Slighly wrong, again.
There is red diesel, not was.
Farmers used it when in Land Rovers? Range Rovers more likely
I was only recently speaking to a farmer in my daughter's village in Wales. He brought his John Deere tractor down to my grandsons birthday party. Technically, speaking, he said it should only be on the road for farm related business...
Cal: does your instant pot have the Sous vide funtion*? If so have you calibrated the water temperature accuracy. Trying to decide if it's worth the 50 extra bucks just to save me 15 mins on making ice cream custard.
* I know you have the fancy water jobby so you probably don't, but worth asking.
* I know you have the fancy water jobby so you probably don't, but worth asking.
Sous vide was not an available feature when I got our Instantpots (6 & 8 quart). My immersion heater is a just an Anova wand type that you attach to a food cooler. I did measure it when I got it and IIRC it was close enough or I think I would remember. Thing is, you get used to what it says on the dial and how the food comes out so the actual temperature is not critical.
The thermo I use the most is the kind that has an immersible wand on a cord that plugs into the module. Timers, alarms and the such are all included. I’ll go see it I can find a pic.
EDIT: This one. Not bluetooth but I am sure they are avaialble. https://www.amazon.ca/KitchenAid-Kitchen-KN127OHSSACN-Gourmet-Thermometer/dp/B01N10PWZK
I also use an infrared heat gun sometimes.
EDIT2: As suspected, there are many. https://www.google.com/search?q=dig...MTAyMzlqMGo0qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
EDIT: This one. Not bluetooth but I am sure they are avaialble. https://www.amazon.ca/KitchenAid-Kitchen-KN127OHSSACN-Gourmet-Thermometer/dp/B01N10PWZK
I also use an infrared heat gun sometimes.
EDIT2: As suspected, there are many. https://www.google.com/search?q=dig...MTAyMzlqMGo0qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
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We got two electronic thermometers... one is the insertion one, it has a metal stick that put into the liquid.
The other is one of them "red laser light" jobbies. Looks like a hand gun. It's good for cooking, very easy. It's also very good for figuring out if the Aleph 2 amps are over heating.. hint.. the heatsinks reach 60C on those babies...
OK, we MADE CHURROS... with thick Spanish chocolate and whipped cream,
Forgot to take pictures. We ate it all. A mid afternoon Saturday feast. I pulled a double shot of espresso into my chocolate and a shot of Kalua liqueur. If we were in Spain, I'd be smoking a cigarette by now... but being Americans, we'll probably digest that food in front of the TV.
Our sous vide is the SousVide Supreme... the large one... without that foofoo WiFi connection. Just a big stainless steel box... It runs quietly and you don't hear/notice it. Great for 48 hours of cooking.
https://sousvidesupreme.com/
My daughter has one of them "industrial" submersion jobbies... with a couple of big, clear bins. It's a PITA, IMHO, Steals the sink in the island when she runs it. No Wifi for her either.
Our food doesn't need to deal with the IoT. Why?
The other is one of them "red laser light" jobbies. Looks like a hand gun. It's good for cooking, very easy. It's also very good for figuring out if the Aleph 2 amps are over heating.. hint.. the heatsinks reach 60C on those babies...
OK, we MADE CHURROS... with thick Spanish chocolate and whipped cream,
Forgot to take pictures. We ate it all. A mid afternoon Saturday feast. I pulled a double shot of espresso into my chocolate and a shot of Kalua liqueur. If we were in Spain, I'd be smoking a cigarette by now... but being Americans, we'll probably digest that food in front of the TV.
Our sous vide is the SousVide Supreme... the large one... without that foofoo WiFi connection. Just a big stainless steel box... It runs quietly and you don't hear/notice it. Great for 48 hours of cooking.
https://sousvidesupreme.com/
My daughter has one of them "industrial" submersion jobbies... with a couple of big, clear bins. It's a PITA, IMHO, Steals the sink in the island when she runs it. No Wifi for her either.
Our food doesn't need to deal with the IoT. Why?
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Well maybe, 50 years ago?. But, Range Rover came in to existance as a brand around about 1970. I love the way he's an expert on all things UK.
Agenda
Tony, and Bob, thanks for the heads up and photos.
You do get industrial thermo-couples intended for liquid use, some for quite a pH range for chemical plant use.
A normal stainless steel sheathed one connected to a temperature indicator should be good enough for home use in liquids.
You also get controllers, which can control the heat input, with ramp speed, hold time, and control ban functions, so it will bring the process to working temperature, hold it for a set time, then gradually cool it down.
And yes, maybe an app exists for that, to remote control such a unit.
As such, a lot of options exist to modify an existing unit, rather than buy a new one.
