Hey guys
I use this material at work. It's called Raco. It's clear anodized aluminum. I also have a flat piece that it snaps onto. I plan to use it as a face plate for my APOX passive preamp. It's 4 3/8" tall and 1 1/2" deep (as oriented in photo) and 1/16" thick. The plan is to mount parts and the rest of the chasis to the flat piece that I mentioned and add a solid slab of exotic hardwood to the sides like late 70's japanesse equipment. (I always liked the look of my first nice piece of stereo, Kenwood KRC-750 motor tuned reciever). The stuf is reasonably affordable at $30.00 / 9' peice. If there's enough interest, I could cut to size and ship. The finish is quite nice satin silver.
I'll draw up the other piece and use later
I use this material at work. It's called Raco. It's clear anodized aluminum. I also have a flat piece that it snaps onto. I plan to use it as a face plate for my APOX passive preamp. It's 4 3/8" tall and 1 1/2" deep (as oriented in photo) and 1/16" thick. The plan is to mount parts and the rest of the chasis to the flat piece that I mentioned and add a solid slab of exotic hardwood to the sides like late 70's japanesse equipment. (I always liked the look of my first nice piece of stereo, Kenwood KRC-750 motor tuned reciever). The stuf is reasonably affordable at $30.00 / 9' peice. If there's enough interest, I could cut to size and ship. The finish is quite nice satin silver.
I'll draw up the other piece and use later
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The finish is usually flawless. I'll select and cull imperfections. The material is cheaper than the shipping, so there's no need to the to pass trash on.
The finish is a smooth non grained satin clear anodize. It's not very thick, but is mildly scratch resistant and uniform.
And it is also avalible 5 7/16 wide.+-
Have a look in a newish office building. This is the material used to make door jambs and top track for walls with the 1 1/2" x 1/4" metal trim.
The finish is a smooth non grained satin clear anodize. It's not very thick, but is mildly scratch resistant and uniform.
And it is also avalible 5 7/16 wide.+-
Have a look in a newish office building. This is the material used to make door jambs and top track for walls with the 1 1/2" x 1/4" metal trim.
sounds good. If you decide to go forward, I'd probably be in for at least half a piece (maybe the wider one too).
I'm assuming that this stuff can be easily cut with a miter saw with a non-ferrous blade? Also, does the backing snap into place pretty firmly or would you put on additional fasteners?
I'm assuming that this stuff can be easily cut with a miter saw with a non-ferrous blade? Also, does the backing snap into place pretty firmly or would you put on additional fasteners?
I've been a busy boy doing what a lot of you guys should have been doing. Building instead of whining about politics and self serving moderators.
I'm hijacking my old thread about the face plate material to show the rest of the APOX case. Have a look.
This is the back of the case. The side plates are going to have some exotic hardwood (hopefully clearcut from some god forsaken (if there is one) jungle that harbours some rare insects)screwed and siliconed to them from the inside. They will be as long as the top and bottom.
I'm hijacking my old thread about the face plate material to show the rest of the APOX case. Have a look.
This is the back of the case. The side plates are going to have some exotic hardwood (hopefully clearcut from some god forsaken (if there is one) jungle that harbours some rare insects)screwed and siliconed to them from the inside. They will be as long as the top and bottom.
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Here's the top view with face plate sitting where it'll go. Notice the counter set hex screws. All of the plate is 1/4" aluminum. I bought a sheet that was 40" x 72" for $35.00 from a local scrapyard. Cool aye.
I cut the material with a skill saw at work a few weeks ago in about 1 hour. I diid all of the tapping and drilling in about 2.5 hours this evening.
I cut the material with a skill saw at work a few weeks ago in about 1 hour. I diid all of the tapping and drilling in about 2.5 hours this evening.
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Here's a side view. I thought it would be nice to be able to screw straight into the ends of the plate an avoid l brackets all over the place. So I gave it a shot. #6 screws heads are just under .217" so I drilled 7/32" holes for the counterset, Then drilled (i forgot the size) the through hole in the center of the counterset hole. The trick is drilling the 7/64" hole into the end of the 1/4" material. I clamped the materialto my bench and used the top of the bench as a guide and did it freehand.
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I have a piece (drawing pictured above) that the face will snap over. The wood side pieces will close the hole in the face stuff and give a nice finished produce like my old Kenwood seen in these pics.
Heres what I'm using for knobs. At thew same scrapyard, I got a 6' piece of 2 1/8" aluminum bar stock for something like $20.00. I't has made some nice feet for My Alephs. Here's what a drill press and a belt sander can do in the right hands.
Heres what I'm using for knobs. At thew same scrapyard, I got a 6' piece of 2 1/8" aluminum bar stock for something like $20.00. I't has made some nice feet for My Alephs. Here's what a drill press and a belt sander can do in the right hands.
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My current plan is to run the APOX as a passive attenuator/selector. I think my CD player can drive my amps loud enough without gain. Keep it simple. I'll leave room inside for a line stage if I decide to try one and maybe active crossovers. Currently, I run my mids and tweeters with full range, and my crappy Denon has a subwoofer crossover built in for my Titanics in the side of my towers.
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