Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

100 liters sealed.  What sub driver goes the lowest??
100 liters sealed.  What sub driver goes the lowest??
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 19th July 2005, 12:39 AM   #1
jjkozlow is offline jjkozlow  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Michigan
Default 100 liters sealed. What sub driver goes the lowest??

Been modeling stuff, but want to know if there is a sleeper out there under $120 US that I am missing. I'm using 150 watt plate amp with a 5dB boost at 30Hz. Crossing at 100Hz. I haven't been modeling with the bass boost, cause I'm a newbie and I'm not sure if I have that side of the spreadsheet set correctly.

Looked at the:

15" Dayton Quatro--get a 20.7 f10

12" Titanic 1200 on closeout $89.99--read about it "bottoming out easy" though--get a 19.2 f10

10" Vifa MA26 Aluminum cone--get a 17.6 f10, has an ugly 83dB sensitivity though. Will 150 watts even turn it on?

Anything else that works good in a sealed enclosure at 100 liters?

Thanks!
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th July 2005, 04:37 AM   #2
BassAwdyO is offline BassAwdyO  United States
diyAudio Member
 
BassAwdyO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Illinois
Send a message via AIM to BassAwdyO
Hmmmm.....

What is your application and goals exactly? Asside 100l sealed with a 150watt amp?

I have recently built the autotuba from Billfitzmaurice, and although it doesnt pump out the extremely low notes(below40hz) it still has high efficiency and with a little more than 100watts RMS power handling and being ~100l(total enclosure volume) and only ~$60 including driver, wood,(most of the cost depends on the wood used) and plans might be perfect for such an application. It will still make the house rattle at 30hz, but is definately not flat down to it. But then again, neither will be almost any sealed system out there. The horn loading definately gives you everything and more you will need for music.
__________________
The golden rule of DIY:
Build nice, or build twice!
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th July 2005, 05:13 AM   #3
Raoul is offline Raoul  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: OR
I haven't built a Tuba yet (I have cut the pieces for the Tuba 18), but after you apply the bass boast on the AutoTuba the response might be pretty decent...hard to make an accurate prediction as Bill's response curve was made in a car and relies on a lot of pressure vessel gain.

You can find it here:

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/plans...9aca034710eb8f

The price is definitely right, though.

You will need a tablesaw and/ or a router, most likely.


EDIT: Looks like he added a 10" version as well. You could email him and see if it goes much lower than the 8" version. Bill is a friendly guy and has always answers my emails quickly.
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th July 2005, 02:37 PM   #4
jjkozlow is offline jjkozlow  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Michigan
Good questions, didn't mention this is for music only audio system. I am tied to 100L as that would be the perfect size sub to act as "stands" for my satellites. There will be a stereo pair of subs crossed at 100Hz (or lower).

So, I'm kinda going "backwards" with this one. I have the cabinet designed, and already have the 150W plate amp and now need driver(s) to "add some quality bass for music". That's about the only goal! Hence, the sealed decision. That's about the only goal! I would like a low f10 for my pipe organ stuff.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th July 2005, 05:10 AM   #5
BassAwdyO is offline BassAwdyO  United States
diyAudio Member
 
BassAwdyO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Illinois
Send a message via AIM to BassAwdyO
Well for music only, and a pair.... I would definately go with two Autotubas myself. For the price and performance, they cant be beat!
__________________
The golden rule of DIY:
Build nice, or build twice!
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st July 2005, 07:14 AM   #6
simon5 is offline simon5  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Québec, Québec
You better get the Titanic if you can, you'll need some excursion to be able to handle 5 dB boost at 30 Hz. Quatro would be my 2nd choice.

I don't think there's any left, but you could try Ascendant Audio if there's any Atlas subwoofers left.
__________________
DIYaudio for President !
  Reply With Quote

Reply


100 liters sealed.  What sub driver goes the lowest??Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Driver for sealed box rho Multi-Way 13 13th November 2007 05:57 AM
The lowest frequency driver? blake_mooney Subwoofers 32 12th May 2006 03:50 PM
Which driver for a small sealed box. ShockValue Subwoofers 21 16th June 2005 04:25 PM
Sealed Enclosure Driver Madmike2 Subwoofers 2 19th May 2005 12:53 AM
TC2+ in 60 liters sealed box ZACC Subwoofers 7 1st April 2005 05:00 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:58 PM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 15.79%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2019 diyAudio
Wiki