You do get industrial thermo-couples intended for liquid use, some for quite a pH range for chemical plant use.
A normal stainless steel sheathed one connected to a temperature indicator should be good enough for home use in liquids.
You also get controllers, which can control the heat input, with ramp speed, hold time, and control ban functions, so it will bring the process to working temperature, hold it for a set time, then gradually cool it down.
And yes, maybe an app exists for that, to remote control such a unit.
As such, a lot of options exist to modify an existing unit, rather than buy a new one.
Land Rover as in farmer's vehicle running on tractor fuel, mucking about off the road.
Now Range Rover is a new model of Land Rover, like Audi and VW, 3 year old Audi models turn up as VW models.
Little difference in the innards.
I do not think they sell in large volumes now, the 1970s Range Rover was very popular.
Now more likely a Toyota, Nissan or Mahindra, as Land Rover is not famously reliable.
Now Range Rover is a new model of Land Rover, like Audi and VW, 3 year old Audi models turn up as VW models.
Little difference in the innards.
I do not think they sell in large volumes now, the 1970s Range Rover was very popular.
Now more likely a Toyota, Nissan or Mahindra, as Land Rover is not famously reliable.
Naresh-
For sous vide what's important is holding the temperature accurately. This is due to using low enough temps that it could be an issue if it got too cold.
Ramp up, ramp down, etc... is pretty much irrelevant. The cook, YOU, handles all of that.
I'll give you an example My Sousvide Supreme samples the temperature setting every minute. If the temp had dropped, then it will go into a 50% duty cycle of ON/OFF, every other second. It draws 1000 watts doing this. Once it reaches the desired temp, it stops. Pretty much this action gives it an accuracy of 1F degree.
It does have some timer foo foo stuff which I don't ever use.
For this, it is accurate, silent and unobtrusive... or as unobtrusive as a big box of stainless steel can be. During use, it's silent.
For sous vide what's important is holding the temperature accurately. This is due to using low enough temps that it could be an issue if it got too cold.
Ramp up, ramp down, etc... is pretty much irrelevant. The cook, YOU, handles all of that.
I'll give you an example My Sousvide Supreme samples the temperature setting every minute. If the temp had dropped, then it will go into a 50% duty cycle of ON/OFF, every other second. It draws 1000 watts doing this. Once it reaches the desired temp, it stops. Pretty much this action gives it an accuracy of 1F degree.
It does have some timer foo foo stuff which I don't ever use.
For this, it is accurate, silent and unobtrusive... or as unobtrusive as a big box of stainless steel can be. During use, it's silent.
I was referring to the general purpose controllers sold in the market, they can be set for the kind of performance you need.
As an after purchase modification, as in the case of Bill, who may feel like doing it.
In my field, I hold the hot runner heaters at 75 C for five minutes, then 95 C for 5 minutes, to allow moisture to evaporate, the heaters can blow if heated too fast as they go above 100 C, and believe me, that is a big job on a multiple heater mold.
Also I hold them at 50% voltage at start up, so the inrush current is restricted.
Also, the cooling off can be gentle or natural, and the temperature band (+/-) can be set.
Automatic thermo-couple type sensing, and scan time can be set.
All this can be programmed into a general purpose controller, controlling the heaters via Thyristor drive.
For on-off working, SSR or contactor of proper rating...for gas, ask somebody who has experience.
Those things cost about $15 and up nowadays, total will be less than $100, box, SSR and all if done here in India. Not Thyristor, that may be different cost.
I cheated, used a dimmer on a single point controller, I set it to full after it reaches 120 C, and the controller works a a normal on-off controller after that.
Before that, 90V to a 220V heater, I put a volt meter in the output wires.
Hey, it works, it is simple for the shop floor people to use, and reliable.
You do not need to do all this, it was built into your machine when you bought it.
Your unit seems to be an on-off action with a 1 minute scan time.
As an after purchase modification, as in the case of Bill, who may feel like doing it.
In my field, I hold the hot runner heaters at 75 C for five minutes, then 95 C for 5 minutes, to allow moisture to evaporate, the heaters can blow if heated too fast as they go above 100 C, and believe me, that is a big job on a multiple heater mold.
Also I hold them at 50% voltage at start up, so the inrush current is restricted.
Also, the cooling off can be gentle or natural, and the temperature band (+/-) can be set.
Automatic thermo-couple type sensing, and scan time can be set.
All this can be programmed into a general purpose controller, controlling the heaters via Thyristor drive.
For on-off working, SSR or contactor of proper rating...for gas, ask somebody who has experience.
