hi, after recently making my new speakers with the Omnes Audio L8 full ranger in OB, i have been using my tannoy ts8 sub for the moment, but it cant really keep up, so a new one will be needed.
my main goals are that it cant be too big( max around 30L) relatively easy to make (open baffle would be good), dont need to rock the house, would rather have an accurate and punchy 40Hz than a boomy 25Hz (so quality over quantity) lol!
sort of like the orion bass (http://www.linkwitzlab.com/orion_challenge.htm)
budget around £300-400 inc drivers, amps etc.
any sudgestions?
my main goals are that it cant be too big( max around 30L) relatively easy to make (open baffle would be good), dont need to rock the house, would rather have an accurate and punchy 40Hz than a boomy 25Hz (so quality over quantity) lol!
sort of like the orion bass (http://www.linkwitzlab.com/orion_challenge.htm)
budget around £300-400 inc drivers, amps etc.
any sudgestions?
15 inch SLS Peerless...
http://www.bmm-electronics.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=4296
Just about custom designed for your application and inexpensive. Regards Moray James.
http://www.bmm-electronics.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=4296
Just about custom designed for your application and inexpensive. Regards Moray James.
isnt that the 12" version?
that looks good, and cheap to!
whats the best way to power them? (say one each side on the existing baffle) was thinking of using a cheap but powerfull power amp like the Behringer A500 (http://www.dv247.com/invt/25947 £120) and an active crossover rather than two cheapish sub plate amps.
that looks good, and cheap to!
whats the best way to power them? (say one each side on the existing baffle) was thinking of using a cheap but powerfull power amp like the Behringer A500 (http://www.dv247.com/invt/25947 £120) and an active crossover rather than two cheapish sub plate amps.
Perhaps what you actually need is a WOOFER.. not a subwoofer.
Consider using your sub somewhere below 40 Hz and perhaps the "Augie" dipole bass driver (or 2 of them), bottom of the page:
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/drivers.htm
Of course you can also use a cheap plate amp for this as well.. Consider the MCM (you'll not find better for less):
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&product_id=50-6272
(..the continuosly adjustable phase is particularly noteworthy at this price.)
For an actual subwoofer consider tha servo Rythmic sub:
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/servo_product.htm
Consider using your sub somewhere below 40 Hz and perhaps the "Augie" dipole bass driver (or 2 of them), bottom of the page:
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/drivers.htm
Of course you can also use a cheap plate amp for this as well.. Consider the MCM (you'll not find better for less):
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&product_id=50-6272
(..the continuosly adjustable phase is particularly noteworthy at this price.)
For an actual subwoofer consider tha servo Rythmic sub:
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/servo_product.htm
Lots of options...
the XLS10 and matching passive radiator will take top place for performance Vs size but if you can stand a bit more volume you can buy two SLS12's for a lot less money and move more air. You would probably have almost enough left over to buy your plate amp to run them (100 watts ought to do). Good value all things considered.
the XLS10 and matching passive radiator will take top place for performance Vs size but if you can stand a bit more volume you can buy two SLS12's for a lot less money and move more air. You would probably have almost enough left over to buy your plate amp to run them (100 watts ought to do). Good value all things considered.
Dual SLS12...
have a look at the dipole sub at the Linlwitz site. This is about as small as you will find for a sub. Sorry can't do volume in liters, just not in my head. Cabinet would be about 14 inches high and deep by about 17 inches wide give or take (outside dimensions). Very compact for a sub.
have a look at the dipole sub at the Linlwitz site. This is about as small as you will find for a sub. Sorry can't do volume in liters, just not in my head. Cabinet would be about 14 inches high and deep by about 17 inches wide give or take (outside dimensions). Very compact for a sub.
well...
