That’s no fun drilling steel studs out of an aluminum casting
There’s some very good rust dissolving oil/spray that I have used for over 30 years. It’s from a company named Maltby’s here in the states. I haven’t seen it sold for a long time, however, one day while waiting at the Toyota parts counter at a local dealership, I spotted a can marked as a Toyota branded product. It had the same long spray tube taped to the outside of the cap as the one I had at home from years ago. One smell under the cap, and that confirmed that it was the same product.
I will spray the offending part daily for a week before heating the area up and attempting the removal, rocking back and forth gradually, to loosen things.
I got my last set of alloy wheels very cheap, as they were attached with locks to a car, had to drill out all the studs, similar to what you have done. The wheel studs are hardened too...
There’s some very good rust dissolving oil/spray that I have used for over 30 years. It’s from a company named Maltby’s here in the states. I haven’t seen it sold for a long time, however, one day while waiting at the Toyota parts counter at a local dealership, I spotted a can marked as a Toyota branded product. It had the same long spray tube taped to the outside of the cap as the one I had at home from years ago. One smell under the cap, and that confirmed that it was the same product.
I will spray the offending part daily for a week before heating the area up and attempting the removal, rocking back and forth gradually, to loosen things.
I got my last set of alloy wheels very cheap, as they were attached with locks to a car, had to drill out all the studs, similar to what you have done. The wheel studs are hardened too...
That’s the kind you never want to get stuck in any kind of bad weather driving!
That would be a locker or a true “spool” even, from what it sounds, which is just a chunk of metal with internal splines for each axle; makes it like one big axle.
A 4wd will chatter like that also on dry pavement; oops, am pretty sure that’s what you were referring to...
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Uh no. You'll have to trust me, this was nothing like a mild 4WD chatter of any sort. It was the only locking front diff I have owned. I hope never to own another unless I live in snow country. Then there's nothing else like it.
For now I'll stick with the Escape and its 'intelligent' 4WD. More than enough for the Vancouver climate.
That’s no fun drilling steel studs out of an aluminum casting
There’s some very good rust dissolving oil/spray that I have used for over 30 years. It’s from a company named Maltby’s here in the states. I haven’t seen it sold for a long time, however, one day while waiting at the Toyota parts counter at a local dealership, I spotted a can marked as a Toyota branded product. It had the same long spray tube taped to the outside of the cap as the one I had at home from years ago. One smell under the cap, and that confirmed that it was the same product.
I will spray the offending part daily for a week before heating the area up and attempting the removal, rocking back and forth gradually, to loosen things.
I got my last set of alloy wheels very cheap, as they were attached with locks to a car, had to drill out all the studs, similar to what you have done. The wheel studs are hardened too...
I tried soaking it over night with 50/50 stf and acetone, wd40 penetrant oil and some crc penetrant followed by a MAP torch. There was no chance to remove the studs. I even tried to weld nuts on the end of the studs before I decided to cut them flush with the head.and drill them.
Drilling them was plan F or G.
Salt spray during the winter and humid salty climate really make bolts stick here.
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If you have time to let things soak, you may be surprised, I have been many times...
The best/worst was the 1959 Alfa 2600 rear brakes on the Guilia race car; bleeder screws were very stuck, and brittle/rusty. The parts were next to irreplaceable so they were sprayed daily for two months. Might want to keep some around if you have a Toyota dealership convenient.
Overnight isn’t very long really to soak for nasty stuff like that, and a week has done the trick for most.
This is the best rust breaking product I’ve used, and I have tried many.
Glad my cars are in a salt free area here, that’s no fun.
Cal-
That’s likely the kind of locking diff that I have seen skate right off the road before, maybe they had bad tires(?)
The best/worst was the 1959 Alfa 2600 rear brakes on the Guilia race car; bleeder screws were very stuck, and brittle/rusty. The parts were next to irreplaceable so they were sprayed daily for two months. Might want to keep some around if you have a Toyota dealership convenient.
