Chassis Discussion

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I purchased the Pesante 2U case from the diyaudiostore, with the intention of acid-etching the front panel (like I have done for small enclosures), but got cold feet when I received the enclosure and saw how big an area on the front panel I would have to work with.

There was a Mr Majestic thread that included the Front Panel express files for many of the other Hifi2000 store offerings, but it does not have this particular panel. I found the .dxf files on the Hifi2000 website, but the Front Panel importer is expecting just a faceplate and not the full enclosure (in fact, expects a front panel shape .dxf and a separate panel cutout .dxf file). I just get error messages. Is this available somewhere else and I am just missing it?

These would be great to have on the diyaudiostore at the time of ordering; one could work on the front panel while waiting for shipping from Italy.

My concern just doing these from my own measurements is making sure the beveled holes front panel holes line up perfectly and with the correct bevel, since this is required for the stability of the box, which will be rack mounted. I do not have graphics software for .dxf files to edit and make the conversion from the Hifi2000 files.

Thanks in advance,

Mark

Please find a DXF file attached. Both FPX and Hifi2000 work with DXF files. FPD can import this DXF, and also export your finished DXF.

Both companies provide excellent and unique services for the DIYer. I would note that Hifi2000's pricing is very competitive especially on thicker panels, so it's worth asking for a quote (the best way to do that is via contact@diyaudiostore.com). Additionally Hifi200 can can perform services like re-anodization after working the metal, and safely working on 10mm panels, that FPX presently does not. Best of luck with your build :)
 

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Please find a DXF file attached. Both FPX and Hifi2000 work with DXF files. FPD can import this DXF, and also export your finished DXF.

Both companies provide excellent and unique services for the DIYer. I would note that Hifi2000's pricing is very competitive especially on thicker panels, so it's worth asking for a quote (the best way to do that is via contact@diyaudiostore.com). Additionally Hifi200 can can perform services like re-anodization after working the metal, and safely working on 10mm panels, that FPX presently does not. Best of luck with your build :)

Thanks! I thought Hifi2000's pricing was great...I didn't know about the FPD export feature

Thank you very much!

--Mark
 
I have searched in here and other forums but could not find the answer. Is there a Deluxe 5U back panel configuration for monoblocks?

As long as we get a DXF file with the position and dimensions of the holes you would like us to drill in the rear panel that's totally doable :)

If you don't own a CAD program feel free to contact me at the email address in post #685 and I'll show you how you can generate your own file
 
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Two methods

One method that saves the faceplate until last:

Mount the shiny steel rods to the heatsinks
Mount the bottom and rear to the heatsinks

Install your amp boards, along with the PSU, transformers etc to the perforated steel plate to test You can slide the perforated steel panel in.

Mount faceplate and top. Remove the bottom and carefully mount the perforated plate with the PSU and heavy transformer. Reinstall the bottom

Second method

Mount the shiny steel bars to the heatsinks
Mount the front and rear plates
Mount the perforated steel plate

Install your amp boards, PSU, transformer to test

Mount top and bottom panels

Second method can be more convenient since you can flip it around as needed, but at risk of scratching the faceplate. The first method might be more useful if you want to test various power supplies. Both methods you will need to remove the top panel for final testing.

The diagram you posted are the instructions.
 
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It comforts me to completely cover the front panel with blue painter's tape and leave the tape in place until the amp is completely finished. This reassures me that I actually Did Something to reduce the chances of a scratch or gouge.

I overlap the strips of tape approx 2-4 millimeters.
 
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Now with all of that said, issues as I see it:
First off the back panel kit is amazing, but
1) speaker post need to be further apart...
2) power inlet needs to mount from the inside
3) rca inputs don’t line up correctly
Correct those three issue and there would be no complaints
 
Now with all of that said, issues as I see it:
First off the back panel kit is amazing, but
1) speaker post need to be further apart...
You're not the first that I've seen to make this kind of comment but I'll bet you that the spacing aligns with General Radio standard. So, you're the salmon swimming into the torrent of decades of convention.

Might be one for you to deal with by customisation. There's sense for the store to stick with convention, even if between us it's a bit daft. Still, no harm in letting people know.
 
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My Vandersteen II speakers' back panel follows the General Radio standard. There are four banana females on the back panel, spaced to fit a pair of Pomona dual banana plugs, to easily implement bi-wiring.
 

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Switches things on and off again
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Now with all of that said, issues as I see it:
First off the back panel kit is amazing, but
1) speaker post need to be further apart...
2) power inlet needs to mount from the inside
3) rca inputs don’t line up correctly
Correct those three issue and there would be no complaints

1) The spacing is banana plug compatible. It was a decision that needed to be made, was heavily debated, and in the end, we went with that. This standard is not used in the EU I imagine primarily because it's exactly the same spacing as used in an EU power plug. Yep...

In the future, we might do another back panel with spacing appropriate for mega-cables and mega-connectors. One thing of many on the todo list... In the meantime you can always make your own custom rear panel, using the customization services.

2) Why is this an issue? Never heard any mention of this previously. Curious!

3) Please comment - never heard that one before. We have had several people who didn't realize they needed to "flip the back panel" 180' to make the Neutrik connectors fit. I guess you would call it a feature, not a bug.
 
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1) The spacing is banana plug compatible. It was a decision that needed to be made, was heavily debated, and in the end, we went with that. This standard is not used in the EU I imagine primarily because it's exactly the same spacing as used in an EU power plug. Yep...

In the future, we might do another back panel with spacing appropriate for mega-cables and mega-connectors. One thing of many on the todo list... In the meantime you can always make your own custom rear panel, using the customization services.

2) Why is this an issue? Never heard any mention of this previously. Curious!

3) Please comment - never heard that one before. We have had several people who didn't realize they needed to "flip the back panel" 180' to make the Neutrik connectors fit. I guess you would call it a feature, not a bug.

Hello,
1) Perhaps smaller binding posts are warranted as the provided post could make it hard for some to properly tighten spade terminated cables.

2) Only for convenient to disassemble, I can currently remove the Neutrik connectors if mounted on the inside, pull off the fast-ons on the speaker terminals, but the power inlet...is a little knuckle aggrivating with the fast-ons connectors. If the inlet could mount from the inside, you could solder vs using fast-ons and then heat shrink the live line. Then that would just be two more screws to remove. A slightly larger inlet opening would allow to mount on either side with no impact to function.

3) Good to know, I didn't confirm it but, it does seem like I picked the wrong side.

I have sent the front panels to FCP to mod and have had HiFi-2000 do some mods as well.

Jim