So, I'm going through my power amplifier and "upgrading" (among other things) the 14 guage power cable. Of course, one lead goes to a post on the fuse holder, a rear hex nut; panel mount type; for 1/4" x 1-1/4" fuses - and realize that in comparison to the fairly hefty solder "post" connection coming out the rear of the holder, the other solder connection, part of which "loops around the barrel" of the holder, is "really puny" and can "flex easily" - certainly in comparison to the conductor I'm trying to solder to it.
Any of you notice this - what I would call "weak link" in the "power supply cabling chain"? AND have you evaluated, and could RECOMMEND a part number and manufacturer of what I hope would be a "more robust" holder?
THANK YOU
Charles
Yeah; and we can talk "audiophile fuses" later.......?!
Any of you notice this - what I would call "weak link" in the "power supply cabling chain"? AND have you evaluated, and could RECOMMEND a part number and manufacturer of what I hope would be a "more robust" holder?
THANK YOU
Charles
Yeah; and we can talk "audiophile fuses" later.......?!
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A fuse holder holds a fuse. The fuse blows at or just above the rated value of the fuse. End of. There is no improvement in perceived sound quality!
If you have trouble soldering to the wires, practice more until you are competent to solder without damaging the wires and surrounding components.
Changing the fuse holder will keep the looks the same or change the look. Nothing more with the exception that some fuse holders are not suitable for domestic use. That is clearly marked on the specifications and approvals document available at the point of sale.
Why use 14g mains cable? How much current does your amplifier take? 14AWG is 2.08 mm2 which is good for more than 20Amps!
If you have trouble soldering to the wires, practice more until you are competent to solder without damaging the wires and surrounding components.
Changing the fuse holder will keep the looks the same or change the look. Nothing more with the exception that some fuse holders are not suitable for domestic use. That is clearly marked on the specifications and approvals document available at the point of sale.
Why use 14g mains cable? How much current does your amplifier take? 14AWG is 2.08 mm2 which is good for more than 20Amps!
Change to a 5 x 20 mm fuse with the same current rating. They actually have a bit lower resistance as the internal wire is the same but a bit shorter.
Then use a Buss or Littlefuse brand holder.
Typical 03455LF1H Littelfuse | Mouser
Then use a Buss or Littlefuse brand holder.
Typical 03455LF1H Littelfuse | Mouser
Try Acme
Will an Acme Cryogenic Treated Silver Plated fuse holder work for you?
Acme Audio Labs - Products
Will an Acme Cryogenic Treated Silver Plated fuse holder work for you?
Acme Audio Labs - Products
Acme's prices appear to be, well.......,ah..competitive!
For only $12 you can get a "Cryogenic Treated Silver Ceramic Fuse" (I wonder how many ounces of silver are in one.)
But the "real deal" is the " Cryogenic Treated Silver Ceramic Fuse with Special Sauce". It's only $4 more!
I assume the "special sauce" is also "Cryogenic Treated".
Lookout McDonalds!
For only $12 you can get a "Cryogenic Treated Silver Ceramic Fuse" (I wonder how many ounces of silver are in one.)
But the "real deal" is the " Cryogenic Treated Silver Ceramic Fuse with Special Sauce". It's only $4 more!
I assume the "special sauce" is also "Cryogenic Treated".
Lookout McDonalds!
Was this conclusion reached via a double-blind test? If not, it is NOT valid. People who claim to hear a sound difference between mains cables should be made to prove it, because it has NO scientific basis whatsoever.
Fuse holder and cable
I find this most interesting that the sound of a piece if gear can change with the changing of a 1-2 metre power cable.
What about the "bad" wire from the wall outlet (Never mind the contact resistance of plug to the wall socket on these American flat pin connectors) to the breaker board and then the wire from your home to the distribution transformer and then heaven forbid the wire from the transformer to the main generating plant.
How can 1-2 metres affect the sound?
Nobody has ever done a direct blind A-B listening test with power cords so the time interval in turning off gear, changing the cable and then powering up again is way to long to hear in perceived differences.
No power cable has enough inductance and X or Y capacitance to affect how the power supply behaves
I find this most interesting that the sound of a piece if gear can change with the changing of a 1-2 metre power cable.
What about the "bad" wire from the wall outlet (Never mind the contact resistance of plug to the wall socket on these American flat pin connectors) to the breaker board and then the wire from your home to the distribution transformer and then heaven forbid the wire from the transformer to the main generating plant.
How can 1-2 metres affect the sound?
Nobody has ever done a direct blind A-B listening test with power cords so the time interval in turning off gear, changing the cable and then powering up again is way to long to hear in perceived differences.
No power cable has enough inductance and X or Y capacitance to affect how the power supply behaves
They use resettable nowadays. Which is obviously bad for sound quality.
The good quality PSUs stick with soldered fuses like this one here
Death of a Gutless Wonder Review
Oh dear, you picked a power supply, cut price, cut corners and the review is ripping it to bits!
Most quality SMPSU both commercial and domestic power supplies use either resettable or glass of either wire ended, Wickman type or cartridge 20mm/35mm type. Some are sand filled, some are open glass.