Overnight isn’t very long really to soak for nasty stuff like that, and a week has done the trick for most.
This is the best rust breaking product I’ve used, and I have tried many.
Glad my cars are in a salt free area here, that’s no fun.
Cal-
That’s likely the kind of locking diff that I have seen skate right off the road before, maybe they had bad tires(?)
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Quaif LSD's are not locking diffs, nor are they a clutch/plate style diff. Completely different animal which progressively transfers torque to the wheel with the most grip. Quaife ATB Limited Slip Differential - Quaife
They come with a lifetime warranty (for the original purchaser) as well. I put one in my 306 S16 when the original diff exploded.
Tony.
They come with a lifetime warranty (for the original purchaser) as well. I put one in my 306 S16 when the original diff exploded.
Tony.
Attachments
Re: Studs in Alloy.
Nitric acid will eat steel, but leave aluminum alone after rapidly putting a hard oxidised layer upon it. You can go a little further and wire the parts up, using electrolysis.
With the engine in situ, it could be awkward to bathe them properly, but it's an option if you can get Nitric at a decent concentration. Fuming acid, as we called the stronger stuff, was taken off us here in the UK a few years ago. Around the same time Hydrogen Peroxide was watered down to about 12%. The two together made too good a bang. We can't even have mini rockets without a license, and our rocketeers can't use solid fuel motors. They have to burn plastic(hybrid rocket motors).
But Nitric.. It works. If you can get it!
S16.. We put one in a 205. Still need a diff now lol
Nitric acid will eat steel, but leave aluminum alone after rapidly putting a hard oxidised layer upon it. You can go a little further and wire the parts up, using electrolysis.
With the engine in situ, it could be awkward to bathe them properly, but it's an option if you can get Nitric at a decent concentration. Fuming acid, as we called the stronger stuff, was taken off us here in the UK a few years ago. Around the same time Hydrogen Peroxide was watered down to about 12%. The two together made too good a bang. We can't even have mini rockets without a license, and our rocketeers can't use solid fuel motors. They have to burn plastic(hybrid rocket motors).
But Nitric.. It works. If you can get it!
S16.. We put one in a 205. Still need a diff now lol
I went to my mechanic today and saw a 2.0L V6 Mazda 323 "BA" model being worked on. You want to see a tight fit then look no further lol.
Anyway I was there getting my mums V6 camry looked at, found out it has a leak from the sump and the top tappet cover gaskets at the rear of the engine, there is our oil consumption...
Anyway I was there getting my mums V6 camry looked at, found out it has a leak from the sump and the top tappet cover gaskets at the rear of the engine, there is our oil consumption...
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Could be. Could also be driving outside of the truck's limit. Goodness knows I see enough guys driving at 80Km/h in slippery conditions, not knowing the 4WD is good at getting you going but not so good at helping you stop. Ignorance is bliss until you need pulling out of a ditch.
I picked up some supposedly jesus-tier Mobil Super 2000 X2 10w40 engine oil today. Unfortunately they sell them in 4 Liter containers which I didn't realize until after I had bought it so I will have to go back to 7-11 and buy another liter of it (a quart for the yanks), every other oil I've ever bought for the last 10 years has been in 5 Liter containers so you have some left over once you're done filling your 4 Liter engine sump.
Might do better than the current Castrol Magnatec 10w40 I've currently got in the engine though I'm not entirely sure how I'm going to define how better performing its going to be, I guess it will make my wallet a few grams lighter because a $50 AUD note is missing from it now. And therefore weight reduction! $50 note missing from wallet = +10HP!
Yes it costs $50 for 4 Liters, good grief.
First visual impressions out of the bottle are that its a very clean looking and clean smelling oil (yes I took a whiff of the bottle when I opened it.) Hardly any smell from it at all, whereas all other oils reak of high heaven and are coloured very yellow.
