hi, i have built a 2 enclosures b4, one for the car and one for home. i have just purchased a PIONEER TS-W384C (15") sub and want to build an enclosure for it but am unsure what type would suit the home environment.
the manual recomends anything from sealed to band pass, is the horn enclosure any good??? would it be worth building one of them.
Thanks
the manual recomends anything from sealed to band pass, is the horn enclosure any good??? would it be worth building one of them.
Thanks
looks like ported would be best but would be worth trying in a horn. If thats the same model as the pioneer 305C(12") and 255C(10") I would back that up for sure as I have experience with those.
I've never heard a horn so cannot recommend them. In house you want a low tuning like 28Hz-19Hz depending on the room.
subwoofer
Qts<0.3 hornloading
0.3<Qts<0.4 basreflex
0.4<Qts<0.55 closed box
Qts>0.55 infinite baffle/dipole
I've never heard a horn so cannot recommend them. In house you want a low tuning like 28Hz-19Hz depending on the room.
subwoofer
Qts<0.3 hornloading
0.3<Qts<0.4 basreflex
0.4<Qts<0.55 closed box
Qts>0.55 infinite baffle/dipole
Greets!
Sure! How much room can you afford to allocate to it, how low/high does it need to go? Horns can get really big really quick below ~200Hz, especially with a large driver, which means a large throat, ergo a larger mouth than if a smaller driver is used.
A-J horn, Hornresp, and MJK's Mathcad WS (if it's still available) are the only ones I'm aware of. Not familiar at all with A-J, Hornresp has an optimizer IIRC, MJK's (quarterwavelength.com) requires that you either know what you want and just want to sim it or have the time to spend endless hours trying different combination of dims. It's limited to only three flare different flare factors so very limited WRT designing sub/LF BW horns that require slower expansions for best performance.
Really, unless you have a bunch of room and/or above average woodworking skills to make an intricately folded one, this driver will limit you to a fairly strong midbass horn with a much rolled off 30-55Hz Fc depending on the design. Here's one for the Adire Tempest that should work:
http://web.archive.org/web/20041010...io.com/TextPages/TempestHornPageFrameText.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20050603192754/http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/TempestBassHornPlans.pdf
If a lower gain back loaded horn/~35Hz Fc is acceptable, then the Jensen Imperial should work well: http://www.decware.com/imperial.htm
GM
Sure! How much room can you afford to allocate to it, how low/high does it need to go? Horns can get really big really quick below ~200Hz, especially with a large driver, which means a large throat, ergo a larger mouth than if a smaller driver is used.
A-J horn, Hornresp, and MJK's Mathcad WS (if it's still available) are the only ones I'm aware of. Not familiar at all with A-J, Hornresp has an optimizer IIRC, MJK's (quarterwavelength.com) requires that you either know what you want and just want to sim it or have the time to spend endless hours trying different combination of dims. It's limited to only three flare different flare factors so very limited WRT designing sub/LF BW horns that require slower expansions for best performance.
Really, unless you have a bunch of room and/or above average woodworking skills to make an intricately folded one, this driver will limit you to a fairly strong midbass horn with a much rolled off 30-55Hz Fc depending on the design. Here's one for the Adire Tempest that should work:
http://web.archive.org/web/20041010...io.com/TextPages/TempestHornPageFrameText.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20050603192754/http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/TempestBassHornPlans.pdf
If a lower gain back loaded horn/~35Hz Fc is acceptable, then the Jensen Imperial should work well: http://www.decware.com/imperial.htm
GM
For a conventional sub, I suggest WinISD PRO .... note not the regular version!
You could make a compact sealed sub and get moderate output
or you could make a bigger box and go vented and get about 6db more output ~ 60% more
You would want to model it first since this being a car sub, it's designed for a very different environment where a small space boosts the low end.
You could make a compact sealed sub and get moderate output
or you could make a bigger box and go vented and get about 6db more output ~ 60% more
You would want to model it first since this being a car sub, it's designed for a very different environment where a small space boosts the low end.
thanks for all your help.
the horn is looking to be a bit big for the room its in.
what are your idea's on a 6th order bandpass enclosure.
I've had a look on winisd but it looks as if im limited to between 30Hz and 85hz ,
i was looking more for 30Hz to 110Hz,
maybe i should just stick to a vented box???
the horn is looking to be a bit big for the room its in.
what are your idea's on a 6th order bandpass enclosure.
I've had a look on winisd but it looks as if im limited to between 30Hz and 85hz ,
i was looking more for 30Hz to 110Hz,
maybe i should just stick to a vented box???
As a VERY general rule, the better the sub the higher you can cross it. Hence if the driver isn't so good, you want to cross it lower. I found this to be true with a cheapie sub I built for my parents - it was fine below say 50 Hz but up above that point it started to sound ... well cheap.
So 85 Hz isn't bad actually
however, a bandpass isn't exactly the last word on fidelity, a 6th order and above bandpass will give you more output at the cost of accuracy, most here would say it's not worth it for music unless you aint fussy!
A vented box is probably a good way to go ...
So 85 Hz isn't bad actually
however, a bandpass isn't exactly the last word on fidelity, a 6th order and above bandpass will give you more output at the cost of accuracy, most here would say it's not worth it for music unless you aint fussy!
A vented box is probably a good way to go ...
felzi said:hi, i have built a 2 enclosures b4, one for the car and one for home. i have just purchased a PIONEER TS-W384C (15") sub and want to build an enclosure for it but am unsure what type would suit the home environment.
the manual recomends anything from sealed to band pass, is the horn enclosure any good??? would it be worth building one of them.
Thanks
Before you go building a ported box for that sub, may I ask a couple of important questions first?
1. Will this sub be used for music SQ or HT boom?
2. How big is the room it will be used in?
3. Since you were already going to build a ported box for it, what size and tuning were you planning on going with may I ask?
Noidster
paulspencer said:
Its a starting point that you would have to measure after. Results from my testing of calculations I used for a box. I did not account for the displacement of the speakers(2 6.5"). Its alot easier to cut it shorter then lengthen it. Here are the results:
parrallel test indicates a tuning of about 42Hz for the calculated 31Hz port
series test indicates about 39-40Hz tuning frequency
indicates the 36Hz port is tuned to about 40Hz
45-48Hz indicated for 45Hz port
1.1707
1.1529
1.1418
those are the volumes of the box with the ports in place 31, 36, 45Hz accordingly. Test was done by running series resistor and measuring voltage drop across the speaker. lowest voltage drop indicates tuning frequency of the driver(measured within 10Hz-80Hz). I also have bass box pro but these calculations were done with win isd the non beta I believe. As stated its merely a starting point and you would adjust according to your measurements.
Re: Re: Re: pioneer sub 4 home use. what enclosure??
Well if it's intended for SQ purposes then I would would personally be going with about 3 cubes moderately stuffed with polyfill and sealed up tight. The sealed box of 3 cubes will only be about 2dB down at 20Hz compared to the much bugger ported version. The ported box will have a bit more output at 25-35Hz, but with room gain and such, I think the sealed box will have much more natural sounding low-end roll-off. Just my thoughts...
Noidster
felzi said:
Well if it's intended for SQ purposes then I would would personally be going with about 3 cubes moderately stuffed with polyfill and sealed up tight. The sealed box of 3 cubes will only be about 2dB down at 20Hz compared to the much bugger ported version. The ported box will have a bit more output at 25-35Hz, but with room gain and such, I think the sealed box will have much more natural sounding low-end roll-off. Just my thoughts...
Noidster
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