I Need some sub ideas...

[eRiCdWoNg]

I'm planning to use a subwoofer with these parameters. I may use one, two or three subs. It is a 10" single voice coil. Anyway the T/S is:

Fs 25.5 hz
Re 3.21
Qms 5.15
Qes .33
Qts .31
VAS (L) 54.79
Mms (g) 136.41
Cms 285
BL 14.5
SPL 86 dB
MMd 132.50
Sd 363.05 cm^2



I see the F/S is kind of low so I should be able to make a sub that can play fairly low.

(I'm at work right now, so I cant model it but I thought I'd put it here).

 

[m4dm4n]

How large is the room you gonna use it in ? ex. 4.4 x 5m ?

what are you going to use it for? HT or music ?

 

[eRiCdWoNg]

17.5 ft x 13.5 ft x 8 ft (approx 6 m x 4m x 3 m)

Will be with music and movies. Looking for tight accurate, low but loud bass. Right now I'm using a Klipsch RW-12 and I change between that and a DIY 12" 6 foot tall sonotube sub I built. Amplifier power is not an issue.

I should mention this is going to be used with either a Polk LSi system of a Magnepan system. I cant really make 2 dipoles and put them on either side (only 3 drivers available) and the setup of the room doesnt allow me to..

 

[m4dm4n]

Making sub for both HT and music is not easy.

I believe this gives some extension AND loud low bass


This configs:
32L vented @ 25hz using 1st 10" in each box
vent 6,5cm diam X 44,88cm (flared ends)

or one big box 96L @ 25hz using 3st 10"
vents = 6,5cm diam X 44,88cm (flared ends) * 3

IF possible make the ports larger.
_________________________________________
Groupdelay :
23ms @ 20hz
20ms @ 25hz
<16.5ms @ 30hz
_________________________________________
your drivers should give you 112dB @ 20hz in your room, when sending in 200w in each 10" and using 11mm of excursion at 20hz.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Anyone else got any ideas ?
// Da9L

 

[paulspencer]

Is there any particular reason why you are using what appears to be an unknown driver? And 1 - 3 of them? This suggests you are pretty unsure about how much output you want.

Larger drivers typically give you more bang for buck. A 10" can have to work quite hard to get a moderate output level. A 12" driver doesn't cost much more, and a 15" driver doesn't cost much more (certainly cheaper than making up output with 3 subs), although 15" subs tend to get large unless you put them in a sealed box.

Also you did not indicate xmax, without which it's not possible to know what output level you can achieve.

 

[eRiCdWoNg]

Is there any particular reason why you are using what appears to be an unknown driver? And 1 - 3 of them? This suggests you are pretty unsure about how much output you want.

Larger drivers typically give you more bang for buck. A 10" can have to work quite hard to get a moderate output level. A 12" driver doesn't cost much more, and a 15" driver doesn't cost much more (certainly cheaper than making up output with 3 subs), although 15" subs tend to get large unless you put them in a sealed box.

Also you did not indicate xmax, without which it's not possible to know what output level you can achieve.

Lets just say I ran across the 3 of these at a very cheap price. So I plan to have some fun. No I dont know the x-max unfortunately. If it blows, it blows.

 

[paulspencer]

ok if you have them already then you might as well work with them. What brand are they? Where did you get them? Perhaps there is some info that can be hunted. xmax definately does help

Do you have the air gap height and voice coil height? This can determine xmax

Do you have pics of the drivers?

M4's sims look about right. Vented is probably the way to go with a rumble filter for movies.

1) I would go with 3 small vented subs as this is the most flexible. You can stack them or you can distribute them around the room to get the smoothest response. You could make them downfiring "coffee table" subs either side of the couch - the direct field option - less room mode problems.

2) Corner column sub - tall and as slim as possible to make it as unobtrusive as possible. Mount one driver downfiring and the other two facing each other (push pull - to cancel vibration transfer).

3) Try a horn design - fun project you might find you like - you give up some extension but gain output and slam; most of the "fun" in HT occurs at a level you can achieve with a not too crazy big horn.

4) Dice subwoofer - a novel sub idea (although it might not be the most accurate) - add 3 passive radiators to a cube with 3 drivers - sit the sub on one of the corners, which needs to be made flat so it will sit there; then do this to all the corners; be sure that the passives have more excursion than the drivers and this design can get a lot of bass out of a small box. You can choose to face either the passive radiators or the drivers up, as 3 would tend to be more visible than the other 3 faces at a time.

*** Downfiring - check first that the driver is suitable - refer Adire technical section

 

[eRiCdWoNg]

I may try to mimic Martin Logan's triple 10" http://www.martinlogan.com/descent_speaker.html


I'm also thinking about using some passive radiators since I've never done so before.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-496

Or later on trying the suggested horn loaded unit with 3 woofers.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[paulspencer]

Just be aware that putting them all in one box limits flexibility - they may sound better placed in different locations as they will excite different modes, and this can give you a smoother response.

Also with the passives, those have a fairly limited xmax. If the passive doesn't have sufficient excursion, then it can limit the drivers. Those are *probably* enough, but be aware that 10mm isn't much for a passive radiator.