Maybe the content of impurities in the oil = a measure of how easily the oil breaks down? Wish I owned a gas chromatograph.
Only thorough scientific tests would ever be able to be the judge of that of course.
Anyway its going into my 3VZ-FE V6 engine along with a genuine Toyota oil filter and 6x new Denso Iridium Twin Tip spark plugs (Part # IQ20TT) = the three combined should provide endless thousands of km's of "driving pleasure" a term coined by Australian tv ads, not entirely sure what sex has to do with driving so I'm not sure why a word like "pleasure" is used outside of the bedroom and on prime time television so that I could see it when I was a kid. Especially considering that the engine doesn't burn any oil at all, not a single drop.
I'm expecting the spark plugs to last at least for 100,000km and maybe even to 150,000km. The engine oil and engine oil filter ehhhh, might change it out at 4,000km but I'll wait and see what it looks like. I generally like to wait until it begins to brown but not become black. Apparently the Toyota genuine oil filters will make your engine oil last a hell of a lot longer between changes compared to "counterfeit" ones, but that begs the question, just how crappy are "counterfeit" Toyota oil filters compared to the aftermarket oil filters? YouTube
Might do better than the current Castrol Magnatec 10w40 I've currently got in the engine though I'm not entirely sure how I'm going to define how better performing its going to be, I guess it will make my wallet a few grams lighter because a $50 AUD note is missing from it now. And therefore weight reduction! $50 note missing from wallet = +10HP!
Yes it costs $50 for 4 Liters, good grief.
First visual impressions out of the bottle are that its a very clean looking and clean smelling oil (yes I took a whiff of the bottle when I opened it.) Hardly any smell from it at all, whereas all other oils reak of high heaven and are coloured very yellow.
Maybe the content of impurities in the oil = a measure of how easily the oil breaks down? Wish I owned a gas chromatograph.
Only thorough scientific tests would ever be able to be the judge of that of course.
Anyway its going into my 3VZ-FE V6 engine along with a genuine Toyota oil filter and 6x new Denso Iridium Twin Tip spark plugs (Part # IQ20TT) = the three combined should provide endless thousands of km's of "driving pleasure" a term coined by Australian tv ads, not entirely sure what sex has to do with driving so I'm not sure why a word like "pleasure" is used outside of the bedroom and on prime time television so that I could see it when I was a kid. Especially considering that the engine doesn't burn any oil at all, not a single drop.
I'm expecting the spark plugs to last at least for 100,000km and maybe even to 150,000km. The engine oil and engine oil filter ehhhh, might change it out at 4,000km but I'll wait and see what it looks like. I generally like to wait until it begins to brown but not become black. Apparently the Toyota genuine oil filters will make your engine oil last a hell of a lot longer between changes compared to "counterfeit" ones, but that begs the question, just how crappy are "counterfeit" Toyota oil filters compared to the aftermarket oil filters? YouTube
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It was very entertaining to watch, all those huge tires spinning away, truck not going forward as intended...
Those iridium plugs are pretty good for sure, and last a very long time.
This is why you gap your spark plugs, so that the spark isn't bent by the fuel/air mix that is entering the combustion chamber via the intake:
YouTube
Basically you index your spark plug's negative terminal so that it is on the same side as your intake valves so that it acts as a shield against the incoming air/fuel mixture.
YouTube
Basically you index your spark plug's negative terminal so that it is on the same side as your intake valves so that it acts as a shield against the incoming air/fuel mixture.
East Tennessee adage " 4-Wheel drive just gets you stuck in more inaccessible places".
******** Toyota advertisement.
There are plenty of after market filters which meet or exceed Toyota filter specifications.
They are talking about "Counterfeit" parts, not alternate supplier solutions. Just a bunch of hype.
Makes a very minor difference in land speed record racing. Othewise, more hype.
Yes, I have pitted for LSR competition vehicles.
I don't bother with indexing my plugs.