OK, that's progress! I think I gave enough pointers for you to complete it. Especially see the post about the opamp pin voltages.
Also, try to follow from opamp output to base of pass transistor.
And remember: if you have a problem with something that has been build 100's of times with no issue, it's a safe bet that you made a mistake. ;-)
Assume that a moron (just assume!) build up the board and double check accordingly!
It might also pay to read the article linked at the diyaudio store.
Jan
Also, try to follow from opamp output to base of pass transistor.
And remember: if you have a problem with something that has been build 100's of times with no issue, it's a safe bet that you made a mistake. ;-)
Assume that a moron (just assume!) build up the board and double check accordingly!
It might also pay to read the article linked at the diyaudio store.
Jan
Last edited:
And measure. If you look at the circuit and read the article, and reason about the voltages expected, then measure, gives you a quick clue. It isn't that hard.
So much more rewarding than blindly substituting and hoping you catch it.
Jan
Oh, sorry if misunderstood, was the target voltage is intended to be 10V? Or have I misread something else?
Jan, I read though your notes at https://linearaudio.nl/sites/linearaudio.net/files/superreg%20V2.3.pdf and there's no mention of maintaining the regulator output at a minimum of 100mA by using a resistor to earth at the output to 'top up' the quiescent current of the load (if the load is less than 100mA), which I seem to be recall reading somewhere, maybe in the copy of Walts magazine articles, or earlier in this lengthy thread.
Would a further refinement (2.4?) of the schematic / layout, be to have space for such a resistor and two holes on the PCB? Or is better regulation achieved by locating the resistor at the load?
Last edited:
For 5 volts out, use Walt’s Gled 2.5 Volt voltage reference, but decrease the series resistor to get at least 8 ma ( R5 becomes 120 ohms on the positive regulator, R12 for the negative) through it for best noise performance and pot it in silicon to get the thermal drift to a minimum
Last edited:
Well done!
Debugging something you build yourself is actually one of the hardest things ever, because you are sure you did it right!
Especially if you don't have much experience with such things, you start to suspect and replace all kinds of parts, sometimes making it worse.
Just letting it sit for a day and then go over it in detail generally makes you find the issue, but who can do that once the project is finally finished
Jan
Debugging something you build yourself is actually one of the hardest things ever, because you are sure you did it right!
Especially if you don't have much experience with such things, you start to suspect and replace all kinds of parts, sometimes making it worse.
Just letting it sit for a day and then go over it in detail generally makes you find the issue, but who can do that once the project is finally finished
Jan
So that 8mA is an increase from the original 15 Volt circuit's 1.5mA through the Vref?
Hi,
I am preparing for building a Super regulator, and would lijke to ask some question:
Which opamps could be used reliably without oscillation? I know the general consensus is AD825 or AD817 but I like to use a lower noise opamp like AD8065.
Do all of those electrolytic capacitors need to be 120uF 25V strictly, since 100uF or 220uf is much more available?
Trung
I am preparing for building a Super regulator, and would lijke to ask some question:
Which opamps could be used reliably without oscillation? I know the general consensus is AD825 or AD817 but I like to use a lower noise opamp like AD8065.
Do all of those electrolytic capacitors need to be 120uF 25V strictly, since 100uF or 220uf is much more available?
Trung
Thanks for your answer. I don't have any oscilloscope at home yet, even though I know how to do it, that why I ask.