Those things cost about $15 and up nowadays, total will be less than $100, box, SSR and all if done here in India. Not Thyristor, that may be different cost.
I cheated, used a dimmer on a single point controller, I set it to full after it reaches 120 C, and the controller works a a normal on-off controller after that.
Before that, 90V to a 220V heater, I put a volt meter in the output wires.
Hey, it works, it is simple for the shop floor people to use, and reliable.
You do not need to do all this, it was built into your machine when you bought it.
Your unit seems to be an on-off action with a 1 minute scan time.
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Hmm.. I used to program heat and vibration machines. The heat/cooling had to follow given profiles, so I had to take into account the temperature, the change of temperature ( first derivative ) and velocity of the temperature ( second derivative ).
As well as calculating the overall energy in the system ( a function of the mass of components in the chamber ).
The required heating profiles were measured and had to match the requirements... with NO overshooting.
It was a challenge for sure.
Today, that all gets done automatically. Pfft...
As well as calculating the overall energy in the system ( a function of the mass of components in the chamber ).
The required heating profiles were measured and had to match the requirements... with NO overshooting.
It was a challenge for sure.
Today, that all gets done automatically. Pfft...
Proportional - Integral - Derivative action, but the ramping is not part of that.
The action can be as per the sensor and control type, so you can also have that action on a vibration controller, or a chemical mixer, or whatever, it was part of the Control Engineering subject in college.
It basically describes the response of the system to a change in the input signal.
And I do not know what you do in real life, you may be an accountant for all I know (no offense intended), then I would have to explain once again.
And you may not be the only one to read the post.
So, basically I recommend a programmable temperature controller, with PID or PIDD action, controlling a SSR of about 25A rating, and a stainless steel / food safe thermo-couple, as a retrofit or modification for your sous vide device.
You may or may not use the ramp / hold functions, they are built in, you can turn those functions on when needed, default was off on mine.
The action can be as per the sensor and control type, so you can also have that action on a vibration controller, or a chemical mixer, or whatever, it was part of the Control Engineering subject in college.
It basically describes the response of the system to a change in the input signal.
And I do not know what you do in real life, you may be an accountant for all I know (no offense intended), then I would have to explain once again.
And you may not be the only one to read the post.
So, basically I recommend a programmable temperature controller, with PID or PIDD action, controlling a SSR of about 25A rating, and a stainless steel / food safe thermo-couple, as a retrofit or modification for your sous vide device.
You may or may not use the ramp / hold functions, they are built in, you can turn those functions on when needed, default was off on mine.
You called me an accountant....
When I was programming those chambers, we wrote our own "PID" software. We didn't buy no stinking PID controllers then, we MADE our own PID controllers.
Which was a PITA as it required floating point arithmetic which slowed down the core substantially... so I ended up breaking up the calculations into base and exponent... each floating point became two 32 bit integers... Imagine that... today a single ARM core will handle that with aplomb.
Accountant... did I ever tell you how I took some SQL "code" and by optimizing it I cut the report generation from 3 seconds to 150msec or so? Our customers, accountants writing SQL, weren't that impressed... pfftt...
Accountant...
BTW, I made an error in the first post. The second derivative of the temperature is the acceleration. It was used to prevent overshoots and ringing. As I recalled, you measured the temperature and its velocity. Controlled the velocity and acceleration to maximize the fall and rise times but then started to lower the programming factors as you got to the desired temperature to prevent overshooting and ringing. The desired profiled followed almost a square wave with steep rise and fall times.
We measured the energy, ie: the mass in the chamber, as a calibration in the beginning. A static value.
When I was programming those chambers, we wrote our own "PID" software. We didn't buy no stinking PID controllers then, we MADE our own PID controllers.
Which was a PITA as it required floating point arithmetic which slowed down the core substantially... so I ended up breaking up the calculations into base and exponent... each floating point became two 32 bit integers... Imagine that... today a single ARM core will handle that with aplomb.
Accountant... did I ever tell you how I took some SQL "code" and by optimizing it I cut the report generation from 3 seconds to 150msec or so? Our customers, accountants writing SQL, weren't that impressed... pfftt...
Accountant...
BTW, I made an error in the first post. The second derivative of the temperature is the acceleration. It was used to prevent overshoots and ringing. As I recalled, you measured the temperature and its velocity. Controlled the velocity and acceleration to maximize the fall and rise times but then started to lower the programming factors as you got to the desired temperature to prevent overshooting and ringing. The desired profiled followed almost a square wave with steep rise and fall times.
We measured the energy, ie: the mass in the chamber, as a calibration in the beginning. A static value.
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Outstanding, I'm sure
What century are you living in?
Can you walk on burning coals also?