an 8 inch driver in an 11 inch cube nice size agreed. A 10 inch XLS with a passive in 12 inch cube thats compact too. Two 12 inch units in a 14x14x17 inch box not much larger than your single 8 inch driver in a 12 inch cube. You would be pushing a whole lot more air with only a marginally larger foot print. So what is your point? If you want small and want to push more air run two SLS10's or two SLS8's either would be almost as small or smaller than your single eight Tannoy and both would outperform the Tannoy. Your choice, I was under the impression that you wanted more output in as small a cabinet as possible. Seems you have options that fit that bill nicely all of the sugeated drivers will get you substantial output to below 30 Hz.. Regards Moray James.
an 8 inch driver in an 11 inch cube nice size agreed. A 10 inch XLS with a passive in 12 inch cube thats compact too. Two 12 inch units in a 14x14x17 inch box not much larger than your single 8 inch driver in a 12 inch cube. You would be pushing a whole lot more air with only a marginally larger foot print. So what is your point? If you want small and want to push more air run two SLS10's or two SLS8's either would be almost as small or smaller than your single eight Tannoy and both would outperform the Tannoy. Your choice, I was under the impression that you wanted more output in as small a cabinet as possible. Seems you have options that fit that bill nicely all of the sugeated drivers will get you substantial output to below 30 Hz.. Regards Moray James.
re :sub
you might look at a compound sub, two drivers face to face, very tight and half the needed cabnet volume compared to one driver.
The mcm plate amp is a good idea. you should get deep and tight, you do not have to pick one or the other. Very f,ing important, use no less than 1" mdf wood with tons of braces,
look at B & W or Theil and listen then go and listen to a thin box
and you will hear why. best of luck.
you might look at a compound sub, two drivers face to face, very tight and half the needed cabnet volume compared to one driver.
The mcm plate amp is a good idea. you should get deep and tight, you do not have to pick one or the other. Very f,ing important, use no less than 1" mdf wood with tons of braces,
look at B & W or Theil and listen then go and listen to a thin box
and you will hear why. best of luck.
Good idea for hi Vas drivers...
the Vas of the Peerless drivers is not an issue with the "W" frame dipole cabinet. These cabinets would be smaller in overall size than you could achieve with conventional box loading even if you used isobarik and the nice part is that both driver outputs are used. With a "W' frame dipole the cabinet volume is so small you would need to build in volume to mount a plate amp or simply house it in a secondary cabinet away from the magnet assembly.
Isobarik is a rather expensive way to shrink a box volume as the second driver is sacrificed to do the shrinking but you don't get any output from it, as far as I can see it is soley for the purpose of modifying the (combined) driver parameters. A different driver would be a less expensive option. If you already owned hi Vas drivers and wanted to use them in as small a box volume as possible then it would be an option. Regards Moray James.
the Vas of the Peerless drivers is not an issue with the "W" frame dipole cabinet. These cabinets would be smaller in overall size than you could achieve with conventional box loading even if you used isobarik and the nice part is that both driver outputs are used. With a "W' frame dipole the cabinet volume is so small you would need to build in volume to mount a plate amp or simply house it in a secondary cabinet away from the magnet assembly.
Isobarik is a rather expensive way to shrink a box volume as the second driver is sacrificed to do the shrinking but you don't get any output from it, as far as I can see it is soley for the purpose of modifying the (combined) driver parameters. A different driver would be a less expensive option. If you already owned hi Vas drivers and wanted to use them in as small a box volume as possible then it would be an option. Regards Moray James.
think i might look into this- the BK XLS200 MK2.
uses a XLS10 in a 18L box, costs £300ish delivered, which if i diy'ed it, £90 for the XLS 10, £150 for the amp, that only saves me £60, when i factor in the wood, cables etc, i think i am better off just getting it already made!
what do u think?
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/XLS200.htm
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
uses a XLS10 in a 18L box, costs £300ish delivered, which if i diy'ed it, £90 for the XLS 10, £150 for the amp, that only saves me £60, when i factor in the wood, cables etc, i think i am better off just getting it already made!
what do u think?
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/XLS200.htm
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