Kkcinc,
To be fair, what voltage is low enough to do antique style? Any voltage high enough to cause current to flow through the body's tissues is dangerous, including our source of 120 VAC. If you contact it you may get hurt or worse. If you do not contact it, no worries.
Having said that, you are 110% correct.
Right now the amp runs in an enclosed room behind my audio rack which has a lockable door. I am trying to source some of that old antique expanded metal that you see at times covering tube equipment or old oil burning stoves. I will have a box built that will fit around the board and wires and fasten it to the chassis. Retro look, safe, adequate cooling, and still see the glow. Nirvana! Thanks.
Steve
To be fair, what voltage is low enough to do antique style? Any voltage high enough to cause current to flow through the body's tissues is dangerous, including our source of 120 VAC. If you contact it you may get hurt or worse. If you do not contact it, no worries.
Having said that, you are 110% correct.
Right now the amp runs in an enclosed room behind my audio rack which has a lockable door. I am trying to source some of that old antique expanded metal that you see at times covering tube equipment or old oil burning stoves. I will have a box built that will fit around the board and wires and fasten it to the chassis. Retro look, safe, adequate cooling, and still see the glow. Nirvana! Thanks.
Steve
My SSE:
Edcor GXSE OPTs and XPWR035 PT, JJ EL34 tubes with 680ohm cathode resistor, UL/Triode switch and CFB switch, tube rectification. The only unique modification to the SSE design is the addition of an RCA selector switch so it can run double duty for home theater without swapping wires. At some point I'd like to buy some different tubes and add a selector switch for variable cathode resistance like so many people here have done, but that can wait. The chassis design is shamelessly stolen from others on this thread and constructed of red oak, cherry, and 1/8" aluminum. Thanks to Tubelab for a great circuit design and PCB and thanks to the DIYAudio community for all the useful information on this forum.
Edcor GXSE OPTs and XPWR035 PT, JJ EL34 tubes with 680ohm cathode resistor, UL/Triode switch and CFB switch, tube rectification. The only unique modification to the SSE design is the addition of an RCA selector switch so it can run double duty for home theater without swapping wires. At some point I'd like to buy some different tubes and add a selector switch for variable cathode resistance like so many people here have done, but that can wait. The chassis design is shamelessly stolen from others on this thread and constructed of red oak, cherry, and 1/8" aluminum. Thanks to Tubelab for a great circuit design and PCB and thanks to the DIYAudio community for all the useful information on this forum.
Attachments
Well done. You put a lot more effort into than I did. I used 2 x 4 stud lumber.
+1
I am working on a similar wooden case TSE right now, except it is a two box design, with the power supply in a separate box.
I hope my box won't be embarrassed next to yours.
Randy
I just was not happy with the first chassis for this amp, it did not do it justice.
Curly maple?
Looks great, bet it looks even better in person.
Wondering how you finished it?
I bought some curly maple for my amp. Planning to dye to pop the grain, then shellac, and the some type of clear finish, either lacquer or poly.
Randy
Woodworking
Thank you for the compliment. I believe it's cherry. I always wet the wood to get an idea of what it will look like finished. I hunted for that stuff for a long time. I finished it with minwax polyurethane, two coats sanded with 320 between coats.
I also tried the oil-modified water clean up poly, don't use it it looked terrible.
If the lumber you selected doesn't look good after dampening it with water I would look for a different piece
Thank you for the compliment. I believe it's cherry. I always wet the wood to get an idea of what it will look like finished. I hunted for that stuff for a long time. I finished it with minwax polyurethane, two coats sanded with 320 between coats.
I also tried the oil-modified water clean up poly, don't use it it looked terrible.
If the lumber you selected doesn't look good after dampening it with water I would look for a different piece
Thank you for the compliment. I believe it's cherry. I always wet the wood to get an idea of what it will look like finished. I hunted for that stuff for a long time. I finished it with minwax polyurethane, two coats sanded with 320 between coats.
I also tried the oil-modified water clean up poly, don't use it it looked terrible.
If the lumber you selected doesn't look good after dampening it with water I would look for a different piece
Thanks for the tip.
I read somewhere else the solvent works well to find defects, it gives the wood the same wet look, and then dissolves away.
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