Good morning gentlemen,
I like the tube illumination design but not in blue colour and less bright... I would prefer it in a warm white glow (apparently, I am not the only one in this case) Therefor, I would like to order new diodes but I have seen, earlier, in this thread that we have to uses same diode specification to keep original voltage... please, could you advice me by telling me which diode is the best solution for this modification.
I thank you really much in advance.
Have a nice Sunday
I like the tube illumination design but not in blue colour and less bright... I would prefer it in a warm white glow (apparently, I am not the only one in this case) Therefor, I would like to order new diodes but I have seen, earlier, in this thread that we have to uses same diode specification to keep original voltage... please, could you advice me by telling me which diode is the best solution for this modification.
I thank you really much in advance.
Have a nice Sunday
I have seen some misalignment like this when I assembled the prototype, but for me it was no problem to push the front panel into position to put the screws in. I have not heard issues from other builders. So I don't know exactly what your situation is. It is possible that tolerances somehow stacked up against you.
Skewing the jack might be a solution, or enlarging the hole in the panel. I think we should do that on the next run of chassis - loosen the holes up a bit to accommodate tolerances.
The holes are plated through, so it should be no issue if the pins don't stick through the PCB.
Pete
I have not tried it, but going by the datasheets, this one seems close enough:
LTW-420D7 Lite-On Inc. | Optoelectronics | DigiKey
(Not much color temperature selection in white LEDs, I'm afraid, so this one is not exactly "warm"...)
Pete
I experienced a "funny" issue. I have built two Starving Students so I have two 48 VDC PSU's. I was using one of the SS's as preamp for M2X amplifiers. Then after a while I could hear a weak "sizzling" sound (when no music was playing). I found out that the sound came from the two tubes. I let it cool down and started up again. During warm-up there was no sound but again after a while the sound was there. Then I switched PSU and problem gone. Next step would be to measure the 48 VDC ripple noise with oscilloscope but I think I will just go for another PSU. As I have no Earth (safety ground) in the outlets I can use a PSU without.
I am looking at this one in 48 VDC configuration:
https://docs-emea.rs-online.com/webdocs/1679/0900766b816793b7.pdf
It should work?
Is there a 48 VDC linear PSU alternative?
I am looking at this one in 48 VDC configuration:
https://docs-emea.rs-online.com/webdocs/1679/0900766b816793b7.pdf
It should work?
Is there a 48 VDC linear PSU alternative?
By the way…..it plays very nice as preamp. Very listen friendly. I feel I have better/deeper bas as when I just used a passive preamp. Also have a feeling that the dynamics and 3D imaging is better.
I think this adapter (with P1J DC connector) could also be a good alternative as PSU. Mean Well seems to have a good reputation.
GST120A48-R7B | Netadapter, bordmodel, 1 Udgang 120 → 370 V dc, 85 → 264 V ac +-1% +-2.5% -30 → +70 degC P1J 2.5A 48V | RS Components
I think this adapter (with P1J DC connector) could also be a good alternative as PSU. Mean Well seems to have a good reputation.
GST120A48-R7B | Netadapter, bordmodel, 1 Udgang 120 → 370 V dc, 85 → 264 V ac +-1% +-2.5% -30 → +70 degC P1J 2.5A 48V | RS Components
Attachments
For desktop bricks, From my personal experience on nuhybrid, sl power psu are much quieter than meanwell. I assume tdk ones are even better.
A nice little Sunday afternoon project and my first DIY valve kit. A well put together kit and everything fits nicely. It has a very pleasant and characterful sound too.
Has anyone tried this kit with a better quality volume control? Is it possible to get the pcb on its own? I'm asking this as my immediate feeling is that the existing volume pot may be limiting what the circuit may be capable of. Plus, I could try it with Dale resistors,etc.
Many thanks to Pete Millett and diyAudio store for providing us all with such good quality kits.
Has anyone tried this kit with a better quality volume control? Is it possible to get the pcb on its own? I'm asking this as my immediate feeling is that the existing volume pot may be limiting what the circuit may be capable of. Plus, I could try it with Dale resistors,etc.
Many thanks to Pete Millett and diyAudio store for providing us all with such good quality kits.
I actually have one left in the warehouse from when we offered to send them to people who got batch 1 with the smaller pads. Please email contact@diyaudiostore.com to start a ticket and the helpdesk will get it to you.
Question - the chassis - where is it from? I'm thinking a linear, regulated power supply might be a fun/easy 'upgrade' and lord knows I have the transformers to suit. Ideally I'd like a matching case though, so can anyone tell me the model/maker?
Edit - silly question - it'll be hi fi 2000 I assume!
Edit - silly question - it'll be hi fi 2000 I assume!
Last edited:
Aspringv thanks, I was pretty sure this amp would drive low impedance cans, due to specs but some assurance is always good. Yes the case is a nice one. It looks like a small Galaxy 1 case to me, but that is just a guess. Milling the front would be an issue for me as I have no quick access to a milling machine.
Edit.I see your assumption is like mine a hifi 2000 case....
Edit.I see your assumption is like mine a hifi 2000 case....
Last edited:
Pre-orders for a SSII tube rolling kit are now open...
Starving Student II Headphone Amplifier – diyAudio Store
Thanks to Pete for opening up his stash of tubes for us
Starving Student II Headphone Amplifier – diyAudio Store
Thanks to Pete for opening up his stash of tubes for us
Correct. The base is a Galaxy 1U 124x170mm Aluminum chassis ($59). You could reproduce the SSII chassis or make your own total customized with these services: Front 10mm panel CNC both sides ($70), Re-anodize 10mm panel after working ($25), Printing front and back ($70), rear CNC ($30), top cover CNC ($30), total $284. For a matching linear regulated power brick, you might not need any services at all - just DIY and drill some holes in the rear panel of a stock chassis. Maybe and add matching text on front (we could get you the same font and size so it matched).
I adore wooden chassis. I still have a pre-amp from Peter Daniels from a decade ago which has pride of place in my collection. It's a work of art. Don't let me persuade you from getting a chainsaw out and finding some red gum, would love to see the end result. I should probably do the same.
Last edited:
Blue LEDs are burning though my eyes and etching my soul.
Hello everyone, quick question on the blue LEDs under the tubes. If I had to do it again I would have put the LEDs on the bottom of the board (obviously I did not). I'm looking at desoldering the tube sockets and LEDs to get them under the board and I'm pretty sure I will trash the socket, the LED or the board trying to do so at this point so I'm looking for some other option to get the LEDs to not show through the tubes. Does anyone think painting on black fingernail polish would be a viable option for blacking these things out or would that generate too much heat even with an LED? Thanks for any input.
Hello everyone, quick question on the blue LEDs under the tubes. If I had to do it again I would have put the LEDs on the bottom of the board (obviously I did not). I'm looking at desoldering the tube sockets and LEDs to get them under the board and I'm pretty sure I will trash the socket, the LED or the board trying to do so at this point so I'm looking for some other option to get the LEDs to not show through the tubes. Does anyone think painting on black fingernail polish would be a viable option for blacking these things out or would that generate too much heat even with an LED? Thanks for any input.
I recently received the tube set for the Starving Student II Headphone Amplifier. All were received promptly and in good shape. I have switched out the original Ratheon tubes for the Sylvania, RCA, GE and Standard Brand tubes. All work flawlessly. Unfortunately, I can not hear any difference in sound quality among the lot. I am using Sennheiser HD565 headphones and an Apple iPod for input (FLAC files). Is this just because I'm an old guy with bad hearing or am I missing something?