Jason & Co.:
Would it be possible to provide a detailed drawing of the holes and cavities in the rear face of each of the HiFi2000 front panels? I just purchased a 2U Dissipante chassis and was surprised by the number of holes (some threaded, some not) and other cavities drilled in the rear of their standard front panel.
This is meaningful to me because I use Front Panel Express and often include holes for LEDs and mounting things to the interior face of the front panel, and HiFi2000's pre-existing holes and cavities may overlap or block elements in my designs.
Regards,
Scott
Would it be possible to provide a detailed drawing of the holes and cavities in the rear face of each of the HiFi2000 front panels? I just purchased a 2U Dissipante chassis and was surprised by the number of holes (some threaded, some not) and other cavities drilled in the rear of their standard front panel.
This is meaningful to me because I use Front Panel Express and often include holes for LEDs and mounting things to the interior face of the front panel, and HiFi2000's pre-existing holes and cavities may overlap or block elements in my designs.
Regards,
Scott
Viz:
Interesting, and thank you. However, the link shows a pattern that is inaccurate; I have purchased 5U, 4U and 2U enclosures from the Store (or directly from HiFi2000) and their 10mm thick front panels all had two vertically-oriented rectangular cavities which are not evident on the HiFi2000 diagram. I don't recall the size of that cavity on the 4U and 5U enclosures, but on the 2U chassis it measures about 0.5" wide and 1.5" tall, which is significant to me. There may be other differences; I cannot check because my front panel is currently being processed by FPE.
That said, thanks for the link -- any guidance is helpful.
Regards,
Scott
Interesting, and thank you. However, the link shows a pattern that is inaccurate; I have purchased 5U, 4U and 2U enclosures from the Store (or directly from HiFi2000) and their 10mm thick front panels all had two vertically-oriented rectangular cavities which are not evident on the HiFi2000 diagram. I don't recall the size of that cavity on the 4U and 5U enclosures, but on the 2U chassis it measures about 0.5" wide and 1.5" tall, which is significant to me. There may be other differences; I cannot check because my front panel is currently being processed by FPE.
That said, thanks for the link -- any guidance is helpful.
Regards,
Scott
I've just used QCAD (Free version) to view the various CAD files that are available. However, because DWG is a closed format and the QCAD free has limited capability regarding this point, I had to use a converter before QCAD could read those files as DXF. The freeware that I used for this purpose was ODA File Converter and it appears to have done a reasonable job.
Standard disclaimers apply, YMMV and all, but at least that should provide some kind of start. Bound to be other (possibly easier ways) to skin the cat.
Jason
I'm interested in a 4U Dissipante with 400mm depth. I see the option in the store, but when I try to choose the UMS heatsink option I only have choices of 4U 300mm and 5U 400mm. The other options for the top/bottom and front/back panels make sense, it's just the heatsink that's a little confusing. I'm really trying to build a deluxe 4U with 400mm depth a la carte. Is this even possible?
I'm interested in a 4U Dissipante with 400mm depth. I see the option in the store, but when I try to choose the UMS heatsink option I only have choices of 4U 300mm and 5U 400mm. The other options for the top/bottom and front/back panels make sense, it's just the heatsink that's a little confusing. I'm really trying to build a deluxe 4U with 400mm depth a la carte. Is this even possible?
The only Deluxe heatsinks currently are 4Ux300 and 5Ux400. We'll have 2Ux200 and 2Ux300 in the future, and probably a 3Ux300. You can DIY of course, or have Hifi2000 drill the holes, which costs USD50 per heatsink (each 400mm heatsink is comprised of 2 x 200mm heatsinks). We have to be sensible with the choice of ready-made heatsinks, as Hifi2000 kindly stores them for us in their warehouse, which uses up space, and heatsinks are big and expensive, so we only stock what we feel are the most commonly desired and useful formats.
FYI: The oblong cavities are used by the anodizer to hold the panel in the anodizing fluid, and are found on all front panels.
Have any of the recent posters confirmed that the currently available CAD files for the 10mm front panel are accurate?
I'd like to customize a new 10mm front panel for my 3U Pesante, but I've never customized any metal work for previous projects. Since it will be a first time experience, I'd like to at least have confidence that I'm starting in the right place.
Thanks!
I'd like to customize a new 10mm front panel for my 3U Pesante, but I've never customized any metal work for previous projects. Since it will be a first time experience, I'd like to at least have confidence that I'm starting in the right place.
Thanks!
Chassis Threading for Fixing the Top & Base Plate
Based on my experience with the ACA v1.6 ModuShop Chassis, for my next build (intending to use a Deluxe 5U) I'd prefer to fix the top plate using hex socket head or button head machine threaded fasteners. Same goes for the base plate.
Using self tapping screws as per the standard offering doesn't appeal.
I see over at the HiFi2000 website that a machine threading customatisation is offered:
http://www.hifi2000.it/default.asp?id=94&mnu=94
where inserts can be pressed into the metal work that should enable the sort of plan I have in mind.
How do I go about getting this spec'd in when ordering a chassis?
Also, I'm keen on opting for front panel milled aluminium handles and adding a front power switch (that requires a 22.2 mm diameter hole). Rather than mess about with a hand drill and attack the pilot holes myself, it makes sense to get these holes precision drilled at the work shop. What's the process for adding this to the order? Any notable points I should consider? I'm expecting that because the plan is to work from the existing pilot holes that engineering detail in the form of drawings is not required.
To add to this last point, I've decided to keep customisation to a minimum (partly because the CAD drawings of the Deluxe chassis is lacking in detail or is marked "preliminary") but I also want to keep the enclosure in great shape to maintain an excellent outward appearance.
How does what I'm suggesting fit within the pricing structure?
Thanks for the help.
Based on my experience with the ACA v1.6 ModuShop Chassis, for my next build (intending to use a Deluxe 5U) I'd prefer to fix the top plate using hex socket head or button head machine threaded fasteners. Same goes for the base plate.
Using self tapping screws as per the standard offering doesn't appeal.
I see over at the HiFi2000 website that a machine threading customatisation is offered:
http://www.hifi2000.it/default.asp?id=94&mnu=94
where inserts can be pressed into the metal work that should enable the sort of plan I have in mind.
How do I go about getting this spec'd in when ordering a chassis?
Also, I'm keen on opting for front panel milled aluminium handles and adding a front power switch (that requires a 22.2 mm diameter hole). Rather than mess about with a hand drill and attack the pilot holes myself, it makes sense to get these holes precision drilled at the work shop. What's the process for adding this to the order? Any notable points I should consider? I'm expecting that because the plan is to work from the existing pilot holes that engineering detail in the form of drawings is not required.
To add to this last point, I've decided to keep customisation to a minimum (partly because the CAD drawings of the Deluxe chassis is lacking in detail or is marked "preliminary") but I also want to keep the enclosure in great shape to maintain an excellent outward appearance.
How does what I'm suggesting fit within the pricing structure?
Thanks for the help.
Please email contact@diyaudiostore.com with your order number and the helpdesk will chase this up for you. I can't see any 2018 orders from you with a quick search, so please seek support privately via the helpdesk email address on this one. Thanks!
Thank you very much for this bug report, this is indeed a bug - substitutions should have no weight but it looks like a whole bunch of substitutions ended up with the weight associated with the item they were substituting. I have refunded the shipping difference to your order and will fix this issue for the future.
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Well I tried several different scenarios and the shipping would change with each option. Just by adding the substitution the shipping went from $7 to $17. Before that shipping for the Whammy board and Keratherm was only $7 ($17 seems a bit excessive for USPS shipping). Probably should have run the orders separately so not to confuse the shipping calculator.