There is nothing wrong with magnetic resettable fuses. Most new build houses use them!
In certain high reliability applications you will make a product as connectorless as humanly possible -- connectors and other electromechanical parts are one of the least reliable bits of an electronic product...
Perhaps the OP lives in a very high vibration area? On a fault line? In which case I'd recommend removing all connectors, and make sure there are good soldered connections throughout, all the way back to the power substation. And maybe persuade the power company to uses fuses with Acme's special sauce too...
Perhaps the OP lives in a very high vibration area? On a fault line? In which case I'd recommend removing all connectors, and make sure there are good soldered connections throughout, all the way back to the power substation. And maybe persuade the power company to uses fuses with Acme's special sauce too...
That is for cheapness.
DIY reheating the endcaps to solder connection wires is not advisable.
Dan.
I have worked with plenty of people with degrees, sometimes multiple degrees. Some of them could barely tie their own shoelaces! And I wouldn't let them actually touch anything that mattered. But of course a degree qualifies one to be an expert on everything.
I can't get a grip on the mains cable "upgrade" either,not that i haven't got an open mind on such matters,but after travelling who knows how many miles before eventually reaching your household circuit and through various cables of variable quality etc,how can a few inches of " ultra expensive conductor make a significant change to sound ?
It's just an imaginary performance " upgrade " surely? But i guess if i'd just spent a months salary on a few bits of wire and a shiny plug i doubt if i my ears would admit there was no change in sound.
It reminds me of the first experience i had with the little Tripath amps.I thought it was amazing how the tiny little Lapai i'd purchased on a whim , cos it looked cute , produced the quality and volume of sound i was hearing. After 30 odd years of A/B monsters my brain was having a hard time and although my ears didn't care whenever i sat down to listen my eyes kept stealing glances in it's direction and sending messages to my brain like " you know this isn't possible dont you? it's far to small and cheap "
At first i ignored this and sat in a darkened room when listening but that big blue ring around the volume wouldn't let me forget.
And then a moment of genius , i dug out an old wooden case from a dead 70 's Pioneer amp i'd butchered and " upgraded " the Lapai by installing it and the psu inside, running cable from the springclips to some binding posts at the rear and made an extended volume shaft from a cylinder of aluminium glued to the Lapai 's own and ran it through a small bearing in the front of the case and slotted a knob from a vintage tv on to it.
Slotted the upgraded Tripath back into my rack fired up a cd and WOW sounded fantastic !
In reality the only thing that had changed was my visual perception yet my ears heard improvements that hadn't previously been noticeable simply because my eyes and ears were now in unison .
The only mains cables i can hear a difference with are so called conditioners and it's always negative at times turning good a setup into a lifeless dull one , or maybe its just the colour of them,the few i've heard were black and red , that causes this ?
It's just an imaginary performance " upgrade " surely? But i guess if i'd just spent a months salary on a few bits of wire and a shiny plug i doubt if i my ears would admit there was no change in sound.
It reminds me of the first experience i had with the little Tripath amps.I thought it was amazing how the tiny little Lapai i'd purchased on a whim , cos it looked cute
, produced the quality and volume of sound i was hearing. After 30 odd years of A/B monsters my brain was having a hard time and although my ears didn't care whenever i sat down to listen my eyes kept stealing glances in it's direction and sending messages to my brain like " you know this isn't possible dont you? it's far to small and cheap "At first i ignored this and sat in a darkened room when listening but that big blue ring around the volume wouldn't let me forget.
And then a moment of genius , i dug out an old wooden case from a dead 70 's Pioneer amp i'd butchered and " upgraded " the Lapai by installing it and the psu inside, running cable from the springclips to some binding posts at the rear and made an extended volume shaft from a cylinder of aluminium glued to the Lapai 's own and ran it through a small bearing in the front of the case and slotted a knob from a vintage tv on to it.
Slotted the upgraded Tripath back into my rack fired up a cd and WOW sounded fantastic !
In reality the only thing that had changed was my visual perception yet my ears heard improvements that hadn't previously been noticeable simply because my eyes and ears were now in unison .
The only mains cables i can hear a difference with are so called conditioners and it's always negative at times turning good a setup into a lifeless dull one , or maybe its just the colour of them,the few i've heard were black and red , that causes this ?
Hey - thank you for all the interest and "factors" to consider
Didn't think to do a search at Digikey or Mouser for 30A holders. Now have much to chew on.
And, you're right Jon; "silly me" for actually experiencing differences - multiple times even. Must have been the phase of the moon.
Charles
Didn't think to do a search at Digikey or Mouser for 30A holders. Now have much to chew on.
And, you're right Jon; "silly me" for actually experiencing differences - multiple times even. Must have been the phase of the moon.
Charles
In my opinion for what it's worth , we all enjoy music and tinkering with the equipment that produces it and regardless of mine or any others views they are simply that , differences of opinion .
If you enjoy what you do and regardless of cost , science or the phases of the moon it increases your enjoyment then surely thats the only end result that counts . Happy diy 'ing .
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