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Old 22nd November 2019, 03:48 PM   #691
skunark is offline skunark  United States
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Chassis Discussion
Default Two methods

One method that saves the faceplate until last:

Mount the shiny steel rods to the heatsinks
Mount the bottom and rear to the heatsinks

Install your amp boards, along with the PSU, transformers etc to the perforated steel plate to test You can slide the perforated steel panel in.

Mount faceplate and top. Remove the bottom and carefully mount the perforated plate with the PSU and heavy transformer. Reinstall the bottom

Second method

Mount the shiny steel bars to the heatsinks
Mount the front and rear plates
Mount the perforated steel plate

Install your amp boards, PSU, transformer to test

Mount top and bottom panels

Second method can be more convenient since you can flip it around as needed, but at risk of scratching the faceplate. The first method might be more useful if you want to test various power supplies. Both methods you will need to remove the top panel for final testing.

The diagram you posted are the instructions.
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Old 22nd November 2019, 04:01 PM   #692
Mark Johnson is offline Mark Johnson  United States
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It comforts me to completely cover the front panel with blue painter's tape and leave the tape in place until the amp is completely finished. This reassures me that I actually Did Something to reduce the chances of a scratch or gouge.

I overlap the strips of tape approx 2-4 millimeters.
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Old 22nd November 2019, 08:35 PM   #693
astromo is online now astromo  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Johnson View Post
It comforts me to completely cover the front panel with blue painter's tape and leave the tape in place until the amp is completely finished. This reassures me that I actually Did Something to reduce the chances of a scratch or gouge.

I overlap the strips of tape approx 2-4 millimeters.
Smart move.

I'll do this next time.
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Old 22nd November 2019, 10:49 PM   #694
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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...I have a couple of projects where that would have saved some gouges from happening.
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Old 23rd November 2019, 04:34 AM   #695
skunark is offline skunark  United States
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Now with all of that said, issues as I see it:
First off the back panel kit is amazing, but
1) speaker post need to be further apart...
2) power inlet needs to mount from the inside
3) rca inputs don’t line up correctly
Correct those three issue and there would be no complaints
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Old 23rd November 2019, 11:40 AM   #696
astromo is online now astromo  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunark View Post
Now with all of that said, issues as I see it:
First off the back panel kit is amazing, but
1) speaker post need to be further apart...
You're not the first that I've seen to make this kind of comment but I'll bet you that the spacing aligns with General Radio standard. So, you're the salmon swimming into the torrent of decades of convention.

Might be one for you to deal with by customisation. There's sense for the store to stick with convention, even if between us it's a bit daft. Still, no harm in letting people know.
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Old 23rd November 2019, 12:37 PM   #697
Dennis Hui is offline Dennis Hui  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunark View Post
3) rca inputs donít line up correctly
Can you post a photo? I didn't notice any issue with a 4U chassis
from a few years ago with both Neutriks RCA and XLR.
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Old 23rd November 2019, 02:54 PM   #698
Mark Johnson is offline Mark Johnson  United States
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My Vandersteen II speakers' back panel follows the General Radio standard. There are four banana females on the back panel, spaced to fit a pair of Pomona dual banana plugs, to easily implement bi-wiring.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg photo.jpg (32.4 KB, 99 views)
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Old 24th November 2019, 10:44 PM   #699
Jason is offline Jason  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunark View Post
Now with all of that said, issues as I see it:
First off the back panel kit is amazing, but
1) speaker post need to be further apart...
2) power inlet needs to mount from the inside
3) rca inputs don’t line up correctly
Correct those three issue and there would be no complaints
1) The spacing is banana plug compatible. It was a decision that needed to be made, was heavily debated, and in the end, we went with that. This standard is not used in the EU I imagine primarily because it's exactly the same spacing as used in an EU power plug. Yep...

In the future, we might do another back panel with spacing appropriate for mega-cables and mega-connectors. One thing of many on the todo list... In the meantime you can always make your own custom rear panel, using the customization services.

2) Why is this an issue? Never heard any mention of this previously. Curious!

3) Please comment - never heard that one before. We have had several people who didn't realize they needed to "flip the back panel" 180' to make the Neutrik connectors fit. I guess you would call it a feature, not a bug.
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Old 29th November 2019, 02:39 AM   #700
skunark is offline skunark  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason View Post
1) The spacing is banana plug compatible. It was a decision that needed to be made, was heavily debated, and in the end, we went with that. This standard is not used in the EU I imagine primarily because it's exactly the same spacing as used in an EU power plug. Yep...

In the future, we might do another back panel with spacing appropriate for mega-cables and mega-connectors. One thing of many on the todo list... In the meantime you can always make your own custom rear panel, using the customization services.

2) Why is this an issue? Never heard any mention of this previously. Curious!

3) Please comment - never heard that one before. We have had several people who didn't realize they needed to "flip the back panel" 180' to make the Neutrik connectors fit. I guess you would call it a feature, not a bug.
Hello,
1) Perhaps smaller binding posts are warranted as the provided post could make it hard for some to properly tighten spade terminated cables.

2) Only for convenient to disassemble, I can currently remove the Neutrik connectors if mounted on the inside, pull off the fast-ons on the speaker terminals, but the power inlet...is a little knuckle aggrivating with the fast-ons connectors. If the inlet could mount from the inside, you could solder vs using fast-ons and then heat shrink the live line. Then that would just be two more screws to remove. A slightly larger inlet opening would allow to mount on either side with no impact to function.

3) Good to know, I didn't confirm it but, it does seem like I picked the wrong side.

I have sent the front panels to FCP to mod and have had HiFi-2000 do some mods as well.

Jim
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