I know this is probably not correct t thread but here are a few measurements from post #3.
Pics of Russian big bottle plots 6N13S (6as7 type). Gives a chance to learn more about the Motu m4 too. Op-amp is standard TI ne5532.
The harmonic is intentional, I changed the board to output the error signal instead of corrected output, otherwise there is zero distortion.
The tube is dead-end in the circuit and serves only as a signal modifier.
The magnitude of 2nd and 3rd is determined by tube and CCS. The 3rd ratio starts increasing gradually around 1,5v. Otherwise its 20db below 2nd.
Two or three months is a lot of time to develop circuits.
Pics of Russian big bottle plots 6N13S (6as7 type). Gives a chance to learn more about the Motu m4 too. Op-amp is standard TI ne5532.
The harmonic is intentional, I changed the board to output the error signal instead of corrected output, otherwise there is zero distortion.
The tube is dead-end in the circuit and serves only as a signal modifier.
The magnitude of 2nd and 3rd is determined by tube and CCS. The 3rd ratio starts increasing gradually around 1,5v. Otherwise its 20db below 2nd.
Two or three months is a lot of time to develop circuits.
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Wow, I am so sorry to read the situation you're in.
I have some parts and items from international sources. Timing isnt right, considering. How do you go about your clean / disinfect of electronics after unpacking? Please let us know - I spose I could just let them sit in the garage unopened for a month...
Thanks!
Well I am not sure if I will end up in isolation, unless I become Ill, but even so I have some thoughts of projects I will start, IF I do have some down time.
Got some ceramic octal and b9a sockets, some tag strip and a piece of plywood, 4k/5k:4/8/16R tapped OPTs.
I received some russian valves a few weeks ago, 6P6S and 6P1P, and I want to try both strapped in triode, at first as vacuum state only.
I haven't looked far into it yet, but I have noticed a lot of folks using these as 6V6 subs. Also I've read that they may be similar, but G1 volts need to be somewhat more negative, to bias at a reasonable current.
So far I have gotten as far as planning a 250-300V HT voltage, biasing at more than -20 Vg1, so perhaps a Rk of 1k to 2k.
Got some ceramic octal and b9a sockets, some tag strip and a piece of plywood, 4k/5k:4/8/16R tapped OPTs.
I received some russian valves a few weeks ago, 6P6S and 6P1P, and I want to try both strapped in triode, at first as vacuum state only.
I haven't looked far into it yet, but I have noticed a lot of folks using these as 6V6 subs. Also I've read that they may be similar, but G1 volts need to be somewhat more negative, to bias at a reasonable current.
So far I have gotten as far as planning a 250-300V HT voltage, biasing at more than -20 Vg1, so perhaps a Rk of 1k to 2k.
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@mondogenerator
Not sure if its my batch but the 6N13S have quite a spread on G1 within same triode bottle.
They require between -8v and -11v anode at 1ma. Have not really seen that before. But they work great.
Next week I'm running tests on the 6v6 and 6l6 in triode mode.
@MagicBus
We build Confederate Civil War Ironclads for fun. I cut blocks of wood on angles, glue and paint, add cannon, smokestack and wheelhouse. All wood and simple.
Grandchildren give them names like CSS Sabine etc. They are pond capable. Next project will be a CSS David style torpedo boat.
Not sure if its my batch but the 6N13S have quite a spread on G1 within same triode bottle.
They require between -8v and -11v anode at 1ma. Have not really seen that before. But they work great.
Next week I'm running tests on the 6v6 and 6l6 in triode mode.
@MagicBus
We build Confederate Civil War Ironclads for fun. I cut blocks of wood on angles, glue and paint, add cannon, smokestack and wheelhouse. All wood and simple.
Grandchildren give them names like CSS Sabine etc. They are pond capable. Next project will be a CSS David style torpedo boat.
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