp :)

2 x 100ma Tube Meter's with mounting screws, bought them for 40$ 2 years ago, never used them, bought them for a pair of tube amp's.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

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Evenharmonics:
Where did you get the meters? Are they VU or bias meters? And do you recall how much they were?

Thanks.
I bought them from an internet vendor in NJ but they are no longer in business. You can still get new ones for around $10 on ebay (do a search under panel meter). In my TSE amp, those meters show bias level for output tubes. I removed R18, R29 and connected the leads in place of those resistors (per Tubelabs reply on this forum).
 
Thanks!

The chassis is Maple with some splating and burl, and I used figured Walnut for the corners. Ebay has a great selection of craft wood, I got mine from antlersexpress. I recently picked up some amazingly nice walnut from him to make a rack out of. I also managed to get enough Maple and closeout Harbor Freight plumb bobs to make speaker stands too.

2008_0210SpeakerStands0007.jpg
 
Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
Tubelab SE 300b

Here is a recently completed Tubelab SE. Chinese Mesh Plate 300b. The plates really are not glowing red, my camera plus software enhances just makes it look that way. They do have a pretty blue on the glass from electron emmision. Compared to my kt88SSE, this amp is much more detailed and has better sound stage. Bass is also much tighter and deeper. Bit of apples to orange comparison though since the outputs are the bigger edcor csxe's.
 

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I guess I need to add a few pictures of mine, even though they aren't finished yet.

The first one is a working 6CW5 amp. The 6CW5 version uses a solid state rectifier. The volume control, power switch, speaker and input jacks, and IEC connector aren't mounted yet. In fact the amp is still connected up with clip leads, but I haven't been here. I might get it finished next weekend if it doesn't rain.

The second picture is a different board wired up as a PPP mono block. It is running on an external power supply in this picture so I could determine just how much power I could get out of it before it exploded, and what voltage would be needed to do so. Then I could back up a little. :D The picture was taken at the point where I decided that I was rather fond of this amp in working condition, so I stopped at 420 volts! I was using 4 well used 1962 vintage 6BQ5's and I was getting 60 watts out of them. The mono block conversion was accomplished in this case by removing one 12AT7 and attaching a few clip leads. I am already planning to repeat the experiment and completly document the modifications. A complete amplifier is planned.

The third picture is the same as the second but the room lights are turned on.

More pictures after these guys (and their siblings) are finished. There really will be pictures of amps with the rectifier tube in them.
 

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The second picture is a different board wired up as a PPP mono block. It is running on an external power supply in this picture so I could determine just how much power I could get out of it before it exploded, and what voltage would be needed to do so. Then I could back up a little. :D The picture was taken at the point where I decided that I was rather fond of this amp in working condition, so I stopped at 420 volts! I was using 4 well used 1962 vintage 6BQ5's and I was getting 60 watts out of them. The mono block conversion was accomplished in this case by removing one 12AT7 and attaching a few clip leads. I am already planning to repeat the experiment and completly document the modifications. A complete amplifier is planned.

Oh boy, now I'm probably going to have to buy two! What kind of power would you expect at some more sane voltage?
 
Simple SE, KT66, Edcor transformers. Front panel and volume knob has been fixed and replaced since photo was taken.
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Specially for this amp I built a set of horn type of speakers (Visaton BG20 elements were used)
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Result? My good ol Sony have got no speaker-time since my Elise (as Beethoven's "Für Elise") got ready.
 
What kind of power would you expect at some more sane voltage?

I will know more after I get back to this. Some "EL84's" seem to self destruct at much over 15 watts per pair which would give 30 WPC in dual mono blocks, but these and the current production JJ's seem happy at 25 to 30 watts per pair. I will shoot for the most power available without over stressing good tubes (JJ or the old Sylvanias). I will aim for 40 to 50 WPC, but a lot depends on finding a suitable power transformer.

See post 15 in this thread:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/157517-when-will-simple-p-p-ready.html
 
Here is a recently completed Tubelab SE. Chinese Mesh Plate 300b. The plates really are not glowing red, my camera plus software enhances just makes it look that way. They do have a pretty blue on the glass from electron emmision. Compared to my kt88SSE, this amp is much more detailed and has better sound stage. Bass is also much tighter and deeper. Bit of apples to orange comparison though since the outputs are the bigger edcor csxe's.

Wow, now thats some nice woodworking (as opposed to my amp, which just has some nice wood) :worship:

Is that a preamp in the background of the 1st pic?